Ecuador’s coastal region (the western lowlands) is made up of fertile plains, rolling hills, and sedimentary basins traversed by a plethora of rivers that rush from the heights of the Andes to the Pacific Ocean. All five coastal provinces, encompassing 640 kilometers of coastline between them, have attractive beaches and plenty of hotels and resorts for tourists.

The Andes Mountain Range crosses the country from north to south.

The Amazon Region can be geographically divided into two sub regions: the High Amazon and the Amazon Lowlands. The Highlands is comprised of the Andean foothills which slowly descend towards the Amazon River Basin. The Napo, Galeras, Cutucú, and Cóndor ranges are located here. The most impressive elevated regions of this area are in the north and include Volcano Sumaco. The Lowlands, found further to east, are home to some of the nation’s most beautiful and important rivers: the Putumayo, the Napo, and the Pastaza.

The Archipelago of Colón (commonly known as the Galapagos Islands) is made up of 13 main islands, 17 islets, and dozens of ancient rock formation. Apart from its beautiful beaches and unique and varied ecosystems, the Galapagos Islands are home to towering active volcanoes.

Ecuador is bordered to the north by Colombia, to the east and south by Peru, and to the west by the Pacific Ocean. There are three distinct zones: the Sierra or uplands of the Andes, running from the Colombian border in the north to Peru in the south (of this there are two main ranges - the Eastern and Western Cordilleras, which are divided by a long valley); the Costa, a coastal plain between the Andes and the Pacific with plantations of bananas, cacao, coffee and sugar; and the Oriente, the upper Amazon basin to the east, consisting of tropical jungles threaded by rivers. The latter, although comprising 36 per cent of Ecuador’s land area, contains only 3 per cent of the population. Colonization is, however, increasing in the wake of the oil boom.

Where to go in Ecuador

Quito
Ecuador’s capital (and second-largest) city has a setting of great natural beauty, overshadowed by the volcano Pichincha with its twin peaks of Ruco and Guagua. Quito is located at 2850m (9348 ft) above sea level and some visitors may suffer from altitude sickness during the first hours after arrival. Quito used to be a major Inca city that was destroyed shortly before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. Although no Inca traces remain, the city has preserved much of its Spanish colonial character, the cathedral in the Plaza de la Independencia (the oldest church in South America) and the many old churches and monasteries being among the most notable instances. Also in the plaza is the Municipal Palace, the Archbishop’s Palace and the Palacio Presidencial. Many of the city’s famous churches and monasteries contain priceless examples of Spanish art and sculpture, particularly the Monasterio de San Francisco (located in the beautiful plaza of the same name) and the Jesuit church of La Compañía. Most of Quito’s colonial churches are located in the Old Town, parts of which have been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Perhaps the best preserved colonial street is the historic alley of la Ronda. Other places in Quito worth visiting include the Parque la Alameda (a triangular-shaped park), the astronomical observatory, the School of Fine Arts and the modern Palacio Legislativo. As the cultural and political capital, Quito has a number of museums of colonial and modern art. The Museo del Banco Central, located in the Casa de la Cultura, has a vast archaeological repertory as well as displays of colonial furniture and religious art. Also of interest is the Museo Guayasamín, home to many fine works of Ecuador’s renowned modern artist Oswaldo Guayasamín.

The Andean Highlands
The Pan-American Highway traverses the country from north to south, a spectacular route which passes through all the principal cities of the Andean Highlands. Tulcán, center of a rich farming area, is the northernmost of these. Further south is Chota, still inhabited by the descendants of former African slaves who retain some of their tribal customs (the city’s population being made up largely of Africans). Chota’s Indian market (particularly good for traditional art and weavings) is renowned throughout Ecuador. The peak of Mount Imbabura signals the approach to the valley of Otavalo (95km/60 miles from Quito), the town of the same name being famed for its craftwork and Indian market (which is at its biggest on Saturdays). Approaching Quito, one passes a granite monument which marks the Equator. South of Quito, the region of Latacunga and Ambato has much fine scenery, marked by an avenue of volcanoes. Two active ones are located within the Parque Nacional Sangay, a national park of outstanding beauty which has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The park is characterized by a variety of landscapes, ranging from rain forests to glaciers, as well as numerous indigenous animal species, such as the mountain tapir and the Andean condor. Located within Sangay park, the Tunguraha volcano (5016m/16,453ft) is popular with tourists, especially at night, since it became active again in 1999. West of Latacunga, the Parque Nacional Cotopaxi is Ecuador’s most visited national park. It includes the active Cotopaxi volcano which, at 5895m (19,345ft), is the world’s highest active volcano. All have refuges at the snow-line where intrepid walkers can make overnight stays. Visitors are, however, advised to be cautious when setting out on walking or trekking trips as robberies have been reported in certain areas; experienced mountain guides are available. Further south, the city of Cuenca was founded in 1577 and still contains many examples of Spanish colonial architecture. Contrasting with this, a vast cathedral has recently been built. The nearby ancient Inca settlement at Ingapirca, 50km (32 miles) north of Cuenca, is worth visiting. In the highlands of southern Ecuador, Loja is the last city of importance on the Pan-American Highway, being originally a trading station on the Spanish ‘gold road’. Not far from Loja, the Parque Nacional Podocarpus is, along with Ecuador’s other national parks, a popular destination for walking and climbing.

The Coast
Guayaquil
Ecuador’s biggest city, Guayaquil is also the chief port and commercial center. A good starting point for sightseeing is the Rotonda, the city’s most historic landmark, which faces the beautiful garden promenade of Paseo de las Colonias. Across the malecón are the Government Palace and city hall while, at the northern end, one can find the ancient fortress of la Planchada. Other places of interest include the Church of Santo Domingo, the old residential section of Las Penas and the Municipal Museum.

Guayaquil - Ecuador

The Littoral
This is a narrow coastal belt, 560km (350 miles) in length. The chief ports provide visitors with some of the best resorts for deep-sea fishing on the west coast. Particularly attractive are the towns of Playas Posoria and Salinas, while Esmeraldas, one of the country’s most important ports, is also known for its beautiful beaches. The relaxing island of Muisne is also becoming a popular destination. The region of Santo Domingo de los Colorados, situated some 90km (55 miles) west of Quito, is the domain of the Colorados Indians who still practice many of their ancient customs.

The Oriente
El Oriente is the term used by Ecuadorians to refer to the Amazon basin in eastern Ecuador. This is a primeval world of virgin forests and exotic flora and fauna, still mainly inhabited by Indians. In January 1999, the Ecuadorian President issued a decree blocking future oil exploration, mining and colonization by oil companies of the Cuyabeno-Imuya and Yasuni national parks. These parks are home to thousands of indigenous people, including the Huaorani, the Tagaeri, the Taromenare, the Secoyas and the Sionas. In recent years, the region has experienced ongoing conflicts between oil companies seeking to develop the area and indigenous communities afraid that development will lead to the destruction of their ancestral homeland and loss of their traditional way of life. The principal towns of the area are El Puyo, Lago Agrio, Macas, Sucúa, Tena and Zamora. Tourist excursions are available along the rivers, which provide the principal method of transport. One of the main rivers in this region is the Napo which, like most of the rivers in the Oriente, is a tributary of the Amazon (which lies further east in Peru). Baños is worth visiting, taking its name from the numerous springs and pools of hot and cold mineral waters. It is also the gateway to the Amazon region, passing through the spectacular gorge of the River Pastaza.

Galápagos Islands
Situated about 1000km (625 miles) west of the Ecuadorian mainland, the islands are bleak, barren and rocky. Made famous by Charles Darwin’s scientific voyage in the ‘Beagle’ during the 19th century, the islands’ unique wildlife – which includes giant tortoises, lizards and iguanas – remains the most interesting feature for the modern-day visitor. Some 50 per cent of the islands’ species are found nowhere else in the world. The islands have been turned into a national park in an attempt to preserve their natural state, and, in 1978, UNESCO declared the Galápagos to be ‘the universal natural heritage of humanity’. In 1998, the Government enacted a law for the ‘Special Regime for the Conservation and Sustainable Development of the Galápagos Province’, which states that the protection of the area is a state responsibility. Accommodation and travel can generally be arranged either inclusively from the visitor’s home country or through local tour operators once in Ecuador. It is advisable to shop around and take advice before booking as the quality of service and reliability can vary greatly. For further information, contact the Galápagos Tour Operators Association (ASOGAL), Avenida de los Shyris 247 y Gaspar de Villarroel (tel: (2) 441 550; fax: (2) 436 625). Accommodation is extremely limited and food is not cheap. There are a few small restaurants. Boat trips around the islands can be arranged locally.

Actvities

Rainforest treks
Travelers wishing to explore the rainforest of the lower Amazon basin and its abundant plant and animal life should head to the Oriente region (see Where to Go section). It is probably best to do this as part of an organized tour, which can be booked with a number of local operators providing tailor-made itineraries and experienced guides. The presence of hundreds of waterways, many of which are tributaries of the great River Amazon, means that such tours invariably involve traveling by boat. Usually, these are large motorized canoes traveling up the main rivers (such as the Aguarico or the Napo), although trips on non-motorized boats along the smaller waterways are also available, which is a far better way to observe the wildlife. Several indigenous communities living in the region have preserved their traditional lifestyles and are actively engaged in resisting the ongoing attempts by oil companies to develop and exploit the Ecuadorian rainforest.

Hiking
There are some good hiking trails in Cotopaxi National Park, one of them following the shores of Lago Limpiopungo, located at an altitude of 3800m (12,465ft).

Climbing
Several tour operators based in Baños, Ecuador’s tourist mecca for adventure sports and trips to the rainforest, also offer climbing expeditions to the volcanoes. Experienced climbers may head to the Cotopaxi volcano which at 5985m (19,345ft) is one of the world’s highest and is best reached from Quito.

Wildlife
Apart from the rainforest, Ecuador’s rich wildlife is best represented in the Galápagos Islands, whose most famous inhabitants are the giant Galápagos tortoises (weighing up to 272kg/600lb). Adventure tours around the islands are available, either in large cruise ships or in smaller ships and yachts (advance booking is essential). The amount of time visitors are allowed to stay on the islands is regulated by the Government. For further details on the Galápagos Islands, see the Where to Go section.

Watersports
There are 2800km (1750 miles) of coastline along the mainland, with beach resorts offering various types of watersports. Good snorkeling is available via chartered boat trips around the Isla de la Plata (located in the Parque Nacional Machalilla, Ecuador’s only coastal national park). Fishing is particularly good off the western coast. Whitewater rafting is also popular in and around Baños.

Scenic train journeys
Several of Ecuador’s railway routes, particularly those in the Andes, pass through spectacular mountain scenery, often at dramatic altitudes. The Ecuadorian custom of riding on the roof of the train makes the views even more breathtaking. One of the most famous routes, whose climax is the precipitous ‘Devil’s Nose’ passage, is from Riobamba down to the Pacific coast. Train schedules are fairly erratic and visitors should check locally prior to traveling.