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Les Grands-Montets is the major attraction for advanced skiers with some
massive mogul fields and endless off-piste skiing. The Vallée
Blanche is probably the best-known ski trail in the Alps: a 13-mile
(21km) glacier run along the Mer de Glace back to Chamonix. It's
often closed due to bad weather, but is an essential adventure for
competent skiers. Skiers should take a guide and be prepared for bad
weather.
Shopping: Chamonix is a year-round
town and is packed with a selection of shops - though most are aimed
at skiers and climbers. There are plenty of supermarkets and
delicatessens for self-caterers |
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Chamonix, ski France |
Restaurants: Chamonix is alive
with restaurants, ranging from first-class French restaurants to
Indian, Chinese, Italian and Japanese. For Michelin standard food,
book Albert Ist et Milan in the town centre. Argentiere has some
good local restaurants but much less choice than Chamonix. There are
some fine restaurants on the slopes too, including Le 3842, the
highest restaurant in Europe.
Nightlife: Chamonix is known for
its ski-hard-party-hard atmosphere and the nightlife won't
disappoint. The Bumble Bee and the Mill Street bar in Chamonix and
the Office Bar in Argentiere are popular choices for après-ski
drinks, and Wild Wallabies is an essential stop for hard-drinking
Brits and Scandinavians. There is a casino for those wishing to try
their luck on the tables.
Activities: Chamonix has a
swimming centre - with pools, a sauna and Turkish baths, and an
indoor ice rink and bowling. Paragliding can be arranged when the
weather's good.
Negatives: The ski areas in
Chamonix do not inter-connect and the base lift stations are far
apart, so a car is essential in Chamonix unless you are happy to
wait for the erratic shuttle buses. The beginner slopes are
separated from the main skiing areas making lunch meetings hard to
organise. Chamonix has its own microclimate and the weather can be
bad when neighbouring resorts are fine. If it is clouded over, it's
worth checking out the weather in Courmayeur in Italy, a short trip
away through the Mont Blanc tunnel.
Courchevel is made up of five separate resorts, all
within the Trois Vallées ski area, which also incorporates Meribel
and Val Thorens. The main resorts are named after their heights -
Courchevel 1850, 1650, 1550 and Le Praz 1300. La Tania is another,
small purpose-built resort situated on a ridge between Courchevel
and Meribel. Courchevel 1850 is the smartest and most expensive of
the resorts; it has the best restaurants, nightlife and access to
the slopes. Courchevel 1650 and 1550 are quieter, more suited to
families, and Le Praz is a pretty village with narrow streets, but
due to its altitude has less reliable snow.
Skiing: The Trois Vallées ski
area is one of the best and most extensive in the world (10 times
larger than Vail, the largest ski resort in the States), and
Courchevel offers the best skiing within the area. There are lots of
easy slopes for beginners beneath the Saulire cable car base station
and there's lots of choice for intermediates in both Courchevel and
neighbouring Meribel. Advanced skiers will enjoy the reds and blacks
above La Saulire; there are also some challenging north-facing
slopes above Val Thorens, which can be reached within a day's skiing.
Snowboarders will find some great slopes for cruising and some
exciting couloirs for experts. When the snow's good there's some
good off-piste - but it's advised to only go with a guide.
Shopping: Courchevel 1850 offers
the best shopping, ranging from ski shops to expensive designer
boutiques. The lower resorts all have ski shops and mini-supermarkets
as well as a fine selection of bakeries and delicatessens.
Restaurants: Courchevel 1850 has
the best and most expensive restaurants. Chabichou and Le Bateau
Ivre offer some of the best food in the Alps, however all resorts
have a good choice of reasonably priced, good quality restaurants.
Nightlife: All the villages offer
their own nightlife, although most visitors make the trip to
Courchevel 1850 for the liveliest clubs and bars.
Activities: Parasailing and
tobogganing can be arranged and for whiteout days there is a cinema,
bowling, ice skating and a swimming pool. Some of the smarter hotels
offer spa treatments.
Negatives: Courchevel 1850 is
very expensive, although it's still possible to find 2 and 3-star
hotels. As a rule, it is cheaper the lower you go. During school
holidays some slopes can get very crowded.
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Skiing France |
La Plagne is a vast ski resort with an enormous
vertical drop of 6,562ft (2,000m), double that of Aspen for example.
One of Europe's largest resorts, La Plagne is made up of 10
different 'villages', six purpose built and four traditional that
are connected by public conveyances and a lift system. As such it
can boast the largest ski area of any single resort in the world,
and its linked trail system (Paradiski) with Les Arcs means there
are now 261 miles (420km) of trails and 144 ski lifts. This high
altitude resort centres on apartment life; there are few hotels and
its convenience makes up for its lack of charm. The highest complex
at Aime La Plagne is 6,890ft (2,100m) is considered to be the most
convenient with many of the best apartments, while the lowest
mountain village, at 5,906ft (1,800m), is the neo-Savoyard Plagne
1800. The largest complex with the liveliest atmosphere is the
original Plagne Centre, one of the first villages in Europe to be
built catering specifically for the skiing season. The lifts are
near to the accommodation and you can generally ski to your door.
For beginners and intermediates, this is the best of the European
ski resorts.
Skiing: As a high-altitude resort,
the snow cover is reliable, particularly up on the Bellecôte Glacier
(10,663ft/3,250m), and the terrain is extensive. La Plagne is one of
the best resorts for beginner and intermediate skiers and boarders
as far as prepared trails go, but there is also plenty of off-piste
terrain and challenging runs from the glacier for experts. The
scenery and views are stunning and can be enjoyed by all levels from
the highest point, where trails for all abilities will lead even
novice skiers safely down again. Intermediates will find more than
enough to believe they are in skiing heaven, and beginners are well
catered for with nursery slopes adjacent to all the villages and
novice runs between centres. There are 17 ski schools and numerous
skiing areas for children.
Shopping: Each complex of the
purpose-built sections of La Plagne has apartments, with stores and
ski shops all interconnected by tunnels and walkways. The
underground passages are reminiscent of a subway shopping mall and
shoppers will find clothes and accessories, bookshops, gifts,
jewellery and handicrafts.
Restaurants: There are more than
50 restaurants to choose from in the resort, most of them in Plagne
Centre.
Nightlife: There are several
nightclubs in the resort, as well as cafes and coffee houses that
offer live music, karaoke and concerts.
Activities: Besides the fantastic
skiing and snowboarding, other activities include ice skating, dog
sled rides, an Olympic bobsleigh piste, ice climbing, a night skiing
slalom stadium, cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing. Hang gliding
and paragliding are also available. Some complexes offer outdoor
heated pools, fitness centres, ten-pin bowling and electronic golf.
Negatives: The resort is not the
image of a traditional village with many high-rise buildings and
purpose-built complexes. Waiting times at lifts can be lengthy.
Les Arcs A modern, purpose-built ski resort, Les
Arcs comprises four resort villages situated above the town of Bourg-Saint-Maurice,
all linked by a free shuttle bus. Named after their respective
altitudes, Arc 1600, Arc 1800 and Arc 2000 are built with glass and
concrete apartment buildings, purposefully designed with convenience
in mind, while the latest addition to the resort, Arc 1950, has a
more traditional guise and a typically European village style. The
large and diverse network of well-groomed pistes more than make up
for any lack of charm however, and the highest station at Aiguille
Rouge Peak (10,584ft/3,226m) guarantees excellent snow conditions
from December to April. Its vast trail system has been linked to
that of La Plagne making the combined Paradiski area one of the
largest interconnected ski and snowboard areas in the world. Arc
1800 is the biggest and most popular resort, consisting of four
villages, and is the most conveniently situated for all levels of
skiers and non-skiers, while just below, Arc 1600 is smaller, and
suited to young families, although it can get crowded on weekends (direct
funicular link to the town of Bourg Saint Maurice). More devoted
snow enthusiasts prefer to head to the highest resort, Arc 2000,
situated at the foot of Aiguille Rouge in the next valley, where the
emphasis is on skiing and snowboarding rather than apres-ski
facilities. It has easy access to the glacier and is linked to Arc
1950 by a free cable car.
Skiing: The vast terrain offers
good skiing for all levels of skiers and snowboarders, with easy
access to the excellent nursery slopes from all the villages for
beginners. Intermediates are the most spoilt for choice, with
abundant blue and red runs throughout the area, while advanced
skiers should head to the high pistes above Arc 2000 and the black
runs on the Aiguille Rouge peak. Off-piste opportunities are also
available. Snow conditions on the higher pistes are generally good,
and snow cannons keep the sunnier, lower slopes covered. There is
also a good snowboard park with jumps and a half pipe at Arc 2000.
Shopping: There are supermarkets
in all villages and a variety of shops, although Arc 1800 has the
most choice. Arc 1950 also offers a wide range of shops, from
clothes and souvenirs to sport equipment and rental. Arc 2000 has
the least variety, and more serious shoppers should head to the
lower altitudes for better options.
Restaurants: All villages offer a
variety of dining options, from local specialities to international
cuisine. Arc 1800 has the biggest variety, while Arc 1600 and Arc
2000 have only a few restaurants to choose from.
Nightlife: Nightlife is fairly
low-key in Les Arcs, although all villages have bars and there are
one or two nightclubs.
Activities: Les Arcs is a year-round
resort with a huge variety of summer and winter activities, from
climbing, hiking, horse riding and golf in summer, to sleigh rides,
paragliding and snow-shoeing in winter. Bourg-Saint-Maurice is worth
a visit and there are several interesting excursions to villages in
the area, an ice grotto and several museums to explore.
Meribel is in the centre of the Trois Vallées,
which also incorporates Courchevel and Val Thorens. Together they
form the largest ski area in the world. Unlike most French ski
resorts, Meribel has retained an atmosphere of the traditional
skiing village, despite having grown enormously in recent years.
Meribel-Mottaret is situated two miles (4km) up the valley and is
better suited for the skiing, but not the nightlife. The resort was
founded by the English early in the last century and is still very
popular with Brits.
Skiing: The Trois Vallées ski
area is one of the best and most extensive in the world (10 times
larger than Vail, the largest ski resort in the States), and Meribel
is in the middle between Courchevel and Val Thorens. Meribel has a
vast choice for beginner and intermediate skiers, but those with
more experience will want to test out the slopes in Courchevel and
Val Thorens. Snowboarders will find lots of challenging slopes and
couloirs and when the snow is good there is some great off-piste.
Shopping: Meribel is stuffed with
lots of good-value ski shops. Those with more expensive taste can
ski over to Courchevel 1850. There are plenty of mini-supermarkets
for self-caterers as well as a fine selection of bakeries and
delicatessens.
Restaurants: There are some
seriously good restaurants in Meribel; get local advice on arrival
and book early for the best. There's more choice for those happy
with a fondue and nice bottle of red, but it is still worth booking,
especially during the chalet girl's night off.
Nightlife: The nightlife in
Meribel is not as wild as in some ski resorts, but there's still
plenty going on. Dick's T-bar is the best-known nightclub and the
queues can be long. Meribel-Mottaret has few choices and closes up
earlier.
Activities: Paragliding can be
organised and is a great option for getting down to Meribel when the
snow's not so good. For whiteout days there's a cinema, bowling,
ice-skating, a gym and a swimming pool. Some of the smarter hotels
offer spa treatments.
Negatives: Meribel is quite
spread out and much of the accommodation is far from the slopes. The
resort is quite low and it is often not possible to ski to the main
village.
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Morzine The traditional mountain village of
Morzine is situated in the middle of one of the most extensive ski
areas in the Alps, the Portes du Soleil, which links 14 ski resorts
in France and Switzerland, and offers hundreds of miles of off-piste
terrain and groomed slopes, and runs up to seven miles (11km) long,
spread across 14 valleys. It is a great family resort with
traditional chalets, special childcare services, and plenty of
beginner and intermediate slopes in the vicinity, as well as family-orientated
activities. Advanced skiers and boarders will also find endless off-piste
opportunities and ample challenges on the black slopes. About a mile
higher up the slope is the purpose-built resort of Avoriaz, which is
a popular base for trips across the border to the Swiss resorts, and
its treeless slopes offer powder snow and great boarding.
Skiing: The unlimited ski area of
the Portes du Soleil offers slopes for all levels of skiing and
snowboarding at the foot of the Dents du Midi and the Dents Blanches,
with wonderful panoramic views. The terrain covers about 404 miles
(650km) of marked runs making it the largest ski area in the world.
Both Morzine and Avoriaz have nursery slopes next to the resort,
while intermediates have a playground of vast proportions in the
Morzine area as well as throughout the Portes du Soleil circuit.
Advanced skiers and boarders will find more than 20 black runs,
endless off-piste and some of the biggest moguls in the world on the
legendary 'Wall' at Avoriaz. Avoriaz is also one of Europe's top
snowboarding destinations. Ski schools offer lessons to all ages
from three years up, for all levels.
Shopping: Displayed in shop
windows are a variety of local handmade goods and typical French
flavours, such as traditional Savoyard pottery, sculpted objects
made from the local wood and slate, mountain cheeses and salted meat.
There are also fashion boutiques and sports shops.
Restaurants: Morzine specialises
largely in fully catered chalet-style holidays, but for those
looking for a night out there are a variety of options available.
Traditional fare such as raclette, fondue, berthoud or diots can be
found in establishments like L'Etale, Le Clin D'Oeil and Les Sapins,
known for its home cooking, or gourmet Savoyard specialities in La
Grange. Meals are well accompanied by local wines.
Nightlife: Après-ski is generally
low-key and relatively calm, but several bars and discos offer a bit
of after-hours entertainment. Boudha Café, Crépuscule and Le Café
Chaud are fun for a party, and Opera Rock disco attracts a younger
local crowd.
Activities: A wide range of
activities is offered, both on and off the slopes. Cross-country
skiing, night time sledging and sleigh rides, snowshoeing,
paragliding and winter walks are some of the activities available.
For something different, adventure parks offer a circuit made of
ladders, swing bridges and zip wires between the trees, or try kite
skiing and snowboarding. Other attractions include a visit to the
slate mines or watching a cheese-maker in action. A sports hall has
a fitness centre and ice-skating rink.
Negatives: The low altitude of
the resort means that resort level snow is rare and there may be a
wait at the lifts to access the mountains.
Val d'Isere is one of the true European ski meccas;
it has some of the best, and highest, on and off-piste skiing in the
world. The resort is linked with Tignes, and between them they have
186 miles (299km) of marked runs for every level of skier. Both
resorts were developed, rather badly, in the 1970s, and large square
hotels dominate the town. However, Val d'Isere remains popular with
the English due to the great skiing and busy nightlife, which is
centred on venues such as Dick's Tea Bar and the Moris Pub. There
are also plenty of good French restaurants to choose from. The
village is becoming increasingly busy in the summer when tourists
flock there for walking or paragliding.
Skiing: The combined area of Val
d'Isere and Tignes offers a massive amount of skiing for all
standards. The nursery slopes just above the village are free and a
number of companies offer first-rate instruction. As standards
improve, skiers can make their way up the slope to the wide choice
of green and blue runs. The Solaise slopes can be reached by cable
car from the village centre and offer a variety of exciting piste
skiing for intermediates and beginners, experts can drop off the
sides for some powder. The Bellevarde slopes offer some good high-altitude
skiing including a 3000-foot (1000m) run down to La Daille. Skiers
from all over the world flock to Val d'Isere for its vast expanse of
off-piste skiing; whatever your standard it's best to take a guide
for safety and to help find the best powder.
Shopping: Val d'Isere has plenty
to offer shopaholics, particularly those with large wallets wanting
to look their best on the slopes. Prices are much more affordable
towards the end of the season as shops clear the shelves for next
year's look. There are mini-supermarkets and some wonderful
delicatessens if you are self-catering.
Restaurants: There are more than
50 restaurants in Val d'Isere, most serving up a first-rate but
pricey menu. Le Grande Ourse and Hotel Savoyarde are among the best
restaurants in Val d'Isere but fine restaurants can be found on most
streets. As is often the case, the smaller more intimate restaurants
generally offer the best fare and it's best to ask a local for up-to-date
advice. The same goes for the mountain restaurants - those at the
lift stations are not great by French standards, but some real gems
are tucked away and often only found by chance.
Nightlife: Apres-ski in Val
d'Isere seems to be dominated by English speakers and bars such as
Dick's Tea Bar and the Moris Pub fill up with Brits and Aussie
skiers straight off the slopes. Many stay until the early hours
before staggering back to their quarters still in their ski boots.
Skiers can head to the four-star Hotel Christiana's bar for a more
sophisticated drink or Victors for the Scandinavians. Dick's T Bar
gets going after midnight with loud music and plenty of alcohol. The
French go to Club 21.
Activities: Val d'Isere offers a
variety of options for non-skiers including an indoor swimming pool
and an outdoor ice-skating rink. Tandem paragliding and paragliding
lessons can be arranged via the tourist office.
Negatives: Few chalets are within
walking distance of the lifts, so skiers have to make use of the
efficient bus service. Val d'Isere is very popular and slopes get
crowded during school holidays. Val d'Isere developed quickly in the
1960's and 70's when there were few planning controls, and this is
reflected in much of the town's architecture, however since the 90's
all new buildings have had to conform with traditional styles, in
keeping with the ancient village which the town grew up around.
Val Thorens At over 2,200 metres (7,500ft),
Val Thorens is the highest ski resort in the Alps and offers
guaranteed ski-to-door accommodation. Along with Meribel and
Courchevel it forms the famous Trois Vallées ski area. Val Thorens
is a fairly ugly purpose-built resort, but its exceptional snow
reliability and wide choice of skiing makes it hard to beat for the
ski enthusiast.
Skiing: The Trois Vallées ski
area is one of the best and most extensive in the world (10 times
larger than Vail, the largest ski resort in the States), and Val
Thorens offers some of the best skiing in the area. It's possible to
ski through Meribel to Courchevel for lunch and back within a day,
but check the lift times before setting off. The slopes are high and
mostly north facing, so there's likely to be a good covering of snow
well into spring. There are a wide variety of slopes for beginners
and intermediates and some challenging slopes for more advanced
skiers higher up, including the Combe de Caron, a steep descent from
the top cable car. Val Thorens also offers access to some excellent
off-piste options, the descents towards Lac du Lou being the most
famous. Even the most experienced skiers and snowboarders should
hire a guide when going off-piste, both for safety and to find the
best snow.
Shopping: While not exactly a
shopping Mecca, Val Thorens does offer a variety of good ski shops
and plenty of provisions are available for self-caterers.
Restaurants: There is a wide
choice of restaurants in Val Thorens catering for most wallets; the
finest include Bergerie and Le Bellevillois. There are also some
good mountain restaurants and it's easy to ski over to Meribel for
lunch. As always it's best to take local advice and book ahead for
the better restaurants.
Nightlife: The nightlife in Val
Thorens is more limited than in the larger resorts, but there are
still three discos and plenty of lively bars. The clientele are less
likely to be English than in neighbouring Meribel.
Activities: For whiteout days
there is a cinema, bowling, ice skating, a gym and a swimming pool.
Parasailing can also be arranged.
Negatives: Due to its height and
north-facing location, Val Thorens can be cold and bleak and has
less off-slope activities on offer than many resorts.
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