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The country can be divided into five regions: Western, Central,
Northern (including Kashmir and Rajasthan), Eastern and Southern.India
has a rich
history and the palaces,
temples and great cities of its ancient cultures cannot fail to grip the
imagination. In the spring particularly, the big cities come alive with
concerts, plays, parties and exhibitions. Among the most spectacular
hill stations (mountain resorts which make ideal destinations in summer)
are Shimla (once the Imperial summer capital), Mussoorie, Ranikhet and
Nainital (within reach of Delhi), and West Bengal’s magnificent resort,
Darjeeling, which offers a breathtaking view of the whole Kanchenjunga
range. Along the fabled coasts of Malabar and Coromandel, unspoiled
sandy beaches stretch for miles. Skiing is possible in the silent
snowbound heights of Gulmarg and Kufri in the Himalayas. |
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Agra, India |
Where to go
The North
Delhi
Delhi has two parts: New Delhi, India’s capital and the seat of
government, is a modern city, offering wide tree-lined boulevards,
spacious parks and the distinctive style of Lutyens’ architectural
design; ‘Old’ Delhi, on the other hand, is a city several centuries old,
teeming with narrow winding streets, temples, mosques and bazaars. Must
sees include the Red Fort and the nearby Jama Masjid (India’s largest
mosque) both built in the mid-17th century at the height of the Moghul
Empire. Also of note is the Qutab Minar’s soaring tower built in 1193 by
Qutab-ud-din immediately after the defeat of Delhi’s last Hindu kingdom.
At the base of the tower is the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque built in the same
period using stone from demolished Hindu temples. Delhi attracts the
finest musicians and dancers offering an ideal opportunity to hear the
sitar, sarod and the subtle rhythm of the tabla,
and to see an enthralling variety of dance forms, each with its own
costumes and elaborate language of gestures. Theaters and cinemas show
films from all over India, and the city has some of the country’s finest
restaurants offering many styles of regional cuisine.
Uttar Pradesh
To the east of Delhi is the state of Uttar Pradesh, through which flows
the sacred River Ganges. Built along its bank is the wondrous city of
Varanasi, India’s holiest Hindu location. The town itself is a maze of
winding streets, dotted with temples and shrines. Lining the river are a
series of ghats which, at dawn, are thronged with pilgrims and holy men
performing ritual ablutions and prayers.
Delhi lies at the apex of the ‘Golden Triangle’ – an area filled with
ancient sites and monuments. In the southeast lies Agra, city of the
fabled Taj Mahal. This magnificent mausoleum was built by Shah Jahan as
a monument to his love for his wife, Mumtaz, who died in childbirth in
1631. Shah Jehan was later imprisoned by his own son in the nearby Red
Fort, another major attraction whose massive red sandstone walls rise
over 65 feet and measure 1.5 miles in circumference. Other important
landmarks are Akbar’s Palace, the Jahangir Mahal, the octagonal tower
Mussumman Burj and the Pearl Mosque. An hour outside Agra is Fatehpur
Sikri, the town Akbar built as his new capital but abandoned after only
a few years. This town is now no more than a ghost town but is
definitely worth seeing if you have time.
Rajasthan
The southwestern pivot of the triangle is Jaipur, gateway to the desert
state of Rajasthan. Known as the ‘Pink City’ because of the distinctive
color of its buildings painted in preparation for the visit of Britain’s
Prince of Wales in 1853, Jaipur is a town of broad, open avenues and
many palaces. The Amber Palace, just outside the city is spectacular and
the facade of the Palace of the Winds within the city walls is an
essential photo stop. Also worth seeing is Jai Singh’s City Palace and
the Jantar Mantar Observatory. To the southwest is the most romantic
city in Rajasthan, Udaipur, built around the lovely Lake Pichola and
famed for its Lake Palace Hotel, it has been dubbed the ‘Venice of the
East’. To the north, in the center of the Rajasthan desert, is Jodhpur,
with its colorful, winding lanes and towering fortress. Near Ajmer is
the small lakeside town of Pushkar. It is a site of religious importance
for Hindus and it is here that every November the fascinating Camel
Fair is held. Jaisalmer is a charming oasis town, once a resting
place on the old caravan route to Persia. Among its attractions are the
camel treks out into the surrounding desert.
Madhya Pradesh
To the south of the ‘Golden Triangle’ is the huge state of Madhya
Pradesh. Its greatest attractions lie close to the northern frontier.
Less than 160km (100 miles) from Agra is the great ruined fortress at
Gwalior. To the east lies Khajuraho with its famous temples and friezes
of sensuously depicted figures – a must for any visitor.
Himachal Pradesh
Less than 320km (200 miles) to the north of Delhi is Shimla, the
greatest of all hill stations, surrounded by finely scented pine forests
and the rich beauty of the Kulu Valley.
Jammu and Kashmir
In the far north, reaching into Central Asia, is the extensive mountain
region of Kashmir, formerly a popular summer resort (visitors are now
advised to consult government advice before visiting this area), and the
valley of the River Jhelum. The gateway to the region is Jammu, a town
surrounded by lakes and hills. The temples of Rambireshwar and Raghunath
number among its most impressive sights. Jammu is the railhead for
Srinagar, the ancient capital of Kashmir, and favorite resort of the
Mughal emperors. It was they who built the many waterways and gardens
around Lake Dal, complementing the natural beauty of the area. Among the
attractions are the houseboats where visitors can live on the lakes
surrounded by scenery so beautiful it is known as ‘paradise on earth’.
Srinagar is also a convenient base for trips to Gulmarg and Pahalgam.
Gulmarg offers fine trout fishing, and enjoys the distinction of having
the highest golf course in the world. From here there are good views of
Nanga Parbat, one of the highest mountains in the world. It is well
placed as a starting point for treks into the hills and mountains.
Pahalgam is another popular hill resort and base for pilgrimages to the
sacred cave of Amarnath.
More exotic, though less accessible, is the region of Ladakh, beyond the
Kashmir Valley. It is a mountainous land on the edge of the Tibetan
Plateau which is still largely Tibetan in character. The capital, Leh,
is situated high in the Karakouram mountain range, through which passed
the old Silk Road from China to India and Europe.
The West
Mumbai (Bombay)
The principal metropolis of Western India is Mumbai, the capital of the
state of Maharashtra, a bustling port and commercial center, with plate-glass
skyscrapers and modern industry jostling alongside bazaars and a hectic
streetlife. Many of the country’s films are made in the famous Mumbai
studios. The city also boasts one of the finest race tracks in India,
the Mahalaxmi course. There is a pleasant seafront with a palm-lined
promenade and attractive beaches such as Juhu, Versova, Marve, Madh and
Manori. On the waterfront is Mumbai’s best-known landmark, the Gateway
to India, whence boats leave on the 10km (6 mile) journey across the
busy harbor to the Elephanta Island. The island is famous for the eighth-century
cave temples, on whose walls are large rock carvings, the finest of
which is the three-faced Maheshmurti, the great Lord.
Maharashtra
To the east of Mumbai is Aurangabad, the starting point for visits to
two of the world’s most outstanding rock-cut temples. The Buddhist cave
temples at Ajanta date back at least 2000 years. Cut into the steep face
of a deep rock gorge, the 30 caves contain exquisite paintings depicting
daily life at that time.
The caves at Ellora depict religious stories and are Hindu, Buddhist and
Jain in origin. The Temple of Kailasa is the biggest hewn monolith
temple in the world. Southeast of Mumbai are several fine hill stations,
notably Matheran with its narrow gauge trains, and Mahabaleshwar. The
thriving city of Pune with its peaceful Bund Gardens and its cultural
attractions is also in this area.
Gujarat
To the north of Mumbai lies the state of Gujarat, renowned for its silks,
as the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, and as the last refuge of the Asian
lion, found deep in the Gir Forest. Ahmedabad, in the east of the state,
is the principal textile city of India, producing silks which are famous
throughout the world. Ahmadabad is also the site of Sabarmati Ashram,
founded by Mahatma Gandhi, from where his ideology of non-violence is
still promoted. Gandhi’s birthplace is some 320km (200 miles) to the
west, in the fishing village of Porbandar.
Goa
To the south of Maharashtra lies Goa. The 100km- (60 mile-) long
coastline offers some of the finest beaches in the subcontinent. Goa was
Portuguese until 1961, and there is also a charming blend of Latin and
Indian cultures. Panaji, the state capital, is one of the most relaxed
and elegant of India’s cities. The town is dominated by the huge
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, but the shops, bars and pleasant
streets are its main attraction. ‘Old Goa’, only a bus ride away from
Panaji, displays a bewildering variety of architectural styles.
Buildings of note include the Basilica and the Convent and Church of St
Francis of Assisi. In nearby Ponda is the 400-year-old Temple of Shri
Mangesh, which is said to be the oldest Hindu shrine.
Goa’s infamous hippies are being replaced by backpackers, Indian
visitors and package tourists. Full moon parties still take place in
Anjuna but are smaller and less authentic than in the heady days of the
1960s. Anjuna is also famous throughout Goa for its Wednesday flea
market. If you are looking for beautiful, quiet beaches head for the
South between Benaulim and Palolem. Accommodation in the region includes
the luxury resort of Aguada, the Taj holiday village and the Aguada
hermitage. There are also good, simple hotels and cottages for rent in
villages along the coastline, notably Calangute, Baga and Colva.
Goa also has several wildlife sanctuaries, including Bondla in the hills
of western Ghats, where wild boar and sambar can be seen in their
natural habitat. The region is famous for its food – an array of dishes,
both Indian and Portuguese – as well as for its colorful festivals,
including the spectacular Carnival held on the three days leading
up to Ash Wednesday.
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Gange river, India |
The South
The south is the part of India least affected by incursions of foreign
cultures through the centuries. It is here that Indian heritage has
survived in its purest form.
Chennai
The regional capital is Chennai (formerly Madras), India’s fourth-largest
city and capital of the state of Tamil Nadu. Chennai is the cradle of
the ancient Dravidian civilization, one of the oldest articulate
cultures in the world. It is also home of the classical style of Indian
dancing and a notable center of temple sculpture art. Sprawling over 130
sq km (50 sq miles), the metropolis has few tall buildings and enjoys
the relaxed ambience of a market town rather than the bustle of a huge
city. From Chennai Lighthouse there is a fine view of the city that
includes many churches which tell of the city’s strong Christian
influence, first introduced in AD 78 when the apostle St Thomas was
martyred here.
Chennai, however, is largely a commercial city and the center of the
area’s rail, air and road networks, and serves as a good starting point
from which to explore the south.
Tamil Nadu
Within the state are several important religious centers, notably
Kanchipuram, which has an abundance of temples, and whose striking
gopurams, or gateways, are decorated with sculptures of gods and
goddesses. Inland is Madurai, with a large and bustling temple, and
Thanjavur. Also worth visiting is Tiruchirappalli, which has a fortress
built atop a strange boulder-shaped hill that dominates the town.
Further south, along the coast, is Pondicherry, an attractive town with
a distinctive French style, and beyond, Rameswaram, once the ferry link
to Sri Lanka.
Kerala
To the west lies the state of Kerala, where many of India’s major
coastal resorts are to be found. Among the finest is Kovalam, offering
unspoilt beaches with increasingly modern amenities, including luxury
bungalows and a number of hotels (some including a swimming pool). Only
a few miles away is Trivandrum, the state capital with its famous
Padmanabhaswamy Temple. Further inland is the Periyar Game Sanctuary
which has a rich and varied wildlife. Other resorts include Cranganorre,
Alleppey and Kochi.
Karnataka
Further to the north is the state of Karnataka, which has fine,
unexplored beaches at Karwar, Mahe and Udupi. The state’s capital is
Bangalore, an affluent city which is the center of electronics and
engineering industries, but has many charming parks and gardens. To the
southwest lies Mysore, where incense is manufactured.
Karnataka has a number of important religious and historical sites,
including the ruins at Hampi to the north of Bangalore, and the vast
statue of Lord Bahubali at Sravanabelagola, north of Mysore.
Andhra Pradesh
To the east of Karnataka is the state of Andhra Pradesh, with its
capital at Hyderabad, offering a well-stocked one-man museum.
Visakhapatnam, the fourth-largest port, is 220km (350 miles) to the east.
Andaman Islands
Far away to the east across the Bay of Bengal are the Andaman Islands, a
lushly forested archipelago which has exotic plant life and a wide
variety of corals and tropical fish, making it a major attraction for
snorkeling enthusiasts. The islands’ capital, Port Blair, can be reached
from Chennai and Kolkata (Calcutta) by boat or air. Visitors should note
that the islands are subject to special entry restrictions and a
Restricted Area Permit may be required; see the Passport/Visa
section for details.
The East
Kolkata (Calcutta)
The largest city in India and hub of the east is Kolkata, the capital of
West Bengal. Established as a British trading post in the 17th century,
it grew rapidly into a vibrant center. Its colonial heritage is
reflected in the buildings of Chowringhee Street and Clive Street, now
Jawaharlal Nehru Road and Netaji Subhash Road. The city is filled with
life and energy. It is a major business center and offers fine markets
and bazaars. It is also the center of much of the country’s creative and
intellectual activity, including the subcontinent’s best film-makers.
Central Kolkata (Calcutta) is best viewed from the Maidan, the central
area of parkland where early morning yoga sessions take place. The city’s
Indian Museum is one of the finest in Asia. Other attractions include
the white marble Victoria Memorial, the Ochterlony Monument (Sahid
Minar) and the headquarters of the Rama Krishna movement. Across the
river are the Kali Temple of Dakshineshwasar (Belur Math headquarters of
Ramakrishna Movement) and the Botanical Gardens.
Bihar and Orissa
To the west is the state of Bihar, with the religious center of Bodhgaya,
a sacred place for both Hindus and Buddhists. To the south, in the state
of Orissa, are three temple cities. Foremost is Bhubaneswar, a town in
which there once stood no less than 7000 temples, 500 of which have
survived. Largest of these is the great Lingaraja Temple,
dedicated to Lord Shiva. A short journey away to the south of
Bhubaneswar lies Puri, one of the four holiest cities in India, now
being developed as a beach resort. In June and July, Puri stages one of
India’s most spectacular festivals, the Rath Yatra or ‘Car
Festival’, at which pilgrims pay homage to images of gods drawn on
massive wooden chariots. A short distance along the coast to the north
is Konarak, known for its ‘Black Pagoda’ – a huge solitary temple to the
sun god in the form of a chariot drawn by horses. The sculpture has a
sensuous nature similar to that of Khajuraho, and is counted amongst the
finest in India.
Darjeeling
To the north of Kolkata (Calcutta) is one of the great railway journeys
of the world, the ‘Toy Train’ to Darjeeling. The last part of the line
runs through jungle, tea gardens and pine forests. Darjeeling straddles
a mountain slope which drops steeply to the valley below, and commands
fine views of Kanchenjunga (8586m/28,169ft), the third-highest mountain
in the world. It is the headquarters of the Indian Mountaineering
Institute, as well as the birthplace of Sherpa Tenzing. It is also a
world-renowned tea-growing center.
A bus journey of two-and-a-half hours takes one to Kalimpong, a bazaar
town at the foot of the Himalayas. From here a number of treks can be
made to places offering fine panoramas of the mountains.
Sikkim
Further north is the mountain state of Sikkim. The capital, Gangtok,
lies in the southwest. The main activity for visitors is trekking,
although it is still in its infancy and facilities are minimal. At the
moment, travel for non-Indian residents is limited. Trekking is allowed
only in groups, while individuals may only visit Gangtok, Rumtek and
Phodom. The nearest railheads are Darjeeling and Siliguri, on the slow
but spectacular line of India’s northeast frontier railway.
Assam and Meghalaya
Even further to the east are the states of Assam and Meghalaya. Assam is
famous for tea and wildlife reserves, and can be reached from the state
capital of Guwahati. The tiger reserve of Manas is also rich in other
varieties of wildlife, while in Kaziranga it is possible to see the one-horned
rhinoceros of India.
Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, is the home of the Khasi people. The
region is filled with pine groves, waterfalls and brooks and is
described as the ‘Scotland of the East’.
Beach Resorts
India’s coast has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Below
are listed both well-known resorts, such as Goa, and several lesser-known
beaches. Hotel facilities and accommodation are also indicated. Further
information may be obtained by consulting the main Where to Go
sections. Major beaches include:
Goa
Baga Beach, Calangute and Colva Beach. 5-star hotels with private
beaches: Cidade de Goa, Fort Aguada Beach Resort and Oberoi Bogmalo
Beach. It has reasonably priced hotels, tourist cottages, a tourist
resort and youth hostels.
Mumbai
Juhu Beach; crowded 5-star hotel complex.
Kovalam
Ashok Beach resort. 5-star hotel complex, including beach cottages,
Halcyon Castle and Kovalam Palace Hotel. Hotel Samudra, Kerala Tourism
Development Corporation, is reasonably priced. Kovalam Beach gets
crowded during the peak tourist season (November to March).
Chennai Region
Fisherman’s Cove at Covelong beach resort; shore cottages by the shore
temples at Mamallapuram (which also has a beach resort).
Puri
3- and 4-star hotels, tourist bungalows, youth hostels. Major Hindu
pilgrim center.
Lesser-known beaches
These include: Andhra Pradesh: Bheemunipatnam, Machilipatnam, Maipadu
and Mangiripundi. Goa: Ankola, Bhatkal, Gokarna, Honnavar and Karwar.
Gujarat: Chorwad, Dahanu, Daman (UT), Diu (UT), Dwarka, Hajira, Tithal
and Ubhrat. Cheap hotels, holiday homes. Karnataka: Mahe (UT), Mangalore,
Udupi (Hindu pilgrim center) and Ullal (smaller beach resort, Summer
Sands, cottages). Kerala: Cannanore, Quilon, Varkala. Maharashtra: Off
Mumbai – Madh, Manori and Marve. Cheap hotels – Murud Janjira. Holiday
homes – Erangal. Orissa: Golpalpur on Sea, Oberoi Hotel. Tamil Nadu:
Kanya Kumari, Karikal (UT), Pondicherry (UT), Rameswaram and Tiruchendur.
West Bengal: Digha – reasonably priced hotels, tourist bungalows.
Note: UT = Union Territory.
Hill Stations
Hill stations have long been popular among Indians and foreign visitors
alike for providing a relaxing and salubrious retreat from the heat of
the plains. Further information on some of the places mentioned here may
be found by consulting the information above.
Popular hill stations
These include: Kashmir: Leh in Ladakh, Pahalgam, Srinagar and Gulmarg
for lakes, houseboats, good hotels, tourist reception centers. Himachal
Pradesh: Shimla (various types of hotels, tourist bungalows), nearby
Kufri (winter sports center, skating rink, skiing facilities), Kulu,
Manali (reasonably priced hotels, log huts, travelers lodges and tourist
bungalows). Uttar Pradesh: Nainital boasts a lake boat club, Almora,
Mussoorie, Ranikhet (reasonably priced hotels, tourist bungalows, clubs,
youth hostels), Ropeway (hotels and tourist bungalows). West Bengal:
Darjeeling, RA, Kalimpong for mountaineering. Maharashtra: Khandala,
Lonavla, Mahabaleshwar, Matheran, and Panchgani. Meghalaya: Shillong.
Sikkim: Gangkok (RA, hotels). Tamil Nadu: Ootacamund, Udagamandalam,
Kodaikanal and Silvery Lake – hotels, tourist bungalows.
Lesser-known hill stations
These include: Himachal Pradesh: Chamba, Dalhousie, Dharamsala, Kangra,
Keylong, Nahan and Paonta Saheb. Kashmir: Batote and Sonamarg. Uttar
Pradesh: Dehra Dun and Lansdown. West Bengal: Mirik. Madhya Pradesh:
Pachmarhi. Maharashtra: Panhala. Gujarat: Saputara. Rajasthan: Mount Abu.
Tamil Nadu: Coonoor, Kotagiri and Yercaud. Kerala: Munnar, Periyar and
Ponmundi. Karnataka: Mercara. Andhra Pradesh: Horseley Hills. Bihar:
Netarhat. Assam: Haflong.
Trekking
Below is a description of the most important trekking areas in India.
For further practical details on trekking, see the Activities
section.
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Jammu and Kashmir
Jammu and Kashmir is India’s northernmost state, and the one which is
best-known for trekking. It is an extravagantly beautiful land of flower-spangled
meadows, wild orchards, spectacular coniferous forests, icy mountain
peaks and clear streams and rivers. The capital, Srinagar, is the base
for many treks, notably to the blue Zabarwan Hills and Shankaracharya
Hill. The three other main bases in Jammu & Kashmir are Pahalgam
(100km/62 miles from Srinigar) in the Lidder Valley, the base for treks
to sacred Amarnath, Aru, Lidderwat and the glacial lakes of Tarsar and
Tulian; Gulmarg (51km/32 miles from Srinagar), from which treks can be
made to the crystal tarns of Apharwat and Alpather, the upland lakes of
Vishansar and Gangabal and the Thajiwas Glacier; and Sonamarg, in the
Sindh Valley, the base for treks into the surrounding mountains.
Srinagar is also the roadhead for trips into the arid plateau of Ladakh,
a country of perpetual drought, the home of wild asses and yaks and with
high ranges that have some of the largest glaciers in the world outside
the polar regions. Leh, the divisional capital, lies on an ancient Silk
Road and is the base for spectacular treks across this remarkable
landscape.
Further south, excellent trekking may be had in the vicinity of Jammu,
the railhead to the Kashmir Valley. The three main centers are Kishtwar,
Doda and Poonch.
Himachal Pradesh
The landscape of this province ranges from the barren rocks and raging
torrents of the valleys of Spiti and Lahaul in the north to the southern
orchard country of Kangra and Chamba. Treks from Manali include the
Bhaga River to Keylong, and then on to the Bara Shigri glacier or over
the Baralacha Pass to Leh (see above). Kullu, in the center of the
province, is set in a narrow valley between the towering Himalayas and
the River Beas, and is famous for its temples and religious festivals.
Treks from here traverse terraced paddy fields and on to remoter regions
of snow and ice. The view from the Rohtang Pass is particularly
spectacular. The town of Dharamsala, in the Kangra Valley area, is the
base for treks into the Bharmaur Valley over the Indrahar Pass, and on
to other still higher passes beyond. Chamba, situated on a mountain
above the Ravi River, is named after the fragrant trees which flourish
around its richly carved temples. Treks from the nearby town of
Dalhousie lead to the glacial lake of Khajjiar and to the passes of Sach
and Chini. Shimla, once the summer capital of the British, is a high
hill station and the base for treks into Kullu Valley via the Jalori
Pass and on to the Kalpur and Kinnaur valleys.
Garhwal
Set high in the Garhwal Himalayas, this region (which is sometimes
referred to as the Uttarakhand) abounds in myths and legends of the
Indian gods. It is also where the source of the life-giving ‘Ganga’ is
to be found; indeed, many of the great rivers of northern India have
their headwaters in this land of lush valleys and towering snow-ridged
peaks. Mussoorie, a hill station much used by the British to escape the
searing heat of the plains, is an excellent base for treks into the
Gangotri and Yamounotri valleys. The source of the Ganga at Gaumukh can
also be reached from here. Another hill station, Rishikesh, is situated
just north of the sacred city of Hardwar, and is the base for treks to
another holy shrine, Badrinath. A particularly rewarding stop en route
to Badrinath is the breathtaking Valley of Flowers, which is in full
bloom in August. Other destinations include Hemkund Lake, Mandakini
Valley and Kedarnath, one of the 12 Jyotirlings of Lord Shiva with a
beautiful temple.
Kumaon
This region, which stretches from the Himalayas in the north to the
green foothills of Terai and Bhabar in the south, consists of the three
northeastern Himalayan districts of Uttar Pradesh, all of which are
particularly rich in wildlife. One of the major trekking centers is
Almora, an ideal base for treks into pine and rhododendron forests with
dramatic views of stark, snow-capped mountains. The Pindiri Glacier and
the valley of Someshwar can be reached from here. Another base is
Nanital, a charming, orchard-rich hill station. It is the base for short
treks to Bhimtal, Khurpatal and Binayak Forest. Ranikhet, with a
magnificent view of the central Himalayas, is the base for treks to
Kausani. The view from here is one of the most spectacular in India, and
inspired Mahatma Gandhi to pen his commentary on the Gita-Anashakti
Yoga.
Darjeeling and Sikkim
Dominated by the five summits of mighty Kanchenjunga, the Darjeeling and
Sikkim area of the Eastern Himalayas is also a region of gentle hills
and dales, pine forests, turquoise lakes and babbling streams. One of
the best ways of arriving in the area is by the ‘Toy Train’ from New
Jalpaiguri. The town of Darjeeling is the home of the Everest-climber
Tenzing Norgay and also of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, and
is the base for both low- and high-level treks. Destinations include
Tiger Hill (offering a breathtaking view of the Himalayas), and the
peaks of Phalut, Sandakphu, Singalila and Tanglu. To the north, Sikkim
is a wonderland of ferns and flowers, birds and butterflies, orchids and
bamboo, forests of cherry, oak and pine, all set among slowly flowing
rivers, terraced paddy fields and blazing rhododendrons. Deep in the
interior are Sikkim’s famous monasteries, their white prayer flags
fluttering against a deep blue sky. The capital is Gangtok, a convenient
base for treks into the mysterious north and east of the region, to
sacred Yaksum, Pemayangtse and the mountains near Bakkhim and Dzongri.
Aravalli Hills
The Aravallis, remnants of the oldest mountain range in the subcontinent,
resemble outcroppings of rocks rather than mountains and are virtually
barren except for thorny acacias and date palm groves found near the
oases. The main resort in the region, Mount Abu, stands on an isolated
plateau surrounded by rich green forest. A variety of one-day treks are
available from here, all of which afford the opportunity to visit some
of the remarkable temples in the region, notably Arbuda Devi Temple,
carved out of the rock face and offering spectacular views across the
hills. Guru Shikhar, Gaumukh and Achalgarh Fort can all be reached
during one-day treks from Mount Abu.
Satpura Range
This range straddles central India and forms the northern border of the
Deccan. The main hill station is Pachmarhi, a beautiful resort of green
forest glades and deep ravines overlooking red sandstone hills. Short
treks can be had from here to the Mahadeo and Dhupgarh peaks.
Western Ghats
The Western Ghats run parallel to the west coast of India from the River
Tapti to the southernmost tip of the subcontinent. The mountains are
lush and thickly forested and although they cannot claim to have the
awesome majesty of the great Himalayas, the region has many features of
great natural beauty. The hill station of Mahabaleshwar, in the north of
the range, is the highest in the area and is considered an ideal base
for trekkers. Other popular bases and trekking destinations include
Lonavala, Khandala, Matheran and Bhor Ghat, a picturesque region of
waterfalls, lakes and woods. Further south in Karnataka is Coorg,
perched on a green hilltop and surrounded by mountainous countryside.
Madikeri is a take-off point for treks in this region. The Upper Palani
hills in Tamil Nadu are an offshoot of the Ghats, covered in rolling
downs and coarse grass. Kodaikanal is the attractive base for two short
treks to Pilar Rock and Green Valley View. Courtallam, also in Tamil
Nadu, is surrounded by dense vegetation and coffee and spice plantations;
rich in wildlife, it is also one of the most beautiful areas of the
Western Ghats.
Nilgiris
The gentle heights of southern India, a world away from the daunting
Himalayas, are friendly and approachable with treks made simple by
moderate altitudes and a pleasant climate. Sometimes known as the Blue
Mountains because of their lilac hue, they are noted for their orange
orchards, tea gardens, wooded slopes and tranquil lakes. There are three
major trekking centers here: Ootacamund (popularly known as Ooty) is the
base for walks to the Wenlock Downs, the Kalahatti Falls and Mudumali
Game Sanctuary; Coonoor, conveniently situated for Drogg’s Peak and Lamb’s
Rock; and Kotagiri, the oldest of the three, whose sheltered position
enables it to offer many shaded treks to explore the tranquility of the
Nilgiris.
Wildlife
The Indian peninsula is a continent in itself, the geographical
diversity of which has resulted in a vast range of wildlife, with over
350 species of mammals and 1200 species of birds in the country. There
are 90 national parks and 411 wildlife sanctuaries in the country. Each
region has something special to offer: the hangul is restricted to the
valley of Kashmir in northern India, the rhino is found in isolated
pockets along the Brahmaputra River in the east, the black langur in the
Western Ghats, and Western India is the home of the last remaining
Asiatic lions. Two of India’s most impressive animals, the Bengal (or
Indian) tiger and the Asiatic
elephant are still found in most regions, though their population has
shrunk drastically.
Most of India’s wildlife finds refuge in over 200 sanctuaries and parks
around the country. The following list refers to some of the more
important of these. Accommodation often needs to be booked in advance,
either by direct application or through the local State ITDC or the
controlling authority of the respective park.
Northern India
Dachigam Wildlife Sanctuary (Kashmir): Broad valley; mountain slopes;
rare hangul deer, black and brown bear, leopard; heronry.
Govind Sagar Bird Sanctuary (Himachal Pradesh): Bird sanctuary with
crane, duck, goose and teal.
Corbett National Park (Uttar Pradesh): Himalayan foothills near Dhikala;
Sal forest and plains; tiger, elephant, leopard and rich birdlife.
Excellent fishing in Ramganga River.
Dudhwa National Park (Uttar Pradesh): Nepal border; tiger, sloth bear
and panther.
Valley of Flowers National Park (Uttar Pradesh): When in bloom this
‘roof garden’ at 3500m (11,500ft) is a glorious blaze of color. Permits
are required to enter.
Sariska National Park (Rajasthan): About 200km (125 miles) from Delhi.
Forest and open plains; sambar (largest Indian deer), cheetal (spotted
deer), nilgai (Indian antelope), black buck, leopard and tiger; good
night-viewing.
Ranthambhor (Sawai Madhopur – Rajasthan): Hill forest, plains and lakes;
sambar, chinkara (Indian gazelle), tiger, sloth bear, crocodiles and
migratory water-birds.
Bharatpur National Park (Keoloadeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary) (Rajasthan):
India’s most outstanding bird sanctuary; many indigenous water-birds;
huge migration from Siberia and China; crane, goose, stork, heron,
snakes, birds, etc.
Bandhavgarh National Park (Madhya Pradesh): Situated in the Vindhyan
Mountains, this park has a wide variety of wildlife including panther,
sambar and gaur.
Kanha National Park (Madhya Pradesh): Sal forest and grassland; only
home of barasingha (swamp deer), tiger, cheetal and gaur.
Shivpuri National Park (Madhya Pradesh): Open forest and lake; chinkara,
chowsingha (four-horned antelope), nilgai, tiger, leopard and water-birds.
Western India
Krishnagiri Upavan National Park (Maharashtra): Formerly known as
Borivli, this park protects an important scenic area close to Mumbai
(Bombay). Kanheri Caves and Vihar, Tulsi and Powai lakes; water-birds
and smaller types of wildlife. Lion Safari Park nearby.
Tadoba National Park (Maharashtra): Teak forests and lake; tiger,
leopard, nilgai and gaur. Night-viewing.
Sasan Gir National Park (Gujarat): Forested plains and lake; only home
of Asiatic lion, sambar, chowsingha, nilgai, leopard, chinkara and wild
boar.
Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary (Gujarat): Lake; migratory water-birds;
indigenous birds include flamingo.
Little Rann of Kutch Wildlife Sanctuary (Gujarat): Desert; herds of khur
(Indian wild ass), wolf and caracal.
Velavadar National Park (Gujarat): New Delta grasslands; large
concentration of black buck.
Southern India
Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary (Kerala): Large artificial lake; elephant,
gaur, wild dog, black langur, otters, tortoises and rich birdlife
including hornbill and fishing owl. Viewing by boat.
Vedanthangal Water Birds Sanctuary (Tamil Nadu): One of the most
spectacular breeding grounds in India. Cormorant, heron, stork, pelican,
grebe and many others.
Point Calimere Bird Sanctuary (Tamil Nadu): Particularly noted for its
flamingo, also for heron, teal, curlew and plover, black buck and wild
pig.
Pulicat Bird Sanctuary (Andhra Pradesh): Flamingo, grey pelican, heron
and tern.
Dandeli National Park (Karnataka): Park with bison, panther, tiger and
sambar. Easily accessible from Goa.
Jawahar National Park (includes Bandipur and Nagarhole National Parks (Karnataka),
and the Wildlife Sanctuaries of Mudumalai (Tamil Nadu) and Wayanad (Kerala):
Extensive mixed forest; largest elephant population in India, leopard,
gaur, sambar, muntjac and giant squirrel. Birds include racquet-tailed
drongo, trogon and barbet.
Eastern India
Kaziranga National Park (Assam): Elephant grass and swamps; one-horned
Indian rhinoceros, water buffalo, tiger, leopard, elephant, deer and
rich birdlife. Elephant transport is available within the park.
Manas Wildlife Sanctuary (Assam): On the Bhutan border, rainforest,
grassland and river banks; rhino, water buffalo, tiger, elephant, golden
langur and water-birds; fishing permitted.
Nameri National Park (Assam): Tiger and water-birds; fishing permitted.
Palamau Tiger Reserve (Bihar): Rolling, forested hills; tiger, leopard,
elephant, sambar, jungle cat, rhesus macaque (monkey) and, occasionally,
wolf.
Hazaribagh National Park (Bihar): Sal forested hills; sambar, nilgai,
cheetal, tiger, leopard and occasionally muntjac (larger barking deer).
Sundarbans Tiger Reserve (West Bengal): Mangrove forests; tiger, fishing
cat, deer, crocodile, dolphin and rich birdlife. Access and travel by
chartered boat.
Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary (West Bengal): Tropical forest and
grassland; rhino, elephant and rich birdlife.
Similipal Tiger Reserve (Orissa): Immense Sal forest; tiger, elephant,
leopard, sambar, cheetal, muntjac and chevrotain.
Chilika Wildlife (Bird) Sanctuary (Orissa): Migratory birds, flamingo,
Siberian ducks, heron and Teal Comorant.
What to do
Trekking
India is the ideal destination for a trekking holiday, offering
everything from short and easy excursions to the long challenges of the
snowy peaks. The highest mountain range on earth – the Himalayas – forms
3500km (2200 miles) of India’s northern and eastern frontiers. The
spectacle of the snow-capped peaks, glaciers, pine-forested slopes,
rivers and lush meadows of wild flowers cannot be equaled. Peninsular
India offers natural beauty of another kind, clothed in green woodland
and fragrant orchards. (For further details on the main trekking areas,
see Trekking in the Where to Go section.) No system
of issuing trekking permits
exists in India. Trekkers are, however, reminded that it is forbidden to
enter Restricted and Protected Areas without the correct documentation.
Consult Incredible India before departure or local tourist offices on
arrival in India to ascertain what restrictions may apply and what
documentation may be required. The trekking season varies from region to
region; check with Incredible India for further information (see
General Info section). In general, it runs from April to June and
September to November. It is possible to undertake treks in the valleys
of Lahaul, Pangi and Zanskar and in Ladakh during the rainy season (June
to August), as these areas receive minimal precipitation.
Board and lodging accommodation is available on all trekking routes.
Essential equipment includes a tent, sleeping bag, foam/inflatable
mattress, rucksack, umbrella (doubles as a walking stick), sun-hat, dark
glasses, toilet requirements. The best clothing is a windproof jacket,
trousers, shirts, woolen pullover, woolen underwear (for high
altitudes), and gloves. Be sure to take a light, flexible and
comfortable pair of trekking boots (two pairs should be taken for longer
treks) and at least three pairs of woolen socks. Use talc to keep feet
dry. A first aid kit is recommended, as are anti-sunburn cream, morphia
salt tablets to avoid cramps, a torch, thermos/water bottle, insect
repellent, mirror, cold cream, lip-salve, walking stick, spare boot
laces, sewing kit, tinned and dehydrated food.
Watersports
India has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, the most
popular ones being in the southern states of Goa and Kerala. But though
the beaches are stunning, the waters, particularly in the south, can be
quite treacherous, with big waves and strong currents creating hazardous
conditions for inexperienced swimmers. To make up for the rough seas,
most large hotels now have swimming pools, and there are facilities for
a wide range of watersports including sailing, rowing and water-skiing.
(For further details on beach resorts, see Beach Resorts in the
Where to Go section.) The Andaman Islands and Lakshadweep Islands
off the southern coast are noted for their white-sand, deserted beaches
and excellent swimming and scuba-diving (but visitors should note that
they may require a special permit to visit; see Passport/Visa
section). Whitewater rafting is a young sport in India; the snow-fed
mountain rivers of the northern Himalayas place them among the best
regions in the world for this sport. Fishing is also available,
particularly in the Kangra Valley and Shimla, in Darjeeling and Orissa
and throughout the Himalayas. Tackle can often be hired from local
fishing authorities. Check with the local tourist office for details of
seasons and licenses.
Outdoor activities
Camel safaris can be taken in the Thar desert and range from one to 15
days’ duration; an ideal way to visit this fascinating region. Delhi is
the country’s center for rock climbing, also available in the Aravalli
Hills and the Western Ghats. Permission for mountaineering must
be obtained from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, 6 Benito Juarez
Road, New Delhi 110 021 (tel: (11) 2467 1211; fax: (11) 2688 3412.. Hang
gliding, ballooning and gliding are also becoming more widely available
for those who wish to obtain a bird’s-eye view of some of the landscape.
Skiing is fast becoming a popular sport, and facilities are offered by
some resorts in the north of the country (including Gulmarg and Kufri),
set in some of the most beautiful mountain landscape in the world. Horse
riding is available in hill stations.
Spectator sports
One of the great Indian sports is cricket. Interest in the game reaches
almost fever pitch, particularly during the winter test season when the
country’s national team is in action in all the major cities. Club
matches can also be seen in almost every town. Other popular spectator
sports include polo and hockey, sports at which the Indians have long
excelled, winning many Olympic gold medals in the latter. Interest in
football is increasing.
Golf
Enthusiasts will find many courses open to visitors throughout India;
enquire at major hotels for details of temporary membership. Calcutta
Amateur Golf Championships attract large numbers of serious golfers
in the east; the standards are high, and for those interested, temporary
membership is available from the Royal Kolkata (Calcutta) Golf Club.
Gulmarg and Srinagar have good courses and hold tournaments in the
spring and autumn, with Gulmarg enjoying the reputation of being the
highest golf course in the world. The course at Shillong is widely
regarded as being one of the most beautiful in the world. |
