Imperial Cities
Fès, Marrakech, Meknes and Rabat are known as the Imperial Cities,
each having been the country’s capital at some time during its
history.
Rabat
Rabat, the present capital of Morocco, was founded in the 12th
century. It is a town of trees and flowers, and many monumental
gateways, including the Gate of the Ambassadors and the Oudaias
Kasbah Gate. There is a good selection of hotels and numerous
pavement cafes. The nearby Mamora forest and the many beaches are
popular tourist attractions, particularly during the summer.
Other attractions
include Tour Hassan, the grandiose
minaret of a vast, uncompleted 12th-century mosque; the Mohammed V
Mausoleum, an outstanding example of traditional Moroccan
architecture; the Royal Palace; the Chellah, with superb monuments,
delightful gardens and Roman ruins; the Oudaias; the
Archaeological Museum; the National Museum of Handicrafts and the
antique Moorish cafe. The battlements surrounding the old town,
and part of the new city, date from the mid-12th century. Also
worth a visit is Salé, Rabat’s twin city, at the opposite side of
the river, believed to have been founded in the 11th century.
Meknes
Meknes is protected by 25km (16 miles) of battlements, flanked by
towers and bastions. The city reflects the power and the
constructive genius of King Moulay Ismail, a contemporary of Louis
XIV, who ruled the country for 55 years. The Michlifen and Djebel
Habri are two ski resorts above Meknes. The city boasts a
wonderful souk (market) and the old town is listed by
UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Excursions
About 30km (19 miles) from Meknes, the Roman ruins at Volubilis
are also on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Excavations and ruins
dating back to the third century can be visited for a small
admission fee and there is also an interesting archaeological
museum.
Fès
Fès is the most ancient and impressive of the imperial cities.
Built in the eighth century, it has more history and mystery than
anywhere else in Morocco. Officially encompassing two cities – El
Bali and Jadid – Fès is famous for the Nejjarine Square and
Fountain, the Er Rsif and Andalous (Al-Andalus) mosques, the Royal
Palace, the Kasbah and Karaouine (Al-Qarawiyin) University, which
is older than Oxford University. The Dar Bath Museum is also worth
a visit. The old part of the city – Fès El Bali – still retains
the magical, bustling atmosphere of an ancient time and it is
centered around the two famous mosques of Al-Qarawiyin and Al-Andalus.
It is a huge maze of winding streets and covered bazaars where, if
one is not careful, it is easy to get lost (it is therefore a good
idea to hire an official guide). There are magnificent examples of
Hispano-Arabic architecture as well as numerous opportunities to
see traditional craftspeople at work. The medina (market)
in Fès El Bali is one of the largest in the world and is also on
UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Here, one can buy almost anything.
It is particularly good for carpets, rugs and ornate metalwork. As
in all of Morocco, the market business is conducted in a leisurely,
although deadly earnest way, with the accompaniment of endless
glasses of sweet mint tea. Fès is, perhaps, one of the most
fascinating cities anywhere in the Middle East or north Africa.
The valley of Ouergha to the north is famed for its souks
and Morocco’s most celebrated gathering of riders, which is said
to have been attended by Pope Sylvester II prior to his accession
in AD 999 and resulted in him introducing Arab mathematics to
Europe. Other attractions are the Karaouine (Al-Qarawiyin) Mosque
and Mesbahai Medersa, an old school, remarkable for its
traditional architecture and late afternoon auctions in the
Kissaria, the shopping area.
Marrakech
Founded in 1062, Marrakech was once the capital of an empire that
stretched from Toledo to Senegal. Called the ‘Pink City’ because
of the color of the local earth used in its construction, it is a
city of labyrinthine alleyways, secluded palaces, museums, mosques
and markets. The city’s gardens are still supplied with water from
11th-century underground irrigation canals. The Djemaa el-Fna
(Place of the Dead), the city square, comes alive after nightfall;
thronged with dancers, fortune-tellers, musicians, acrobats,
storytellers and snake charmers, it is an exciting and
occasionally bewildering place – an exotic spectacle that is
striking and endlessly surprising. Koutoubia, the 12th-century
mosque, is as tall as the towers of Nôtre Dame and dominates the
Marrakech skyline. The Ben Youssef Medersa, with its mosaics,
marbles and carved woodwork, is the largest theological site in
the Mahgreb. It forms part of Marrakech’s UNESCO-listed medina,
now a World Heritage site, crammed with architectural masterpieces.
Other interesting places to see are the sumptuous Bahia Palace;
the beautiful Saadian Tombs housing the remains of rulers of the
Saadian Dynasty; the Dar Sisaid Museum; the Menara and Aquedal
gardens and the famed camel market.
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Excursions
An hour’s drive from Marrakech is Oukaimeden, Morocco’s best ski
resort. This trip can be combined with a visit to Ourika (which
has a donkey market) and Asni. The latter is an excellent base for
visiting Jebel Toubkal, Morocco’s highest mountain, set amidst
spectacular scenery.
The Coast
The Mediterranean coast between Tangier and Nador has a string of
creeks, bays, sheltered beaches and cliffs along the shore, ideal
for swimming, boating and fishing. Al Hoceima, Mdiq, Taifor and
Smir-Restinga are all new resorts, offering a wide variety of
accommodation, from luxury hotels to well-situated bungalows.
The Atlantic coast is often rocky, with some long stretches of
fine sand and calm bays.
Tangier
Tangier, gateway to Africa, is the country’s most cosmopolitan
town, a place where – surviving from the days when Tangier was a
free port – the street signs are in three languages; in fact, no
less than 12 nations have occupied the city at one time or another
since the fifth century. The city has a picturesque and active
market called the Grand Socco. Other places worth visiting include
the Mendoubia Gardens; the Sidi Bounabib Mosque; the Moulay Ismail
Mosque; the Forbes Museum; and the Merinid College.
Excursions
Excursions in the region include visits to the mountain town of
Chechaouen, the fishing village of Asilah and the Caves of
Hercules at Cape Spartel. About 40km (25 miles) southeast of
Tangier, the city of Tetouan has a reputation for minor crime.
However, the town is beautifully located on a hillside with a view
over the Mediterranean and its medina (market) in the old
part is a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Casablanca
Also on the Atlantic coast is the newer city of Casablanca.
Founded at the beginning of the century, it is the country’s
principal commercial town, the second-largest town in Africa and
one of the continent’s biggest ports. Here stands the Hassan II
Mosque, the world’s largest mosque with one of the world’s tallest
minarets.
Excursions
Just south of Casablanca, in a picturesque location along the
banks of the Oum er-Rbia, is Azemmour, with its abundance of
violet bougainvillea and its purple ramparts (which visitors may
walk along after agreeing a fee for the guardian to unlock them).
Slightly further south is El Jadida which has a remarkable
Portuguese fortress and one of the most beautiful beaches on the
Atlantic coast. It also boasts the Church of Assumption, an
enormous underground Cistern and the ‘Gate on the Sea’ and
fortifications.
Elsewhere
Traveling further south along the coast brings visitors to Safi, a
fishing port with a Portuguese palace, pottery shops and a medina.
Agadir is a modern holiday city with superb beaches, excellent
resort hotels and self-catering accommodation, which offers all
types of sports activities. From here, there are excursions to the
towns of Taroudant, Tiznit, Tafraout, Goulimine and, of course,
the famous Marrakech. Essaouira is a laid-back fishing port whose
narrow streets are lined with whitewashed, blue-shuttered houses.
Mohammedia is another popular resort in this region.
The South
The South is a region rich in folklore and spectacular scenery,
dotted with small oasis villages and quiet towns surrounded by
orchards and olive groves.
Tafilalt
Erfoud is the center for excursions to the oasis of Tafilalt, kept
green and fertile by the underground waters of the Ziz and the
Rheris. Er Rachidia is the provincial capital of the Tafilalt
region, and has a bustling market on the main square. On the road
between Er Rachidia and Erfoud are the ‘Blue Springs’ at Meski and
the natural amphitheater of Cirque de Jaffar near Midelt. Tinerhir,
once a garrison of the French Foreign Legion, is worth visiting
for its kasbahs. Near Tinerhir is the outstanding scenery of the
Drâa Valley (famous for its red-earthern kasbahs) and the
magnificent Todra gorge.
The Deep South
This former French garrison can be reached via a beautifully
scenic route from Marrakech over the Tizi n’Tichka pass.
Ouarzazate is a good starting point for tours to the deep south.
Of particular interest is the kasbah of Taourirt, the Museum of
Arts and Crafts and the Carpet Weavers’ Co-operative Shop. About
30km (19 miles) from Ouarzazate lies the exotic and UNESCO World-Heritage-listed
Ksar of Aït-Ben-Haddou. The Ksar is a traditional pre-Saharan
habitat and consists of a group of earthen buildings surrounded by
high walls. Aït-Ben-Haddou has featured in several films,
including Lawrence of Arabia and The Sheltering Sky.
The magnificent ochre-colored cliffs and rock formations of the
Dadès Gorge, one of Morocco’s highlights, lie approximately 100km
(63 miles) east of Ouarzazate. Nearby is the pleasant village of
Boumalne du Dadès which has several hotels and guest houses
offering accommodation.
Zagora Region
From the top of the Djebel Zagora, there is a spectacular view of
the Draa Valley and desert. The oasis of Tamergroute, 18km (11
miles) away from Zagora, has a library containing some of the
earliest Arabic manuscripts, written nine centuries ago on gazelle
skins. They are on display at the Zaouia Nasseria. Nearby, Mhamid
and its palm groves are at the gates of the great sand desert.
Elsewhere
South of Agadir, the pink kasbahs of Tafraoute perch on spurs of
rock, their façades often painted with strange designs in white or
ochre. Goulimine is the site of the Blue Men’s souk, held
each weekend. A camel market also takes place once a week, on
Saturday.