Visit Israel, tourism Israel

Israel

Israel, or Palestine depending on your politics, is one of the world’s oldest travel destinations. Everyone from Moses to Mark Twain has dreamed of going there. The appearance of prophets seems to be dwindling and the Crusaders have long since hung up their swords and shields, but travellers still come in droves, almost magnetically, to this land still considered holy by countless millions.

The appeal of Israel’s ancient and holy past may be obvious enough but many new arrivals are surprised to see that it’s much more than a lesson in history. While Jerusalem is a dazzling amalgam of past and present, and a contested hotbed for the world's monotheistic faiths, the whole country is a tightly packed ball of everything from Mt Masada and the Negev desert to the beaches of Eilat. On a leisurely weekend you could surf, ski, sip wine, ride horses, go clubbing in Tel-Aviv or enjoy some cutting-edge theatre – and that’s just the start. You can also work on a kibbutz, volunteer at a West Bank school, float in the Dead Sea, hike across the Israel National Trail…

Like the patchwork of new arrivals at Ben-Gurion airport, Israel is an amalgamation of peoples who arrived over centuries of time, each one staking their claim to the land. Territorial disputes led to violence, which in turn made for some epic accounts in the Bible – not terribly dissimilar to what is playing out on nightly newscasts where you are today. But contrary to popular belief, Israel is not a war zone to be avoided, and it has such rigid security that travel is surprisingly safe.

Somewhere along the line, politics and the bitter facts of life in this uncertain land will nudge their way into your trip. And while Israelis and Palestinians love nothing more than to argue, muse and prognosticate over the latest political currents, it’s best to leave your own opinions at the door. Enter the Holy Land on a clean slate and you’ll never watch the nightly news the same way again.

Travel Alert: The security situation in Israel remains extremely uncertain, particularly in the border areas around the Gaza Strip and southwest Israel, and along the border with Lebanon. Check travel advisories and news services before travelling. See Safe Travel for updated government warnings and the BBC for the latest news updates.

Mapa de Israel

Muro de las lamentaciones, Jerusalem, Israel

Eliat

Wedged between Jordan and Egypt, and separated from the Israel of international headlines by 200km of desert, Eilat is a resort town where glitzy, ziggurat-like hotels line an artificial lagoon and glass-bottomed boats ply deteriorating coral reefs.

With an average winter temperature of 21°C, the town is heaving all year, but come summer the temperature rises and so does the sounds of shrieking 14 year olds in bikinis, soldiers on R & R and elderly Russian women who brook no age limit in the wearing of short shorts.

The Miami-style scene is somewhat diminished by coarse and cluttered beaches, and for most visitors Eilat’s real appeal is in its surrounding desert mountains and canyons. Divers, snorkellers, sunbathers and anyone else searching for the Red Sea’s magical underwater should head posthaste for the Egyptian Sinai.

Masada

Masada, a desert mesa rising high above the Dead Sea, figures prominently in the Israeli psyche. Shorthand for describing a kind of ‘they’ll never take us alive’ attitude, the term ‘Masada complex’ is part of modern-day Israeli parlance. The story of the siege that took place here has been adopted as a symbol for the modern Jewish state. Israeli school children visit the site as part of their curriculum and some Israel Defence Forces (IDF) units hold their swearing-in ceremonies here, replete with the oath that ‘Masada shall not fall again’. For travellers Masada is an absolute must-see. Set amid spectacular scenery, the site exudes a haunting ambience (especially before dawn) that is unforgettable.

Mar Muerto, Israel

Dead Sea

At an elevation of 400m below sea level, the Dead Sea shoreline is the lowest bit of dry real estate in the world. After the obligatory float, don't miss the ruins at Masada, which is probably Israel's most enigmatic attraction. Though not as well frequented by travellers, the hiking tracks and springs of Ein Gedi National Park also merit some exploration.

Practical Information

Costs

Israel is not a cheap country and you can expect to pay standard Western prices for most goods and services. Backpackers can expect to spend between US$20 and US$40 per day, about half of that going towards accommodation. For a little more comfort in a midrange hotel and meals other than felafel and shwarma, think about spending between US$50 and US$100 per day, or more if you don’t have someone to share a room with. To live comfortably at the top end, staying in three- and four-star hotels, dining at fine restaurants and renting a car, you can expect to spend US$120 to US$180 per day. A student card will save you some shekels at museums and historic sites. Look out for special internet-only deals for hotels.

Economy

Despite its lack of natural resources, Israel has developed a robust and diversified economy. Images of kibbutz farms are, however, a little obsolete, and the country is now a world leader in the tech industry.

As a sign of the times, Newsweek recently named Tel Aviv one of the top 10 most technologically influential cities in the world. IBM is a major player but Israel has a total of 4000 technology companies, second only to California. IT spending is nearly US$4 billion annually.

An extension of the tech boom is Israel’s manufacturing sector. The country produces aeronautical equipment, electronic and biomedical equipment and construction materials. Iscar, a world leader in metal working and metal cutting tools, recently caught the attention of American investor Warren Buffet, who bought 80% of the company for US$4 billion.

Belen, Palestina

Diamond cutting and polishing is also big business – the Israel Diamond Centre in Ramat Gan is the world’s largest diamond exchange.

Israel’s economic miracle is not entirely homegrown; the US$3 billion per year aid package (most of which is for military spending) it receives from the USA accounts for 10% of the GDP. The economy is also greatly affected by its security issues and confrontations with its neighbours. The second intifada (2001–2005) stymied economic growth, largely due to the implosion of the tourism sector. In 2000 the country received 2.4 million tourists; recent years have seen the number cut in half. War does not come cheaply either; the second Lebanon War in 2006 cost Israeli taxpayers US$1.36 billion.

Problems aside, Israelis have enjoyed the growth and the national average earning is around US$21, 000 per year, ranking Israel in the top 30 countries worldwide. Palestinians, however, have shared in little of this prosperity. Many Palestinians who worked in Israel have been cut off from work, and job prospects in their own territory are gloomy at best. The average Palestinian in Gaza makes an abysmal US$600 per year, while in the West Bank the figure is around US$1100. Poverty is estimated at around 50%. A remittance economy supported by Palestinians abroad helps to support hundreds of families.

The Palestinian economy includes a small-scale textiles industry, olive wood carvings and soap manufacturing. Olive and citrus farms still dot the countryside but land use has been affected by the construction of the Security Wall, which has slashed through open farmland. Palestinian farmers have also been severely affected by export restrictions to Israel and an inability to get their produce to market. This problem hit hard in Gaza, where vegetable growers had taken over the greenhouses left behind by departing settlers. The closure of checkpoint crossings prevented the farmers from exporting their crops and the incident became a media circus when the farmers staged a protest by throwing boxes of ripe tomatoes off the back of their trucks.

The biggest of recent blows to the Palestinian economy came in the aftermath of the Hamas election in January 2006. Hamas’ refusal to recognise the state of Israel caused international donors (the USA and the EU) to suspend aid to the Palestinian Authority, while Israel cut the transfer of US$55 million in tax receipts. Civil servants were left unpaid while the cash deficit grew by US$110 per month. Heading off a humanitarian crisis, donors have circumnavigated the Hamas government by providing food and cash aid directly to charity groups.

If and when the borders are relaxed, Palestinians can expect a return to some form of normality. Before the military crisis of 2006 boiled over, Israel had arranged for 20,000 workers to enter Israel from the West Bank and a newly constructed passenger terminal at Erez is able to handle up to 35,000 commuters per day.

Money

Moneychangers
Exchange rates vary little from place to place, but banks may charge a 4% commission. The best deals are the independent exchange bureaux common in most cities and towns, which usually do not charge a commission.

Travellers cheques
Travellers cheques may be changed at most banks, but commission charges can be as high as 20NIS, regardless of the cheque amount; instead use a no-commission exchange bureau or the post office. Post offices also operate instant Western Union international money transfer services.