Geography
Brazil covers almost half of the South American continent and it is
bordered to the north, west and south by all South American countries
except Chile and Ecuador; to the east is the Atlantic. The country is
topographically quite flat and at no point do the highlands exceed 3000m
(10,000ft). Over 60 per cent of the country is a plateau; the remainder
consists of plains.
The River Plate Basin (the confluence of
the Paraná and Uruguay rivers, both of which have their sources in
Brazil) in the far south is more varied, higher and less heavily
forested. North of the Amazon are the Guiana Highlands, partly forested,
partly stony desert. The Brazilian Highlands of the interior, between
the Amazon and the rivers of the south, form a vast tableland, the Mato
Grosso, from which rise mountains in the southwest that form a steep
protective barrier from the coast called the Great Escarpment, breached
by deeply cut river beds. The population is concentrated in the
southeastern states of Minas Gerais, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. The
city of São Paulo has a population of over 10 million, while over 5.5
million people live in the city of Rio de Janeiro.
The International Gateways to
Brazil
Rio de Janeiro
Known as the cidade maravilhosa (the marvelous city), Rio has one
of the most beautiful settings in the world. The city’s spectacular
harbor is dominated by the famous rocky outcrop, Pão de Açúcar (Sugar
Loaf), and, further up, the Corcovado (Hunchback) peak, rising 709m
(2326ft) above the Baía de Guanabara and providing the focal point for
the classic Rio skyline. The Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer)
statue stands on top of Corcovado. Pão de Açúcar can be reached
by two cable cars ascending
396m (1300ft) above Rio and the Baía de Guanabara (one leaves
approximately every 30 minutes). Flocks of tourists arriving by tour
buses can sometimes spoil the view, so visitors should avoid the busiest
times (between 1000-1100 and 1400-1500). The Corcovado peak is located
within the Parque Nacional da Tijuca, and is accessible by cog train (leaving
from the Rua Cosme Velho). From the top there are magnificent views of
Rio. Taxis also take visitors up to the peak and driving there will take
up to an hour. Rio’s other landmarks are its numerous beaches, most
notably the infamous Copacabana and Ipanema. Beach life is a ritual in
Brazil and different beach sections reflect different ways of life and
fashions. The Girl from Ipanema beach is particularly popular with young
people and is located at Posto Nine in Ipanema. Owing to strong waves
and undertows, swimming off Ipanema can be dangerous. Rio’s other main
beaches include Arpoador, Barra da Tijuca, Botafogo, Flamengo, Leblon,
Leme, Pepino and Vidigal.
Rio has many interesting museums, including the Museu Histórico
Nacional, located in the São Tiago Fortress. The Museu de Arte Moderna
do Rio de Janeiro contains Brazil’s most important collection of modern
art. The Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Niterói, designed by famous
architect Oscar Niemeyer and overlooking Boa Viagem beach, showcases
contemporary Brazilian art. The Museu do Folclore Edison Carneiro
displays folk art and art naif. The Museu do Índio contains some 14,000
objects made by Brazilian Indians and is one of the nation’s most
important Indian heritage museums. The Museu da República is set in the
well-restored Palácio do Catete and reveals a fascinating insight into
Brazilian history.
São Paulo
The view from the top of São Paulo’s tallest building, the Edificio
Italiano reveals South America’s largest city (over 10 million
inhabitants) and Brazil’s financial, commercial and industrial heartland.
Famed throughout the continent for its abundant nightlife and shopping,
São Paulo’s rapidly growing population resides in a sprawling urban maze
characterized by perpetual traffic jams and a chronic lack of space.
While São Paulo’s concrete jungle is a far cry from the color and charm
of other Brazilian cities, there are some cultural attractions on offer,
notably the MASP – Museu de Arte de São Paulo with an internationally
renowned collection of impressionist paintings (with works by Van Gogh
and Degas amongst many others).
The Brazilian Northeast
The Northeast of Brazil is famed for its beautiful beaches and distinct
history and folklore. Known as the ‘Golden Coast’, this region contains
the states of Alagoas, Bahia, Ceará, Maranhão, Paraíba, Pernambuco,
Piauí, Rio Grande do Norte and Sergipe.
Salvador da Bahia
The state capital is split into upper and lower sections. Cidade Alta,
the heart of the old city, is perched at the top of a 50m-high cliff,
linked to Cidade Baixa by steep streets, a funicular railway and the
marvelous Art-Deco Elevador Lacerdo. The majority of Salvador’s museums,
palaces and churches are concentrated within Cidade Alta and thus the
city is ideal for exploring on foot. This UNESCO World Heritage Site
boasts a staggering number of churches, including the impressive Church
of São Francisco and the fascinating Church of Bonfim, where middle-class
matrons rub shoulders with the peasantry as they gather to worship.
However, religion in Bahia is not limited to the established church. The
state’s African legacy extends to candomble, a fusion of African
and Catholic religions. Candomble followers dress in white and
honor hundreds of native deities in terreiros (or cult houses)
all over the city, it is possible to witness ceremonies as some
terreiros accept visitors as long as they dress accordingly and are
respectful.
Salvador has some of the best museums in Brazil and next to the opulent
Catedral Basilica is the Museu Afro-Brasileiro, a fascinating insight
into afro-Brazilian culture, with sections on candomble,
capoeira and Carnaval. Other interesting museums include the
Casa de Jorge Amado, Bahia’s best-known novelist, the Museu da Cidade
and the Museu de Arte Sacra, the latter housed in a 17th-century convent.
Avid shoppers should head for the Mercado Modelo for a wide variety of
goods including many examples of local handicrafts. The local cuisine (comida
bahiana) is among the best in Brazil, focusing on rich African
flavors.
Salvador is also renowned for being the hub of Brazilian music and
Salvador’s central district of Pelourinho is home to numerous bars and
clubs showcasing live music and afoxé (Salvador’s carnival bands).
Elsewhere
Also in Bahia state, the Diamantina National Park is also well worth a
visit; it contains several underground lakes (such as Lago Azul) and
spectacular waterfalls (such as Veu da Noiva). The towns of Ilhéus and
Aracaju with their ornate churches and colonial architecture are also
worth a visit.
Piauí State contains the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Serra da
Capivara National Park, which contains ancient cave paintings estimated
to be over 25,000 years old.
Alagoas state capital, Maceiô, is deservedly proud of its fantastic
beaches, reputedly the finest in all of Brazil.
Pernambuco state capital, Recife, has been the beneficiary of sizeable
investment to promote tourism. However despite being one of the most
visited cities in the Brazilian Northeast, it still suffers from a poor
infrastructure and the influx of rich, foreign tourists has made begging
and street crime a real problem in the city. A world away is the nearby
historical town of Olinda, infamous for its Carnaval celebrations
and one of Brazil’s eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Rio Grande do Norte’s state capital, Natal, is divided between the
commercial section of the city and its beach suburbs – clean, safe and
good for surfing. Natal has several large markets and is famous for its
cotton and leather handicrafts.
Ceara’s capital, Fortaleza, sprawls lazily along a spectacular coastline.
Blessed with excellent restaurants and an abundance of attractions for
the visitor, the city is also a great place to organize a trip to
Jericocoara. Just four hours by car, this heavenly village is nestled
between a dazzling white sand-dune desert and a balmy turquoise sea.
The Interior
Few tourists venture far from Brazil’s spectacular beaches but a trip
into the interior reveals a different Brazil, one with a great deal to
offer the visitor.
Minas Gerais
As its name suggests, this was so called after the abundant gold and
diamond mines that transformed the state into a treasure trove of gold
and also of baroque art. During the 18th century, the stream of riches
from this region was so relentless that the Portuguese lacked sufficient
ships to transport it to Europe. Almost all the gold that gilded altars
in cathedrals and churches from as far north as Olinda came from Minas.
In towns such as Ouro Preto, Tiradentes, Sabará and Mariana, this tidal
wave of wealth resulted in the construction of hundreds of churches and
civic buildings in lavish baroque style. All of the cidades históricas
are immaculately preserved examples of Brazil’s colonial heritage and
are accessible by road from the state capital Belo Horizonte. This
region’s highlight for art-lovers is Aleijadinho’s interpretation of
‘The Passion’ at the Basilica de Bom Jesus de Matosinhos. Set in gardens
that gently slope towards Matosinhos town, the work is positioned in six
small domed chapels filled with life-size statues that dramatize the
scenes. All of the figures, including the 12 magnificent soapstone
statues of prophets from the Old Testament, are more poignant for being
sculpted by an artist almost completely disabled by the advanced stages
of leprosy and who, therefore, knew it to be his final work.
Elsewhere
Brasília, the country’s capital, was built on land originally covered by
cerrado (sub-tropical forest) and is renowned for its futuristic
architecture, most notable in the Praça dos Três Poderes, Palácio do
Planalto and the National Congress. Attracting far fewer visitors than
the huge cities of Rio and São Paulo or the tropical paradise of the
Northeast, Brasília has little to offer the visitor interested in
Brazilian history and culture. However, it is Brazil’s future and it is
up to the individual to decide whether it is as attractive as Brazil’s
colorful past.
Mato Grosso is the gateway to the Pantanal, a vast area of wetlands
approximately half the size of France and Brazil’s largest ecological
reserve. Flooded by the Rio Paraguai during the wet season (October to
March), this region is the best place in Brazil to see wildlife. However,
the region is sparsely populated, with few towns or villages and only
one major road (the ‘Transpantaneira’). Therefore, in order to get the
most out of the area, wildlife enthusiasts should choose an organized
tour with experienced guides.
The South
Porto Alegre
In the rich southern state of Rio Grande do Sul, this city caters for
thousands of tourists each year, the majority of whom come from nearby
Argentina. The capital has excellent museums, art galleries and
restaurants to entertain the visitor, as well as delightful surrounding
countryside. To the west, travelers can visit the ruins of the 300-year-old
Jesuit missions, abandoned when the Jesuits were expelled from Spain.
One of the most fascinating is Saõ Miguel das Missões, yet another
UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 58km (36 miles) from the town of
Santo Angelo (a good starting point for visiting the missions). The most
popular beaches in this area are the Tramandai and Torres,
respectively 126km (78 miles) and 209km (130 miles) from Pôrto Alegre.
In addition, the region’s Gramado and Canela Mountains provide ample
opportunities for walking and trekking.
Elsewhere
The state of Santa Catarina, with its island capital of Florianópolis,
has superb beaches at Laguna, Itapena and Camburiu. The island is famous
for its excellent surfing and watersports facilities are particularly
good in the area. Further inland Blumenau and Joinville are both living
testaments to the last century’s massive influx of German immigration
with both towns constructed in predominantly German architecture.
Germanic culture is still vibrant in small towns like Pomerode (near
Blumenau) where German remains the lingua franca with Portuguese only
used in government offices. Blumenau’s annual three-week Oktoberfest
is not to be missed.
Paraná is a prime coffee-producing state with a bright modern capital,
Curitiba, whose public transport system could be the envy of European
capitals like London or Paris. Efficient trams run throughout the city
and travelers are encased in glass tunnels that protect them from the
elements as they wait for the next tram. However, Curitiba is relatively
compact and (weather permitting) easy to explore on foot with most areas
of interest found in the historic center. Curitiba is famous for its
parks, two of which are worth seeking out; visitors will be fascinated
by the riot of vivid plumage in the aviaries of the Passeio Público,
where several species of local birds are kept. A fascinating insight
into frontier life and the endeavours of countless European immigrants,
who moved here during the last 150 years, is the Museu de Imigração
Polenesa in the center of Bosque João Paulo. The museum’s best exhibits
are the log cabins, built by Polish immigrants in the 1880s and
relocated here over 100 years later.
The train journey between Curitiba and Paranaguá is a spectacular
journey through dense jungle, its route strewn with memorials for the
many workers who perished from tropical diseases as they constructed the
tracks. Accessible by road or air from Curitiba are the world-famous
Iguazu Falls, a spectacular set of 70m waterfalls, including the
impressive Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat). Standing near the
waterfalls is a humbling experience. The deafening roar of 5000 cubic
meters of water cascading down each second accompanies a perpetual (and
in summer temperatures, welcoming) mist that envelopes visitors. The
area encompasses two national parks, each boasting hundreds of species
of plant and animal life, and spans the borders of two countries,
Argentina and Brazil, divided by the River Paraná. For a good view of
the entire set of falls, visit the Brazilian side of the Park in Foz de
Iguazu and photograph the spectacle. To get close enough to stare into
the watery abyss, visit the Argentine side. Unfortunately, there is no
access to Brazil from the Argentine Park or vice versa, so visitors
wishing to see both parks must travel overland to the border crossing,
about 10km south. Due to Foz de Iguazu’s proximity to both the Argentine
and Paraguayan borders, it is possible to visit both countries in a day
trip from Foz.
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The Northern Interior and Amazon
Almost entirely covered with dense rainforest, Brazil’s northern
interior is split into the vast regions of Amazonas, Pará, Acre and
Rondônia. These massive federal states easily outstrip the land
resources of many European countries and, combined, cover over 3,400,000
sq km (1,300,000 sq miles) of endless jungle filled with countless
species of life.
Rondônia and Acre
Created in 1991 Rondônia has suffered extensive deforestation. There are
still natural wonders hidden away such as the stunning Teotonio and
Santo Antônio Falls, accessible from capital Porto Velho. Other
attractions include river trips to the Forte Principe de Beira or to
Bolivia, where air taxis operate to La Paz from Guayaramerin.
Territorially annexed from Bolivia in the early 20th century, Acre is a
state of contrasts with a funky capital in Rio Branco, a thriving market
and university town on the river. Because of its student population, Rio
Branco has good nightlife and its geographical position as a trading
post has made the town an important handicrafts center.
Amazonas
The state capital, Manaus, was transformed by the 19th-century rubber
boom and nowhere is this more evident than in the Teatro Amazonas, built
in 1896 in the elaborate style of the Italian Renaissance. In front of
the theater, a marble square is designed to reflect the four continents
represented by four great ships. Along Avenida Sete de Setembro are
numerous museums worth a visit; the Museo do Indio, Museo de Amazonas
and the marvelous colonial mansion that houses the Centro Cultural de
Palacio Rio Negro, an extensive archive of naturalist Alexandre
Ferreira. The city is easy to navigate and offers the visitor both fine
restaurants and tax-free bargains in the free trade zone. As a major
port for river-traffic with arrivals and departures to Colombia, Peru
and Venezuela, Manaus is an excellent starting point for river trips and
guided tours into the rainforest. 25 million years ago, the volcanic
activity that created the Andes blocked the Amazon’s path to the Pacific,
sending it on the 6400km journey to the Atlantic and thus creating the
vast Amazon basin. Upriver from Manaus, the rivers Amazon and Negro meet
but their waters (yellow and black respectively) run parallel for many
miles in different-colored channels.
Para and Amapa
The Eastern Amazon region is split between the states of Para and Amapa.
Para’s state capital Belem was founded in 1616. Situated at the Atlantic
end of the Amazon estuary at the mouth of the Rio Tocantins, Belem is a
thriving port city with an exquisite historical center, dotted with
splendid churches and elegant parks. The Goeldi Museum boasts the
largest collection of tropical plants in the world. The docks are the
location of the early-morning Ver O Peso (See the Weight) market, which
was originally a slave market but still exists these days although the
stalls now mostly sell fruit and produce.
Activities
Jungle treks
The Amazon rainforest is the world’s largest biological reserve. It
contains one-third of all living species on the earth and is crossed by
10 of the world’s 20 largest rivers, including the River Amazon (the
largest river in the world). The usual base for trips to the Amazon is
the city of Manaus, where numerous tour operators can arrange anything
from standard day trips to month-long expeditions to more remote areas.
It is best to hire a local guide (trips without guides are only allowed
on certain trails). During the rainy season (February to April),
the flooded rainforest can be
explored by boat or canoe. Several jungle lodges and hotels offer
ecotourism packages, though many of these tend to be expensive. River
cruises to the so-called ‘wedding of the waters’, where the clear waters
of the Rio Negro meet the muddy Amazon, are popular. For information on
wildlife, see the Where to Go section.
Hiking and climbing
The best time for hiking and climbing is from April to October. Rio de
Janeiro is the center of Brazilian rock climbing: over 300 climbs can be
reached within 40 minutes from the city center. There are many great
hiking trails in the national parks and along the coastline. The
Iguaçu Falls on the Parana River near the junction of Brazil,
Argentina and Paraguay is one of the world’s greatest waterfalls, with
275 cataracts. Boat trips to the falls from Rio are available and take
two days. Good aerial views can be enjoyed from a helicopter tour of the
falls that can be booked on location.
Watersports
Brazil is one of the world’s top surfing destinations. The best places
to surf in Brazil include Joaquina Beach (near Florianópolis in
Santa Catarina state, which hosts the annual Brazilian surfing
championships); Saquarema (in Rio state); Búzios (a chic
resort area on the Cabio Frio Peninsula); Itacoatiara; and a
string of beaches near Rio de Janeiro. There are hundreds of beaches
along the coastline suitable for many types of watersports, some of the
best being at Buzios; Angra (on the Costa Verde, which is
fairly uncrowded, with access to hundreds of offshore islands);
Fortaleza; Niteroi (near Rio, with three good beaches); and
Itamaraca Island (north of Recife). Diving can be practiced in
Fernando de Noronha (a small archipelago off Brazil’s north eastern
coast in Pernambuco state, where a strict environmental protection
program allows a maximum of 420 visitors at a time); Angra dos Reis
(a seaside village in Rio de Janeiro state, part of Ilha Grande Bay,
with possible diving trips to 300 surrounding islands); Bonito (located
in the fairly untouched and undeveloped Panatal region); Recife (the
‘birthplace’ of Brazil, offering excellent diving in the vicinity); and
Parcel Manoel Luís. Diving clubs are located all along the
coastline. For further information, contact the Brazilian Tourist Board
(see above).
Golf
Rio de Janeiro’s spectacular location makes for a number of dazzling
golf courses. The Gávea Golf & Country Club, located beneath the
massive Gávea rock and next to São Conrado beach, has an 18-hole course;
non-members are not allowed at Itanhangá Golf Club has a 9- and
an 18-hole course, located near Barra da Tijuca beach.
Carnaval and music
four days in the South, to two weeks in northern cities such as Salvador
and Recife. Brazilians themselves remark that the Recife and Olinda
celebrations are the most distinctive but it is cities like Rio or
Salvador that receive the most foreign visitors. However in every town
and village in Brazil, Carnaval is a time to celebrate and the visitor
will see processions and blocos every region during Carnaval
time.
Accommodation is traditionally prepaid in four- or five-day blocks and
overland travel during Carnaval is notoriously difficult, although
always entertaining!
Music: Brazil is the perfect place to sample the samba, bossa nova or
lambada and the major cities, particularly Rio de Janeiro, are full of
cafes with live music and dancing. Gefieiras are samba parlours
where visitors can either watch or join in. In Rio, many gefieiras are
located on the south side. The Copacabana beach, where parties
are staged nearly 24 hours a day, is also a good location for sampling
some Latin American entertainment. An exciting way to experience the
genuine samba is by attending a rehearsal at the escolas de samba
(samba schools), which open their doors to visitors a couple of months
before the beginning of Rio de Janeiro’s carneval. Bandas,
the non-professional equivalent of the samba schools, are also a good
place to practice. Tickets for the carnival go on sale two weeks before
the beginning. The best costumes and most spectacular samba parades can
be seen at the Sambódromo (Sambadrome), a stadium on Rua Marquês
de Sapucaí, where 14 samba schools parade on Carnival Sunday and Monday;
the parades go on for 24 hours and tickets should be bought well in
advance. It is possible for visitors to take part in a parade. One week
of preparation should be allowed and hotels can often make all the
necessary arrangements. During carnival, foreign visitors should be
alert to pickpockets and not carry more money than needed.
Football
A good way to experience the Brazilian Maracana Stadium, the
largest in the world. |