The Republic of Colombia was formally established in 1855. Over the next 100 years, Colombian politics were dominated by the Conservative-Liberal feud, which often broke out into warfare. Periods of democratic Government alternated with dictatorships. There were occasions, however, when the two parties were able to unite to see off a common threat. The 1970 election was a turning point in Colombia’s recent history. Disaffected members of ANAPO (Alianza Nacional Popular) formed a guerrilla movement known as Movimiento 19 de Abril (M-19), which initiated a 15-year-long guerrilla campaign against the Government and acquired other left-wing groups.

Meanwhile, a third potent force emerged during the 1980s, in the form of organized drug traffickers (known as cartels). Large sums of money began to be turned into political power and leading politicians increasingly became tainted by connections with drug money. By 1998, the country was in the grip of the struggle between the Government, traffickers, right-wing paramilitaries and left-wing guerrillas. Leftist guerrillas created ‘liberated areas’, within which Government forces were unable or unwilling to operate. The US administration became infuriated and, in 2000, the US Clinton administration unveiled ‘Plan Colombia’, a massive military support program for the Colombian armed forces. Although portrayed as the latest phase of the ‘war on drugs’, it is clear that the program is essentially political and strategic – the objective is to destroy FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) and its allies. The Bush administration inherited ‘Plan Colombia’ after victory at the US November 2000 poll and endorsed the plan with some modifications. Its first effects became apparent the following year, when military forces retook part of the former ‘liberated zone’. The new hard line adopted by the Government was confirmed in May 2002, when the right-winger Alvaro Uribe, who favors all-out war against the left-wing guerrillas, won a comfortable victory at the Presidential election. Uribe immediately declared a partial state of emergency, allowing him to impose security measures by decree. In early 2003, American special forces troops became directly engaged for the first time in the eastern province of Arauca.

Yet what has endured in the midst of such ever-changing, violent proceedings is a calm and beautiful landscape that has much to offer, from nature (much is covered by the Amazon Basin; large lakes are surrounded by mountains; a Caribbean coastline twinkles with azure water) to humanmade wonders (archaeological digs unearth historical wealth; colonial houses adorn the towns; the Guajira Peninsula is home to more than 100,000 nomadic Indians). There must be hope that the political climate becomes just as clement very soon.

Geography
Colombia is situated in South America, bordered to the north by the Caribbean, to the northwest by Panama, to the west by the Pacific Ocean, to the southwest by Ecuador and Peru, to the northeast by Venezuela and to the southeast by Brazil. The Andes Mountains extend into the country in three ranges running south to north, dipping finally into the lowlands of the Caribbean coast. Along the southern part of the Pacific coast run wide, marshy lowlands rising to a relatively low but rugged mountain chain. East of this range, the southwestern coastal lowlands extend in a low trough running from the port of Buenaventura on the Pacific coast to the Caribbean. East of this rise the slopes of the Western Cordillera which, with the Central Cordillera range, runs north to the Caribbean lowlands from Ecuador, separated by a valley, filled in the south by volcanic ash to a height of 2500m (8202ft). Further north lies the fertile Cauca Valley, which extends to Cartago where it becomes a deep gorge running between the Cordilleras to the Caribbean lowlands. The Eastern Cordillera, the longest range, rises north of the Ecuadorean border and runs north then northeast towards Venezuela. Flat grassy prairies in the east along with the jungles and towering rainforests of the Amazon make up over half the country’s area. There are also two small islands, San Andrés and Providencia, located 700km (430 miles) north of the Colombian coast, that have belonged to Colombia since 1822.

Bogotá
The capital, founded in 1538, is the largest city and situated almost in the center of the country at an altitude of 2600m (8600ft). Bogotá reflects a blend of Colombian tradition and Spanish colonial influences. Many historical landmarks have been preserved, such as the Capitol Municipal Palace and the cathedral, the Capilla del Sangrario, on the main square, the Plaza Bolivar. Bogotá also contains the Gold Museum, with its unique collection of over 100,000 pre-Colombian artworks. Around 50km (32 miles) south of Bogotá lies Zipaquirá, an area well-known for its many salt mines, one of which contains the famous Salt Cathedral (capable of accommodating 8400 people). Guatavita, a two-hour bus drive from Bogotá, is best known for its Laguna de Guatavita, the ritual center and sacred lake of the Muisca Indians.

Cordillera
Medellín
Colombia’s second city is the capital of the state called Antioquia and has over 1.5 million inhabitants. The city lies 1300m (4264ft) above sea level in a narrow valley of the central mountain range. It is primarily industrial, and is the center of the coffee and textile trades. The region has acquired a reputation for violence owing to the war between the Government and the drug barons.

Cali
It is said to be the world's capital of Salsa and is the center of the principal sugar-producing region of the country, where modern technology blends with colonial tradition. Deposits of coal and precious metals are found in this area.
 

Cali - Colombia

Barranquilla
A busy port and Colombia’s fourth city, Barranquilla is located towards the mouth of the Magdalena River. It is the nation’s main maritime port and is one of the country's primary commercial centers. There is a colorful market in a side channel of the Magdalena.

Caribbean Coast
The main tourist resorts on Colombia’s 1600km- (1000 mile-) long Caribbean coast lie near Santa Marta, one of the first major cities founded by the Spanish in South America. Its modern hotels, white beaches and proximity to fashionable beach resorts now make it a popular base for visitors wishing to explore the coast. The Tayrona National Park, some 35km (22 miles) south of Santa Marta, is one of the country’s most popular parks. Its major attraction is its deep bays, shaded with coconut trees, beautiful beaches and several coral reefs. Cartagena, an ancient walled fortress city on the north coast, is also worth a visit, particularly for its fascinating Old Town. Tourist facilities have been considerably developed in recent years, particularly at El Laguita, an L-shaped pensinsula, now packed with hotels and expensive restaurants. Some 35km (22 miles) west lie the Islas del Rosario, an archipelago of about 25 small coral islands now declared a national park. Cruises and tours are widely available and can be booked in Cartagena. Easily reached from Cartagena, by plane or boat, are the islands of San Andrés and Providencia, nearly 500km (300 miles) north of the Colombian coast. San Andrés was once the headquarters of the English pirate Captain Henry Morgan, the scourge of the Caribbean. The islands are duty-free, and consequently often crowded, but there are still several less spoilt parts. Popular excursions include visits by boat to Johnny Cay and the Aquarium.

The Amazon Basin
Almost one-third of Colombia’s territory is covered by the Amazon Basin, an area of thick tropical forest in the southeast, with no roads and inhabited mostly by Indians. The most popular base for tourists wishing to explore the area is Leticia, a small town with well-developed tourist facilities, located on the banks of the Amazon River and close to the border with Brazil and Peru. Jungle trips, notably to the nearby Amacayu National Park, are widely available and often include visits to Indian tribes.

Elsewhere
Colombia has much to offer those interested in archaeology. San Augustín Archaeological Park contains a great number of relics and massive stone statues. The traditional city of Popayan is the birthplace of many of Colombia’s most illustrious statesmen. As well as containing many fine colonial houses and churches, it is also noted for its Holy Week procession. Tierradentro, in the southwest of the country, has beautiful manmade burial caves painted with pre-Colombian geometric patterns. In the same region, Silva is a beautiful Indian town. The country also contains much unspoilt countryside; the Guajira Peninsula is home to more than 100,000 nomadic Indians.

Activities

Watersports
Water-skiing, boating, sailing and skindiving can all be practiced on the coast (check with authorities before diving, as sharks and barracudas have caused fatalities). Fishing is excellent all year round; a license is required.

Other
Football is Colombia’s main sport, with major league games played throughout the year. Tennis is popular; most hotels have facilities. Mountain climbing begins 48km (30 miles) east of Santa Marta, with peaks of up to nearly 6000m (19,000ft). A major cycle race, the Tour of Colombia, takes place every March and April. Boxing and bullfighting (the latter at Bogotá, Cali, Medellín, Manizales and Cartagena) are popular sports. Golf clubs allow visitors to use their facilities. Good skiing can be found on the slopes of Nevado del Ruiz (5400m/ 17,700ft), 48km (30 miles) from Manizales.

Colombia travel tips

Social Conventions
Normal courtesies should be observed. It is customary to offer guests black Colombian coffee, well sugared, called tinto. Spanish style and culture can still be seen in parts of the country, although in Bogotá, North American attitudes and clothes are becoming prevalent. Casual clothes can be worn in most places; formal attire will be necessary for exclusive dining rooms and social functions. Smoking is allowed except where indicated. The visitor is advised that many of the main cities in Colombia are notorious for street crime, particularly at night. Drug-related crimes are a serious problem throughout the country and the visitor should be wary of the unsolicited attention of strangers.

International Travel:

Air
Colombia’s national airline is Avianca (AV). Avianca and British Airways each operate flights daily to Bogotá. Other airlines flying to Colombia include Air France, American Airlines, British Airways, Continental Airlines, Delta Airlines, Iberia and Spanair, but, as with Avianca, some may not fly directly there but with other airlines as part of a Code Share agreement.

Approximate flight times
From London to Bogotá is 11 hours 45 minutes, from Los Angeles is 10 hours 30 minutes, from New York is six hours 30 minutes, and from Sydney is 29 hours.

International airports
Bogotá (El Dorado) (BOG) is situated 12km (8 miles) east of the city. To/from the airport: Buses to the city depart every 20 minutes from 0600-2200 (travel time – 30 minutes). Taxis are also available (travel time - 30 to 40 minutes). Facilities: Bank, duty free shop, bar, restaurant, tourist information, post office, chemist/pharmacist and car hire.
Barranquilla (Ernesto Cortissoz) (BAQ) is 10km (6 miles) from the city. Facilities: Car hire is available.
Cali (Palmaseca) (CLO) is 19km (10 miles) from the city.
Cartagena (Crespo) (CTG) is 2km (1 mile) from the city.

Departure tax
Either collected upon ticket issuance or levied upon embarkation. Transit passengers continuing their journey on the same day are exempt. The price will be £28 or possibly more - payable by cash only.

The Visit South America Pass
This must be bought outside South America in country of residence and allows unlimited travel to 34 cities in the following countries: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Chile (except Easter Island), Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay and Venezuela. Participating airlines include Aer Lingus (EI), American Airlines (AA), British Airways (BA), Cathay Pacific (CX), Finnair (AY), IBERIA (IB), LAN-Chile (LA) and Qantas (QF). A minimum of three flights must be booked, with no maximum; the maximum stay is 60 days, with no minimum, and prices depend on the amount of flight zones covered. Children under 12 years of age are entitled to a 33 per cent discount and infants (under two years old) only pay 10 per cent of the adult fare. For further details, contact one of the participating airlines.

Note
All air tickets purchased in Colombia for destinations outside the country are liable to a total tax of 15 per cent on one-way tickets and 7.5 per cent on return tickets.

Sea
Major ports on the Caribbean coast include Cartagena, Baranquilla, Santa Marta and Turnaco. Buenaventura is the main port on the Pacific coast. Many ships and cruise lines visit these ports from the USA, Mexico, Venezuela, Central America and the Caribbean Islands. Leticia is the upper Amazonian port.

Rail
There are no international rail connections.

Road
Colombia can be reached from Panama via the Darien Gap, but the route is not advised as it can be long, arduous and dangerous. Vehicles can also be freighted from Panama to one of Colombia’s Caribbean or Pacific ports. There are also road links with Ecuador and Venezuela, although travelers should check with the local embassy about safety of roads before crossing the border to Venezuela. Coach/bus: TEPSA buses connect with Venezuela. Coaches are comfortable and services good. There are second-class buses from Maracaibo to Santa Marta and Cartagena, but this method of traveling can be uncomfortable.

The following goods may be taken into Colombia by people up to 18 years of age without incurring customs duty:
200 cigarettes and 50 cigars and up to 500g of tobacco; two bottles of alcoholic beverage; a reasonable quantity of perfume; one still camera and one moving picture camera.
Note: Emeralds and items made from gold or platinum need a receipt from the place of purchase that must be presented to customs on departure.

Prohibited items
Ammunition and firearms, unless prior authorization has been obtained, and
item(s) are declared on arrival. Vegetables, plants or plant material; meat and food products of animal origin.

Internal Travel:

Air
There is an excellent internal air network connecting major cities, including those in the Caribbean coastal area. There are also local helicopter flights. There are flights between the mainland and the islands of San Andrés and Providencia operating from most major Colombian cities. Services are offered by Avianca, SAM and Aires. San Andrés is a regular stop for Avianca, Lacsa and Sahsa airlines.

Avianca-Colombia Airpass
This must be bought with an international air ticket and includes travel to all Colombian domestic points served by Avianca, SAM and Aires. It excludes travel to Leticia and San Andreas Pass. Air passes are valid for a maximum of 30 days if longhaul flight is with Avianca and 21 days if longhaul flight with with any other carrier.

Departure tax
peso6800-8500, usually included in the ticket price.

Sea
There is a ferry service between the mainland and the islands of San Andrés and Providencia, leaving from the Muelle de los Pegasos. The journey is long (72 hours) but cheap. Information about other sailings to San Andrés can be obtained from the Maritima San Andrés office.

River
The Magdalena River is the main artery of Colombia. Some cargo boats take passengers, though this is a slow way to travel. It is possible to hire boats for particular trips. Paddle steamers no longer run services up and down the river and hiring can be expensive. From Leticia, on the Peruvian border, a number of operators run sightseeing tours and jungle expeditions up the Amazon. It is necessary to make enquiries in situ, and wise to shop around before booking on any one trip.

Rail
Although trains still carry freight, inter-city passenger services are virtually non-existent. Services have been frequently suspended during recent years owing to operators’ financial difficulties. The main route is between Bogotá and Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast, east of Barranquilla. Because of the distances, it is easier to take a plane if speed is important.

Road
A good highway links Santa Marta in the east with Cartagena, and passes Barranquilla en route. The Trans-Caribbean Highway has placed Barranquilla only five hours away from Venezuela. Northeast of Santa Marta, in the Guajira Peninsula, roads are usually passable except during rainy periods. There is highway transportation between the coastal cities and the capital and other cities of the interior, but much of the highway is rutted. Travelers are advised against driving in rural areas as guerilla and paramilitary groups have a strong presence. Bus: The long distances make air travel advisable. However, the best bus lines are said to be the Flota Magdalena, Expreso Bolivariano and, especially, the Expreso Palmira. Approximately 40 companies with modern buses and minibuses provide transportation between coastal towns and cities. There are also collectivos (taxi-buses) for shorter distances which can often be a cheaper alternative. Car hire: Avis, Budget, Hertz and National have car hire offices, but driving in cities is not recommended. Traffic drives on the right. Seat belts in the front two seats are mandatory; however, car seats for children are not compulsory. Children under ten years of age cannot sit in the front seat. The urban speed limit is 28-37mph, and the rural speed limit is 50mph. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required.

Urban
Bogotá has extensive trolleybus, bus and minibus services, and a funicular railway; flat fares are charged. There are also shared taxis (buseta) which are not expensive and stop on demand. Drivers are authorized to add a supplement for out-of-town trips and to airports. At hotels, the green and cream colored taxis are available for tourists. They are more expensive than the others, but some of the drivers may have a working knowledge of English. Passengers should insist that meters are used. For those without a meter the fare should be agreed before starting a journey.