Visit Lebanon, tourism Lebanon

Lebanon

Coolly combining the ancient with the ultramodern, Lebanon is one of the most captivating countries in the Middle East. From the Phoenician findings of Tyre (Sour) and Roman Baalbek's tremendous temple to Beirut's BO18 and Bernard Khoury's modern movement, the span of Lebanon's history leaves many visitors spinning. Tripoli (Trablous) is considered to have the best souk in the country and is famous for its Mamluk architecture. It's well equipped with a taste of modernity as well; Jounieh, formerly a sleepy fishing village, is a town alive with nightclubs and glitz on summer weekends.

With all of the Middle East's best bits - warm and welcoming people, mind-blowing history and considerable culture, Lebanon is also the antithesis of many people's imaginings of the Middle East: mostly mountainous with skiing to boot, it's also laid-back, liberal and fun. While Beirut is fast becoming the region's party place, Lebanon is working hard to recapture its crown as the 'Paris of the Orient'.

Mapa de Líbano

Mezquita Emir Assaf, Beirut, Libano

Tyre (Sour)

Tyre, 81km from Beirut, has a long and colourful history. Suffering dreadfully during the civil war and from Israeli incursions, the city remains full of Unifil troops, more than 13, 000 of whom are stationed throughout the South. Predominantly Shiite like most of the South, you’ll probably notice, on the outlying roads toward the city centre, scores of posters depicting Hassan Nasrallah, the Shiite cleric and Secretary-General of Hezbollah, and Iranian clerics and leaders including the Ayatollah Khomeini.

Tyre, like much of the South, has traditionally met with indifference at the hands of Beirut’s Maronite power brokers. Nevertheless, determined to override its troubles, you’ll find the people warm and welcoming and the city definitely warrants a visit – if only a day trip from Beirut – for its souqs and wealth of Unesco World Heritage–listed Roman remains.

Baalbek

Baalbek, the ‘Sun City’ of the ancient world, is home to the most impressive ancient site in Lebanon and arguably the most important Roman site in the Middle East. The ancient city has long enjoyed a reputation as one of the wonders of the world and mystics still attribute special powers to the courtyard complex. Its temples were built on an extravagant scale that outshone anything in Rome, and the town became a centre of worship well into the Christian era. Standing beneath the temple’s colossal columns, watching the setting sun turn the stone a rich orange, is a highlight of any visit to Lebanon.

Modern Baalbek is the administrative centre of northern Bekaa Valley and is home to one of the most historic, atmospheric hotels in the whole Middle East. There are numerous reminders of Hezbollah’s supremacy here (their yellow and green flags are everywhere), but the town’s population is mixed Muslim/Christian, and you won’t see masked militia men brandishing Kalashnikovs on the streets. According to locals, the armed wing is situated elsewhere; here, it’s long-term policies, rather than long-range missiles, that concern its party members.

Since Baalbek is, nevertheless, a conservative region of Lebanon, it makes sense not to wander around in shorts – both men and women – or any other kind of revealing clothing, though you’ll undoubtedly see a few Lebanese women from out of town strutting their stuff, and snagging their stilettos on Baalbek’s pavestones.

An internationally famous arts event, Baalbek Festival takes place here every summer (July and August) and features opera, jazz, poetry and theatre. In 2006, it was cancelled due to the Israel–Hezbollah war, but most years it strides on regardless of the political or economic climate.

Biblos, Líbano

Beirut

What Beirut is depends entirely on where you are. If you’re gazing at the beautifully reconstructed colonial relics and mosques of central Beirut’s Downtown, the city is a triumph of rejuvenation over disaster. If you’re in the young, vibrant neighbourhoods of Gemmayzeh or Achrafiye, Beirut is about living for the moment: partying, eating and drinking as if there’s no tomorrow.

If you’re standing in the shadow of buildings still peppered with bullet holes, or walking the Green Line with an elderly resident, it’s a city of bitter memories and a dark past. If you’re with Beirut’s Armenians, Beirut is about salvation; if you’re with its handful of Jews, it’s about hiding your true identity. Here you’ll find the freest gay scene in the Arab Middle East, yet homosexuality is still illegal. If you’re in one of Beirut’s southern refugee camps, Beirut is about sorrow and displacement; other southern districts are considered a base for paramilitary operations and south Beirut is home to infamous Hezbollah secretary general, Hassan Nasrallah. For some, it’s a city of fear; for others, freedom.

Throw in maniacal drivers, air pollution from old, smoking Mercedes taxis, world-class universities, bars to rival Soho and coffee thicker than mud, political demonstrations, and swimming pools awash with more silicone than Miami. Add people so friendly you’ll swear it can’t be true, a political situation existing on a knife-edge, internationally renowned museums and gallery openings that continue in the face of explosions, assassinations and power cuts, and you’ll find that you’ve never experienced a capital city quite so alive and kicking – despite its frequent volatility.

Bacharré

A pretty, welcoming town in the heart of the Qadisha Valley, Bcharré is a terrific place for stopping off en-route to the Cedars or to base yourself for a few days while exploring the wild valley below. Famous as the birthplace of Khalil (or Kahlil, as some locals insist) Gibran and the stronghold of the right-wing Maronite Christian Phalange party, the town makes a pleasant stroll and a good place to stock up on picnic provisions to fill your rucksack.

Ruta de los cedros Bcharre, Líbano

Beirut

Travel Alert: The security situation in Triploi is dangerous for travellers. Check out Safe Travel or the Thorn Tree travel forum for advice from travellers.

Tripoli (Trablous in Arabic), 85km north of Beirut, is Lebanon’s second-largest city and the north’s main port. Famous for its medieval Mamluk architecture, old city souq, huge fortress and teeth-clenchingly sweet pastries, its charms were sadly overshadowed in 2007 by the deadly and drawn-out confrontation between Palestinian militants and the Lebanese army, centred on the Nahr al-Bared refugee camp around 16km from the city centre. On 20 May 2007, militants and Lebanese police began battling it out in Tripoli itself, before fighting moved to Nahr al-Bared; Lebanese soldiers finally took control of the camp in September 2007. Alleged ties between the militant group and Al-Qaeda lent events a particularly sinister and gloomy edge.

Its image tarnished as a result, Tripoli is currently struggling to entice tourists back to its markets and monuments. Certainly, there’s plenty to keep a visitor entertained for a couple of days, and with one good budget hotel and one excellent top-end choice, there are accommodation options for every pocket. Since few tourists currently make it this far north, you’ll have no problem finding an available room or restaurant table.

If you’re arriving direct from Beirut, though, you may be in for something of a culture shock. Tripoli may be Lebanon’s second-largest city, but in many ways it couldn’t be more different. Where Beirut is glitzy, Tripoli is demure and down-to-earth. Though there is some nightlife to be had, it’s low key and based in the port of Al-Mina rather than in Tripoli proper. It’s wise, therefore, to dress down a little, leaving your best figure-hugging combinations for the streets and clubs of the capital.

Byblos

With its picturesque ancient fishing harbour, Roman remains, Crusader castle and beautifully restored souq, many visitors fall in love at first sight with Byblos. In existence before the great civilisations of the Middle East were even thought of, Byblos – known as Gebal in the Bible and, less romantically, as Giblet by the Crusaders – lays claim to being one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited towns. It’s also known as the birthplace of the modern alphabet. Its ancient name is thought to derive from the Greek bublos, meaning papyrus, since the town was once a Phoenician stopping-off place for papyrus shipments en route to Egypt. Although only around 40km from Beirut, the harbour, ruins and old town feel a world away and it’s a must-see place on any visit to Lebanon, however long or short.

Back in the more glamorous days of the ’60s, Byblos was a favourite watering hole for the crews of visiting private yachts, international celebrities, and the Mediterranean jet set. These days, however, visitors are lower-key and come for a wander around the ruins, a seaside seafood feast, and a lazy afternoon admiring the shimmering harbour. Don’t miss, too, the amazing Mémoire du Temps fossil museum and shop in the heart of the old souqs.