Time in Bilbao
may soon need to be identified as BG or AG (Before
Guggenheim, After Guggenheim). Never has a single
monument of art and architecture so radically
changed a city -- or, for that matter, a nation,
and in this case two: Spain and the semiautonomous
region of Spain known as the Basque Country or by
its official name, Euskadi. Architect Frank
Gehry's stunning Museo Guggenheim, Norman Foster's
sleek subway system, and the glass Santiago
Calatrava footbridge, which allows pedestrians to
all but walk on water, have all helped foment a
cultural revolution in Bilbao, the Basque
Country's commercial capital.
Just southwest of
the southern border of France and bathed by the
Bay of Biscay, the Basque Country is made up of
three main provinces: Vizcaya (which includes
Bilbao); Guipuzcoa (which includes San Sebastián);
and Alava, where the Basque capital, Vitoria, lies.
Navarre, east of Euskadi and part Basque in its
upper reaches, and La Rioja, south of Euskadi and
the premier Spanish wine country, are closely
linked neighbors.