Culinary Sardinia
In Sardinia more people live
to be 100 or older than anywhere else in the world. And as a
scientific study has shown, this longevity is attributable not to
the Sardinian gene pool but rather to the island’s relaxed and
healthy lifestyle. But by no means do Sardinians live like monks.
Indeed, Sardinia is an earthly paradise for people who love fine
food, including fragrant bread fresh out of the oven, delectable
skewered meats roasted over an open pit, spectacularly fresh
seafood, countless varieties of Sardinian Pecorino cheese, not to
mention fresh fruits and vegetables directly from the grower and
of course full-bodied wines.
Sardinian cuisine is famed for its use
of fresh, in-season ingredients from the Mediterranean region. And
what could be better than enjoying a glass of Sardinian red wine
while you wait for your pasta, porchetto or
arragosta and pick out words you understand from the
undercurrent of neighboring conversations. Memorable too are visits
to Sardinia’s cantina sociale where local wines, including
Grappa, are produced and sold.
Among Sardinia’s
many outstanding culinary specialties is sa buttariga (popularly
known as bottarga) which is smoked mullet caviar. This delicacy is
usually served as an appetizer, thinly sliced and marinated in olive
oil. Many Sardinians also eat their spaghetti with the delectable
bottarga.
Sardinia’s best known bread is aptly
named carta di musica (music paper), a dry, light, hearty and
extremely thinly sliced shepherd’s bread composed of rounds of
superimposed crispy layers of dough. When shepherds combine this
delicacy with tomato sauce and egg, it becomes pane frattau.
To make carne a
carraxiu (buried meat), a suckling pig, lamb or calf is laid in a
hole dug in the ground and covered with aromatic myrtle leaves. At
the end of the process, firewood is laid on top, which gradually
cures the meat. A truly succulent delicacy for meat enthusiasts!
Sardinia’s
delicately flavoured sheep’s cheese Pecorino is now exported all
over the world. Authentic Pecorino is made without any anomalous
ingredients such as cow’s milk (instead of sheep’s milk). The most
famed Sardinian cheese is smoked, spicy and sharp Fiore Sardo, which
is aged over a long period.
Sardinia is a place where you can
still have an idyllic vacation and discover wonderful places that
lie off the beaten track. The island, which is elongated in shape,
extends from north to south. The vegetation of Sardinia’s northern
and southern regions varies quite a bit as do the island’s cultural
traditions, and Sardinians have adapted to these differences in
their natural environment. The best known area in Sardinia is Costa
Smeralda with its unique small sandy beaches nestled among many
different types of cliffs that border the coast’s numerous bays.
Portobello, a cluster of lovely villas containing rental apartments,
is typical of the accommodations available in the north of sardinia.
Located on Sardinia’s east coast a
half hour south of Olbia, San Teodoro has reinvented itself. Once a
simple fishing village, it is now a popular resort town. This is
mainly attributable to the nearby beaches, particularly La Cinta
with its superlative three kilometer-long stretch of white sand. Not
far to the south on the SS125 you come upon Nuoro, the capital city
of the eponymous province that extends across the center of Sardinia
from the east to the west coasts. This is the region people head
directly to when they’re interested in discovering Sardinia at its
most genuine. Perdasdefogu is another place where visitors can
discover the real Sardinia. Surrounded by ancient holm-oak trees,
this village is nestled in the Sardinian mountains between the
historic Oligastra and Salto de Quirra regions.
The island’s
topography changes considerably as you travel south. Muravera is set
in a hilly landscape and is bordered by large lagoons where pink
flamingos and many other avian species can often be seen.
Torresalinas, 7 km away, consists of a group of sea-front villas
located on a stretch of Sardinia’s southern coast that lies off the
beaten path. In contrast to Torresalinas, Costa Rei, which is
located further to the south, has become a magnet for tourism but
has lost none of its charm. Located about 50 km south of the island’s
capital city of Cagliari, Costa Rei (“King’s coast”) offers visitors
crystal clear waters that are almost surrealistically aquamarine in
color, and long white sandy beaches. Villagio Rocca Sant' Elmo,
which is nestled in an unspoiled natural area at the tip of Costa
Rei, was built in the 1990s. Here, Vito Sonzogni’s ingenious and
prize winning architecture enables the buildings to blend in
seamlessly with their natural surroundings.
Villasimius is a
picturesque former fishing village. Geremeas is also every
vacationer’s dream of the perfect place to be. A mere 30 km to the
east of the hubbub of Sardinia’s capital city of Caligari, this
resort is located on a section of coastline that is not visible from
the coastal road and offers the loveliest long white sandy beaches
imaginable.
Is Molas is set in
an exquisite landscape consisting of intensely green maquis, pine
forests and lush flowering vegetation including palms and cacti. The
view of the sea, the Pula flatland and the mountains is magnificent.
Cultural Excursions on Sardinia
There are so many
cultural treasures from so many different historical ages in
Sardinia that it’s almost like being in a large open-air museum.
From Bronze Age Nuraghis and Roman and Byzantine excavations to
romantic churches and modern museums, the island offers an
abundance of enriching excursions. Some of these possibilities
include:
Nuraghi Complex
of Su Nuraxi at Barumini
Sardinia’s largest and most significant Nuraghi complex is
situated in the middle of the island at the same elevation as
Oristano. One kilometre away from the small village of Barumini,
Su Nuraxi serves as Sardinia’s prehistoric archaeological
highlight. You can only begin to comprehend the complex’s
magnanimous dimensions when you wander through its narrow
alleyways. The only drawback when visiting Su Nuraxi is that you
must visit it in a group; individual visits are no longer
permitted.
The Roman Ruins
of Tharros and Nora
A visit to the ancient Roman cities of Tharros, on the northern
promontory of the Gulf of Oristano, and Nora, near Pula on the
south coast, are more than worth a visit, and not just to see the
thousand-year-old ruins. Both also overlook beautiful turquoise
waters and dreamy white beaches.
The Church of the
Holy Trinity at Saccargia
The Roman church of Saccargia, one of Europe’s architectural
jewels, is to be found in Sassari amongst the lush plains of
Codrongianus in northern Sardinia. Historical sources date the
church back to the year 1114. Its incomparable façade owes its
majesty to the array of white and black stones, replicating the
style of Tuscan architecture to be found in Pisa, Lucca and
Pistoia. The church’s inner walls of apse were painted with
frescoes in the 13th century.
Citadella dei
Musei in Cagliari
This highly modern museum complex made of glass, concrete and
metal emerges out of Sardinia’s capital as its highest edifice.
Built on top of the former Spanish Citadel, the modern concrete
structure sits on top of medieval supporting walls, thus uniting
past and present. Sardinia’s most valuable and significant
cultural assets are housed within this museum complex. One of the
main attractions is the Museo Archeologico Nationale (the National
Archaeological Museum) although the Citadella of the National
Gallery, the Museum of Siamese Art and a wax figure exhibition are
also well worth a look.
Diving on Sardinia
Sardinia’s underwater
world is just as diverse and varied as its island scenery. Every
year diving fans are lured to Sardinia by its striking coastlines,
translucent water, abundant sunshine, sunken Roman galleys, rugged
rocks and rare shells.
Almost a hundred ship wrecks lie deep under the waters of
Villasimius. Not far away is the marine reservation of Capo
Carbonara, which stretches from Capo Boi to the island of
Serpentara. Despite being a popular diving destination, especially
in the summer months, Sardinia’s underwater world remains
biologically sound. Divers and snorklers are wonderstruck by the
gigantic cowries and multitude of fish, turtles and dolphins to be
found here.
Old ships’ vestiges lay scattered
on the ocean floor of the Capo Spartivento, off the untouched Baia
Chia in Sardinia’s South West. A little bit further out you can
marvel at the swarming fish on two shallow reefs. Not much further
away is Cala Cipolla, seven granite rock reefs habituated by
colourful coral polyps and molluscs at a depth of 25 metres.
In the North-West of
the island around Capo Caccia, an underwater labyrinth of caves
and tunnels with bizarre stalactites and colourful corals, awaits
your exploration.
Diving expeditions to the Archipels
of La Maddalena National Park are organised from Capriccioli on
the Costa Smeralda. This nature protected area is rampant with
reefs and with a seaweed covered sandy sea bed at only 10 metres
in depth, is perfect for beginners and snorklers.
There are countless
other dive sites around Sardinia and many coastal resorts have
competent dive centres where you can do a course, rent equipment
and take guided tours.
Playing Golf on Sardinia
Play golf on Sardinia. The golf
courses in Sardinia belong to the most beautiful in the
mediterranean area. Sardinia’s lush green golf courses lie in
beautiful contrast to the bright blue skies over them. The
stunning scenery which provides the backdrop for Sardinia’s golf
courses will spoil both the most hardened of travelling golfers as
well as fresh faced beginners. And with an array of schools and
driving greens, Sardinia is one of the best places to pick up a
club for the first time.
Two of Sardinia’s golf courses
belong to a particularly high league: Is Molas and Il Pevero.
Is Molas, situated in Santa Margherita di Pula,
makes even the most fastidious of Golf Champions feel welcome. The
unique views of the Roman ruins of Nora and the turquoise ocean
coupled with the impeccably kept lawns makes Is Molas an
unforgettable golfing experience. Adding to the development’s
appeal are also a restaurant, shop, bar, swimming pool, sauna,
massage services, tennis facilities, golf carts and a golf school.
We offer several luxury villas just beside the golf course - moste
with private pool and the most stunning view.
Il Pevero on the
Costa Smeralda in northern Sardinia ensued as the result of an
idea which the Aga Khan had. Upon seeing the two bays of Cala di
Volpe and Volpero, he declared that the space in between them
would be perfect for a golf course. Surrounded by dense vegetation
and bizarre rock formations with breathtaking sea views, this is
definitely one of the world’s most beautiful golf courses. Other
facilities include a pro-shop, restaurant, putting green, electric
carts, swimming pool and bar.
More golfing possibilities include
the 18-hole Club Is Arenas on the west coast, north of Oristano,
as well as the brand new 9-hole course at the Golf Club
Villasimius in the South-East. You can also get your clubs
swinging in Merana, Sassari and San Teodoro.
Enjoy a golf holiday in one of our
villas near the moste beautiful golf courses in Sardinia!
Sailing on Sardinia
Although Sardinia’s
coastline is an extraordinary sailing destination with hundreds of
secluded coves, picture-book beaches and dramatic rock formations,
it remains surprisingly anonymous. Sardinia’s particular pull for
sailors is its coastline’s diversity; from the dunes of the Costa
Verde to the deep emerald coves and dramatic cliffs of Cala Gonone,
no stretch is the same as the next.
The fact that the
wind conditions around Porto Pollo in northern Sardinia are the
most constant means that most sailors are to be found on the Costa
Smeralda. There are two winds here which ensure the perfect
conditions for dynamic sailing; the Sahara wind Chirocco and the
Maestrale, which blows down from the North. The Maestrale mostly
blows along the west coast, a very powerful W to NW wind; while a
S to SE wind prevails on the east coast. If you take on any
sailing foray in Sardinia’s waters you should either be a very
competent sailor yourself or take an experienced skipper with you.
It is also very important to familiarize yourself with the area’s
nautical literature and navigational requirements.
Sardinia’s marinas are an excellent
infrastructure circling the island with a 30 sea mile gap between
each establishment. For more detailed information, you can pick up
a copy of “Beaches and Harbours”, which outlines a comprehensive
list of the island’s 86 marinas. This guide also contains nautical
maps and is available free of charge from ESIT.
Biking on Sardinia
Sardinia’s low-season,
uncongested country roads offer a unique network of winding routes
for the keen biker. Apart from in July and August, when
temperatures can soar, Sardinia’s climate is ideally suited to
bike tours, particularly in spring and autumn. The coastal
flatland is perfect for more easy-going adventures whereas the
island’s hilly interior demands a good portion of endurance and
high levels of fitness. Countless unmarked paths provide an
active playground for those who prefer to cycle off the beaten
track. Please remember to close any gates and fences after you!
For those of you
who want to circumnavigate the entire island, make sure that you
have enough time and energy to tackle the erratic 1000 km up and
down stretch. Despite the fact that the average Italian biker
doesn’t have that many rights on the road, drivers are generally
considerate.
If you don’t want
to bring your own bike with you there are many possibilities to
rent one in most beach resorts. However, should you be planning a
longer tour, it would be wise to bring gear, brake and wheel
replacement parts, as there are few repair shops to be found on
the island.
Transporting your
Bike to Sardinia
For information regarding bike transport on European trains, call
the DB’s (Deutschebahn / German Railway) Bikers Hotline on
0180-5151415. As all bikes must be registered as a package or as
an express good, this can be very expensive. “Bike Buses” serve as
a good alternative, contact: Reisezeit (Guldeinstr.29.80339
Munich, Tel.089/505050), Natours (Untere Eschstr.15, 49179
Ostercappeln, Tel. 05473/92290) or Sausewind (Meeschweg 9, 26127
Oldenburg, Tel. 0441-935650). These buses operate out of several
German cities and allow you and your bike to travel to Livorno for
around EUR 200. Depending on how many other bikers are onboard,
you can take your bike on the ferry for around EUR 20 (sometimes
even free of charge). Similar conditions apply when transporting
your bike on top of the car.
Beaches in Sardinia
Portobello
Located a mere
kilometre from Condominium Portobello is long white sandy Vignola
beach, also a great place for children because the sea here laps
gently at the shore. You also find a beach right in front of your
doorstep.
On the way to
Capo Testa you come upon fabulous and seemingly endless Rena
Maiori beach with its dunes. Even in high season, this beach with
its aquamarine water is almost completely deserted.
Capo Testa is a
spectacular small peninsula located five kilometers west of Santa
Teresa di Gallura that is renowned for its strange rock formations.
Visitors are drawn here not by long sandy beaches but rather by a
rocky landscape that has been carved out by the sea. At the tip of
the promontory is the erstwhile light house, and the walk to it is
lovely indeed.
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Portobello - Sardinia |
Costa Smeralda
Sardinia’s
northern Costa Smeralda is 55 kilometres long and features 80 bays
with pinkish white swimming beaches. Many of the idyllic, remote
bays are best reached by boat, although of course there are plenty
of pristine beaches that are also accessible by car.
Ensconced in the
unspoiled wilderness of northern Sardinia’s coast is Lisca di
Vacca, with its captivating and unique panoramic view of the
national park located on the islands of Maddalena and Caprera.
Liscia di Vacca, which is part of Porto Cervo, features a small
but enchanting stretch of sandy beach.
The alluring archipelago La
Maddalena consists of seven large and twenty smaller islands all
of which have been made a national park owing to their unique
wildlife and vegetation. Although the ferry from Palau takes
visitors to the largest of La Maddalena‘s islands, this island
paradise, with its remote and unspoiled bays, is best explored in
a rented boat. Visitors who are having a lucky day might catch a
tantalizing glimpse of dolphins frolicking in the crystal clear
water.
The world famous luxury resort
hotel Cala di Volpe and its eponymous long beaches lie 10
kilometers south of Porto Cervo. The hotel is favored by many of
Europe’s crowned heads, as well as stars from various media, who
come here to revel in Sardinia’s beauty. Il Pevero, one of Europe’s
most spectacular golf courses, is also nearby.
Costa Rei's Beaches
This stretch of coast is renowned for
its crystal clear water, golden sands and long beaches. It also
has a lake system that forms a nature reserve for rare avian
species. Costa Rei is bordered by the bays of Sant'' Elmo to the
south, and to the north by Capo Ferrato, a nature reserve where no
construction is allowed. Even a brief visit to Costa Rei is
unforgettable thanks to its pine groves, a Roman staircase leading
down to the sea, lovely maquis, strange and wonderful marine rock
formations and Ferraxi’s sandy bays and offshore islands.
The loveliness of the beach changes
with the shifting light at various times of day. The sun rises
over the flat and motionless sea, which glitters in an ethereal
bluisy grey light. The colors of the sea are at their most intense
at noon. The luminous hues vary from turquoise blue to emerald
green in waters where the seabed 20 meters below the surface of
the water is clearly visible. This fine sandy beach is dotted here
and there with rock formations that give way to rocky bays at Sant''
Elmo and Capo Ferrato and extend to Villasimius and the island of
Serpentara, creating a captivating panorama.
Villasimius
Located near
Villasimius harbour. Spiaggia di Porto Giuncu counts as one of
Sardinia’s most magnificent beaches, its crystal clear water and
gleaming white sand making it a rare find, even on an island so
replete with natural wonders. Also here is the renowned wellness
hotel Timi Ama Sofitel, a great place to enjoy a relaxing cool
drink and while you take a break from sunbathing.
Towards Cape
Carbonara, the sand dunes give way to another coastal jewel, the
salt water lake Timi Ama, where with a bit of luck you might
catch a glimpse of pink flamingos. And oftentimes leaping
dolphins can be seen offshore from a boat or even from Cape
Carbona itself.
Also well
worth a visit is the swimming bay Cala Pira, just off the road
to Costa Rei opposite the island of Serpentara, where an
intoxicating combination of aromatic maquis and glistening white
strand will bring the most urbane of urbanites back to nature.
One of Sardinia’s 7,000 nuraghis stands watching over the bay,
bearing mute testimony to the most ancient of times. The sea
here looks like a freshly cleaned sheet of glass: it’s only in
the distance that you catch a glimpse of gleaming azure.
Spiaggia di
Campulongu, west of the Capo Carbonara light house, is the
perfect place to catch the sun bidding adieu for the day as the
beach faces west. This gloriously long stretch of pristine sand
is a popular venue for wind surfers, and though well stocked
with sun worshipers in summer, never feels crowded.
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