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Travelers have
marvelled at Egypt’s archaeological wonders for centuries, ever
since the Ancient Greeks visited the pyramids. Today, the ancient
wonders attract millions of tourists each year to the pyramids,
temples, mosques and great monuments of the Nile Valley, as well as
the stunning diving resorts of the Red Sea.
Cairo
Known as the greatest city in the Islamic world, Cairo’s ancient
monuments and medieval customs thrive in a cosmopolitan, modern city.
A blend of Arab, African and European influences, Africa’s largest
city has a population of at least 18 million. Situated on the Nile,
the city is polluted and overcrowded, and getting around poses many
challenges, although it has greatly improved with the ever-expanding
underground Metro system.
In Islamic (or Medieval) Cairo, narrow congested streets are filled
with donkey carts, spice traders and imposing mosques. A central
landmark is Midan Hussain, a large open square with tea houses
around the perimeter, and dominated by the sacred Mosque of Sayyidna
Al-Hussain. Adjacent is the famous Khan-el Khalili, one of the world’s
largest bazaars, pulsing with commerce and crammed with spices,
coppersmiths, perfume and trinkets. Bargaining has been a way of
life in these alleyways since the late 14th century and it is easy
to get taken in by silver-tongued salesmen. Here, Fishawi’s tea
house has been in business for over 200 years, and is still a great
people-watching venue.
Nearby is Al-Azhar
Mosque, containing the oldest university in the world (AD 970). The
pre-Ottoman Madrassa and Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri, has Sufi dancing,
and opposite is Wakala of Al-Ghouri, an attractively preserved
cultural center. Exhibits in the Museum of Islamic Art bring Islamic
Cairo to life, with arts, ceramics, mosaics and calligraphy.
The Citadel was home to Egypt’s rulers for 700 years; an imposing
medieval fortress offering sweeping views of the city. Within it is
the Midan Salah al-Din with the unmissable Sultan Hassan and Rifai
Mosques. The Mohammad Ali Mosque has classic Ottoman minarets and
interior. Within the Citadel, other attractions include the Military
National Museum, Al-Gawhara Palace and Museum and the National
Police Museum.
City of the Dead (Northern Cemetery) is a Mamluk necropolis with
hundreds of thousands of tombs dating from the 12th century. Many
thousands more live here in something resembling a shanty town
amongst the ornate mausoleums.
Sharia Talat Harb street and Midan Tahrir (Liberation Square) are
typical of the more modern, commercial center of Cairo – filled with
concrete and cars, and containing countless hotels, restaurants,
office blocks and museums. Here is one of the country’s greatest
attractions; the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities housing over 130,000
exhibits, including Pharaonic and Byzantine art and sculpture, the
Mummy Room and the celebrated Tutankhamun exhibition.
Behind the museum, bridges cross the Nile, and riverside walks along
the corniche bring some relief from traffic. Here, river taxis
travel to local docks, and feluccas (sail boats) are
available for private trips.
The south is home to the Coptic Orthodox Christians, forming 10 per
cent of the population. Originally a Roman fortress town called
Babylon, it was greatly significant to early Christians. Here, the
Coptic Museum has exhibits from AD 300 to AD 1000, in the world’s
greatest collection of Coptic art. The Hanging Church, Monastery of
St George and the churches of St Sergius and St Barbara are all in
the same area. The Ben Ezra Synagogue is one of the oldest in Egypt,
and represents the remains of the Jewish community.
The small island of Gezira is a modern upmarket area with the Opera
House (a US$30 million arts complex) containing the Museum of Modern
Art, and the Cairo Tower with great city views. The adjacent
neighborhood of Zamalek contains elegant town houses and embassies.
On the southwest outskirts of the city is Giza with Cairo Zoo and
the University. But Cairo is most famous for the Great Pyramids,
Egypt’s most visited monuments. Of the three main pyramids (Cheops,
Chephren and Mycerinus), the largest is 137m (449ft) high and
contains some three million blocks of stone. Exploring the interiors
is possible via labyrinthine tunnels and staircases. Adjacent is the
bewitching Sphinx, as named by the ancient Greeks, with the head of
a woman and body of a lion. Erosion was partly rectified by
restoration, which finished in 1998. Early morning and late
afternoon are a little less crowded, and every evening there are
son et lumière - extravagant light shows telling the story of
ancient Egypt. Camels, horses and donkeys can be hired to explore
the site.
Elsewhere
There are more ancient tombs and pyramids outside the city - more
difficult to get to but much less crowded. There are remains of the
Old Kingdom’s capital Memphis; the necropolis at Saqqara, with the
Step Pyramid older than those at Giza, with well-preserved wall
reliefs and royal tombs. Dahshur has only been open to foreigners
since 1996, and is famous for its Bent Pyramid and a huge field of
royal tombs.
In contrast to ancient sights, the Camel Market (Souq al-Gamaal), is
held every morning at Birqash, around 35km (21 miles) from the city,
located on the edge of the Western Desert. Hundreds of camels are
sold daily, most having been brought from Sudan.
Oases
Egypt’s six oases can provide relief from cities. All have
accommodation and can be accessed by public transport. The desert
forms 94 per cent of the country’s area, yet only 1 per cent of the
population lives in it. The largest and most developed oasis is
Kharga, with a Berber community, temples and museums. Dhakla Oasis
has hot springs, and camel rides over the sand dunes. The nearby
village of Bashandi sells handicrafts made by local girls. The
smallest is Farafra, an ancient fort town; Bahariyya is made up of
several small villages, famed for its olives and dates. Al-Faiyum
Oasis is 100km (60 miles) southwest of Cairo, and the area contains
small pyramids, the old city of Karanis, and temples. Siwa is the
furthest west and remote, but the most picturesque and idyllic. The
community is traditional and Berber-speaking.
The Nile
Many tour operators offer Nile cruises, usually between Luxor and
Aswan, and generally lasting around five days. It is also possible
to get a cruise to Minia (a charming town with Roman, Greek and
Pharaonic ruins, including the Beni Hassan archaeological area) and/or
through to Cairo. Felucca trips offer the same route – with
more basic facilities. For further information, see the
Activities section.
Luxor
Once the ancient city of Thebes and powerhouse of upper Egypt, Luxor
has grown into a large town, awash with hotels, restaurants and
souvenir shops, with most of its economy coming from tourism.
A highlight is the Karnak Temple, covering an immense 100 acres
(40.5 hectares). Of the three temple enclosures, the grandest is the
Precinct of Amun, the main place of worship. The Great Hypostyle
Hall is 6000 sq m (64,584 sq ft) and filled with immense stone
pillars. The whole site has colossal statues, reliefs, obelisks and
halls and, of course, the Avenue of the Sphinxes. There are nightly
son et lumière shows.
Along the riverbank, Luxor Temple is guarded by a huge statue of
Ramses II, and although a fraction of the area of Karnak, it also
contains countless columns, statues and sphinxes. A pleasant walk
north along the corniche brings you to the Luxor Museum where a
small, interesting collection of relics from the Theban Temples and
Necropolis can be viewed. The recently opened Mummification Museum
has exhibits of human, reptile and bird mummies, as well as
explanations of how they are made.
On the West Bank of the Nile is the vast Theban Necropolis,
containing some of the world’s finest tombs: the Valley of the Kings;
Valley of the Queens; and Tombs of the Nobles. Highlights include
the Tomb of Tutankhamun; Ramses II; and the Tomb of Nefertari,
reputed to be the country’s finest, which is newly restored and
allows only 150 visitors a day for 10 minutes. Nearby is Deir el-Bahri
(Northern Monastery), a picturesque temple set amidst the
amphitheater of the Theban Hills.
Along the Nile, felucca owners tout for custom, and it is possible
to hire one for a brief sunset cruise to Banana Island, or even to
organize a trip upriver to Aswan. Hot-air balloon trips are also
available, offering the best views of Luxor.
Around Luxor Temple, shopping is dominated by tourist bazaars with
enthusiastic salesmen. The more traditional souk, with
household goods, spices and clothes, is on Sharia el-Birka. Cafes
and stalls sell hot food, and there are rooftop terraces overlooking
the river. A livestock market is held every Tuesday morning at El-Hebel,
a village 4km (2.4 miles) from Luxor.
Aswan
A beautiful winter resort, relaxing Aswan is the southernmost city
in the country; the gateway to Africa, and steeped in Nubian culture.
Although the sights are not the country’s finest, the town’s
riverside location is picturesque and peaceful. It has a busy
tourism scene although it is less aggressive than Luxor.
The corniche provides attractive riverside walks, and a stop-off for
many cruise ships. In the evenings, floating restaurants provide a
lively gathering place, and the world-famous folkloric dance troupe
performs nightly during winter months at the Cultural Center.
Southernmost is the Old Cataract Hotel (famous as the location of
the film ‘Death on the Nile’). Sharia el-Souq is the atmospheric
market stretching for streets, with spices, food and clothes, as
well as predictable tourist souvenirs.
Elephantine Island is easily accessible by river taxi. Formerly
Egypt’s frontier town, recent excavations of this ancient site have
revealed temples and a fortress. Aswan Museum contains exhibits
found in Nubia and Aswan. The Nilometer on the south of the island,
dating back to Pharaonic times, was used to measure the height of
the Nile.
Further south is the tiny Island of Plants, presented to Lord
Horatio Kitchener in the 1890s in recognition of his military
services. Importing exotic flowers and plants from India and
Malaysia, he created a beautiful botanical garden, open daily to the
public, attracting a wide variety of birds.
On the West Bank of the Nile lies the Monastery of St Simeon, which
resembles a fortress. Nearby is the domed granite and sandstone
Mausoleum of Aga Khan.
Beyond Aswan
Outside the city are the Aswan Dam, built by the British at the
beginning of the century, and the Temple of Philae, on the Island of
Philae. The Temple is one of Egypt’s most famous attractions, and
after being under threat from flooding from the High Dam, UNESCO
moved it stone by stone to a higher point on the island.
Further afield is Abu Simbel, the magnificent Sun Temple of Ramses
II, also rescued from flooding by UNESCO. Ramses had four gigantic
statues of himself built in order to intimidate travelers entering
Egypt from Africa, especially the Nubians.
Kom Ombo, 30km (18 miles) north of Aswan, is a largely Nubian
settlement, known for its Temple of Haroeris and Sobek. Nearby is
the Darow Camel Market, held every Tuesday morning and mainly
frequented by tribesmen from the northern Sudanese deserts.
Edfu is famed for the largest and best preserved Pharaoronic Temple
in Egypt, the Temple of Horus. It is a favored starting/stopping
point for felucca trips to and from Luxor.
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Sphinx Great
Pyaramid - Egypt |
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Alexandria
The Northern Coast is dominated by Alexandria, conquered and
designed by Alexander the Great. More Mediterranean than Arabic, it
was always considered affluent and liberal, and still attracts
wealthy Cairenes as a summer retreat. Egypt’s second city is less
chaotic than Cairo, and famed for its numerous Hellenistic and Roman
relics from the age when it was the cultural capital of Europe.
The newly constructed Bibliotheka Alexandria, costing over US$300m,
is the greatest library in the ancient world and a major research
center for scholars. Relics from the third century BC are exhibited
in the Graeco-Roman Museum, and there is a recently excavated Roman
Amphitheater. Fort Qait Bey is a 15th-century fort built on the
foundations of the Pharos Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of
the World. The modern Mosque of Abu al-Abbas Mursi dominates the
main square on Sharia Tatwig, and other places of interest include
the Museum of Fine Arts, and Montazah Palace with attractive gardens,
often the summer venue of theater performances.
Swimming and diving are popular, although beaches tend to be
overcrowded in summer. Ma’amoura is a more liberal and Westernised
beach, and further out of the city Agami and Hannoville are cleaner
and less crowded. Diving is possible on Montazah beach.
Beyond Alexandria
The ancient city of Rosetta, 65km (39 miles) away from Alexandria,
is famed for being where the Rosetta Stone was discovered (now
housed in the British Museum) and has attractive Ottoman, ‘Delta
Style’ architecture.
El Alamein is a small coastal village 100km (60 miles) west of
Alexandria and an easy day trip. Famous as the scene of a decisive
Allied victory, which determined the fate of Egypt and Britain’s
Empire, there is a War Museum, Cemetery and Memorial to the soldiers
who died in battle.
Further west is the coastal resort of Mersa Matrouh, which has a
good beach, although it can be overcrowded in summer.
Sinai & The Red Sea Coast
A great example of modern engineering, the Suez Canal links the Red
Sea with the Mediterranean. Completed in 1869, it has repeatedly
been the cause of dispute, most recently when blocked during the
1967 war with Israel. Port Said is the main city. Anyone traveling
to Sinai by road would cross the Suez on a small shuttle boat, or
under the tunnel.
The Red Sea Coast sits strategically between Africa and Asia, rich
in mineral wealth and revered as the place of miracles and prophets
in Judaism, Islam and Christianity. God is said to have appeared to
Moses here, and thought to have delivered the Israelites from the
Egyptian army into the Red Sea. These days, the region is revered
for its spectacular diving resorts, beaches, stunning coastline and
vast deserts. This area has some of the best diving and snorkeling
in the world, and has a more liberal atmosphere than the rest of
Egypt.
The coastline attracts tourists ranging from top-class package deals,
to backpackers in campsites: Sharm el-Sheikh is a large resort, and
is best for diving. Na’ama Bay is much better developed and upmarket,
with private beaches. A few kilometers north is Shark Bay, a quieter
resort camp. The beaches at Dahab are spectacularly framed by jagged
mountains. Holiday villages within a Bedouin settlement are close
by. Nuweiba is a port city, with a plethora of resorts, and is
famous for Olin the dolphin, with which people can pay to swim.
Local Bedouins offer jeep safaris into the interior. Between here
and Taba, there are many small, quiet resorts that threaten to be
overshadowed by a huge new tourist development, Taba Heights. On the
west of the Red Sea Coast, the biggest diving resort is Hurghada,
once a fishing village and now a major commercial tourist center.
Ras Muhammed is the southernmost point on the peninsula, fringed
with lagoons and reefs, and is now a National Park.
Little is accessible in Sinai’s interior, a barren area with rocks
and sands, and the best way to explore this is by treks or safari by
camel or jeep. One of the highlights is St Catherine’s Monastery,
now home to Greek Orthodox monks. St Catherine was the legendary
martyr of Alexandria, who was tortured and beheaded for her
Christianity. It has been a place of pilgrimage since the 4th
century. Within the monastery is the ‘burning bush’ from which God
is said to have appeared to speak to Moses. Mount Sinai, revered as
the site of God’s revelation of the Ten Commandments, is a craggy
and sheer-faced mount of grey and red, dramatic and steep. Care
should be taken when ascending. Other places to visit in this region
include Oyun Musa (‘Springs of Moses’), Qalat al-Gindi, an 800-year-old
fortress, and Hammam Fara’un’s hot springs and isolated beach. |