Ivory Coast tourism, visit Ivory Coast

Ivory Coast

The security situation in Côte d'Ivoire is unpredictable; check Safe Travel for current government warnings.

Côte d’Ivoire was once the economic miracle of Africa and a role model for stability on the continent. Never completely breaking from their colonial masters, the post-independence leaders wooed French capital to build a modern infrastructure and considerable prosperity. The long-serving and charismatic first president, Houphouët-Boigny, promoted the notion of a happy amalgam of pragmatic Western capitalism with benign African values.

The society he presided over, however, was far from liberal and the dream ended with his death. A consequent string of coups and popular insurgencies shook the country, and northern-led rebellion in 2002 violently split it in half. Most of the huge French-expat community jumped ship, and the economy has since crumbled. However, the country abounds in some of the best natural attractions in West Africa, such as Parc National de Taï’s vast patch of rainforest and the string of beaches along the Atlantic coast. It’s also a land rich in tradition due to a diverse tribal mix that includes Dan, Lobi, Baoulé and Senoufo peoples.

Mapa de Costa de Marfil

Abidjan, Costa de Marfil

Abidjan

Abidjan, the country’s capital in all but name, has always had a mixed reputation with travellers. On one hand, it’s a glitzy, vibrant city of high-rise buildings, smart boutiques and chic Ivorian ladies clacking along in high heels on their way to restaurants of four-star Parisian quality – although the ‘Paris of West Africa’ moniker was a bit of an exaggeration, even during the boom years. On the other hand, there are the beggars, the street hawkers and now the gun-toting soldiers who seem to have slipped in from another world.

Yamoussoukro

A capital city with no embassies, government ministries or significant commercial activity, Yamoussoukro is known mainly for its basilica and other overweening excesses, all pet projects of Félix Houphouët-Boigny who was born here. It’s a sad, but interesting testament to Africa’s greatest curse – the Big Boss who can get away with anything.

Parque Nacional de Tai

Money & costs

Endeavour to bring a Visa card and euros, otherwise you’ll find obtaining CFA costly and time-consuming in Abidjan, and nearly impossible most other places. You won’t be able to pay with credit cards very often, but Sgbci and Bicici have ATMs in Abidjan, San Pédro and Yamoussoukro that reliably provide holders of Visa cards with CFA. Commission charged on travellers cheques varies significantly from bank to bank. There are no banks in rebel territory. Don’t change on the black market unless a friend makes the introduction; there is a lot of counterfeit money floating around.

Sassandra, Costa de Marfil

Getting there & away

At the time of research all borders were open, and buses and bush taxis continue to run, though this is subject to change, and only the crossing from Ghana is currently considered safe for travellers. Buses charge around US$36 to Accra from Abidjan, plus US$0.50 per kilogram for luggage. There will probably also be a whip-round at the border to cover bribes. Buy tickets a day in advance. It’s quicker to take a bush taxi from the Gare de Bassam in Abidjan to the border, walk across and continue in another car.

Côte d’Ivoire is a busy air hub, and you can reach most West African capitals and many other large cities elsewhere in Africa. Many airlines link Abidjan with Paris – only Air France and Air Ivoire fly nonstop – and prices can go as low as US$800 return. SN Brussels has a nonstop connection from Brussels.