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Belgium
The
anachronistic images of ‘boring Belgium’ have been well
and truly banished over the last decade as the country
promotes its key destinations, along with a string of
new attractions. Belgium always had a lot more going for
it than the faceless political and bureaucratic
buildings that litter its capital, Brussels, with a
string of engaging cities in Bruges, Ghent, Liège - and
Brussels itself - that offer impressive architecture,
lively nightlife, first-rate cuisine and numerous other
attractions for visitors. Then there is reinvented
Antwerp, now a hotbed of fashion and modern
design, and
the more bucolic charms of the chocolate box beauty of
the mountainous Ardennes region to the east, as well as
the sweeping sand of the coastline resorts of the
western seaboard.
Brussels
Brussels is home to the European Union and NATO, amongst
many other institutions, but beyond their facelessness,
the city’s architecture is a smorgasbord, with the
gothic Grand Place the undoubted highlight. Other key
sights in Brussels include St Michael and St Gudule’s
Cathedral and the Mont des Arts park, which links the
upper and lower parts of the city. Then there is the
elegant Place Royale, built between 1774 and 1780 in the
style of Louis XVI, the Museum of Ancient Art and the
Museum of Modern Art. The Manneken-Pis, and his less
heralded sister the Janneken Pis, are statues that hint
at the exuberance and irreverence of the ‘Bruxellois’, a
spirit that reaches its zenith in the city’s numerous
bars which, along with the 1000 types of Belgian beer,
are not to be missed.
Among other areas worth exploring
are the Îlot Sacré, the picturesque area of narrow
streets to the northeast of the Grand-Place; the
fashionable boulevard de Waterloo; the administrative
quarter, a completely symmetrical park area commanding a
splendid view of the surrounding streets; the Grand
Sablon, the area containing both the flamboyant Gothic
structure of the Church of Our Lady of Sablon and the
Sunday antique market and, lastly, the Petit Sablon, a
square surrounded by Gothic columns, which support 48
small bronze statues commemorating medieval Brussels
guilds. A more modern attraction is the bizarre Atomium,
a futuristic, atom-shaped aluminum tower built for the
1958 World Fair. One important out-of-town attraction is
the Battle of Waterloo site, 18km (11 miles) to the
south of Brussels, commemorating the battle that shaped
the future of both Belgium and modern Europe, of which
Brussels is now such a crucial hub. The Brussels Card
now gives the visitor free access to 30-plus museums
and also the use of public transport throughout the
Brussels-Capital region, within a 72-hour period. This
‘culture pass’ is available at all participating museums
- at the six sales offices of the Brussels Public
Transport Company (STIB), at certain hotels and at the
Brussels International Tourism Office (see General
Info section), costing just &Euro;30.
Flanders
Antwerp
Although still Europe’s second-largest port, the city of
Antwerp has moved on from its purely industrial past.
Today, the inhabitants, or Sinjoors as they are
known, are at the cutting edge of fashion and design
with countless boutiques and shopping outlets across the
city. This energy also surfaces in the trendy bars and
hip nightclubs that have now joined the more traditional
charms of the beer and gin bars that still pull in the
more reserved drinkers. Beyond modern Antwerp the more
traditional attractions complement the new, with the
impressive Grote Markt, containing the Town Hall and the
Brabo Fountain, which commemorates the legend of the
city’s origin and also the 18th-century Groenplaats,
with its Rubens statue. The work of local artistic
luminary Peter Paul Rubens surfaces all over Antwerp,
most notably at the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, home to
what is arguably the world’s finest collection of his
work. The Rubens’ House, the magnificent 17th-century
house where the painter lived and worked, contains works
by the painter and his associates as do many other
museums and churches. Antwerp’s maritime heritage can be
explored on tours of the port and also at the Steen, a
12th-century fortress now housing the National Maritime
Museum, that overlooks the buzzing new city of today.
Bruges
Bruges is a pure picture postcard with a perfectly
preserved ‘medieval heart’ that can be explored from the
comfort of a canal boat ride, which takes tourists
around the myriad of waterways that lead to the city
often being referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’.
Bruges offers a variety of attractions such as the Lake
of Love, which in the Middle Ages was the city’s
internal port, the 14th-century Town Hall featuring a
façade decorated with bas-reliefs and statues of a
Biblical nature; the Cathedral of the Holy Saviour, a
fine example of 13th-century Gothic architecture and
home to many treasures; and the Grote Markt which was
formerly the commercial hub of the city. Bruges boasts
several good museums, including the Groeninge Museum
which houses a comprehensive and fascinating collection
of six centuries of Flemish paintings, from Jan van Eyck
to Marcel Broodthaers. The Memling Museum, housed in the
medieval Saint John’s Hospital, is dedicated to the
painter Hans Memling. The city is close to some
excellent beaches and the fertile Polder region, dotted
with abbeys and parks. The year 2002 was a big one for
Bruges as its lively cultural and artistic scene was
recognized with the award of European City of Culture.
Ghent
Bruges’ perennial poor cousin has plenty to offer
visitors today, with the lack of tourist crowds an
attraction in itself. This old cloth center was once the
largest medieval city in Europe after Paris. The
medieval heart of Ghent boasts many historic buildings,
including three abbeys. Key attractions include St Bavo’s
Cathedral, place of Charles V’s baptism and home to The
Adoration of the Mystical Lamb, the Van Eyck brothers’
masterpiece; the Town Hall, where the Treaty of Ghent
was signed in 1576; the Castle of the Counts, a medieval
castle surrounded by the Lieve canal; the 15th-century
Cloth Hall; the medieval town center with its old guild
houses; the Museum of Fine Arts, and the Museum of
Industrial Archaeology.
The Coast and West Flanders
The Belgian coastline is a largely sandy affair that
stretches for 67km (42 miles) from Knokke near the Dutch
border to De Panne on the French border ,with over a
dozen resorts. Bathing in the sea is free on all beaches
and there are facilities for sailing, sand yachting,
riding, fishing, rowing, golf and tennis. Some of the
best resorts are Bredene, De Haan, De Panne,
Lombardsijde, Nieuwpoort, Wenduine, Westende and the
town of Ostend, where Queen Victoria once took to the
waters. Knokke, Middelkerke and Ostend are the liveliest
resorts. Visiting the World War I battlefields is an
increasingly popular activity, with a number of sites
open with varying degrees of facilities. The killing
fields of Ypres are the most accessible with a war
museum, monuments, military cemeteries and the
battlefields themselves all located around the town.
Wallonia
Liège
Liège opens up the other half of Belgian culture as it
is a major city of Wallonia, the French-speaking portion
of Belgium. A popular tourist destination, situated on
the banks of the Meuse, with many reminders of a
colorful and affluent past, Liège was independent for
much of its history, ruled over by prince-bishops for
800 years. The view from the Citadel covers the old town,
the most impressive part of the city. Liège boasts many
fine museums with the highlights being The Museum of
Wallonian Life, showcasing the unique culture of
Wallonia; the Museum of Wallonian Art; the Museum of
Modern Art, displaying the works of Corot, Monet,
Picasso, Gauguin and Chagall, to name but a few, and the
Curtius Museum, housing a large collection of coins,
Liège furniture and porcelain. Liège’s most notable
buildings are the Church of St James, an old abbey
church of mixed architecture, including an example of
the Meuse Romanesque style, with fine Renaissance
stained glass and the 18th-century Town Hall.
Tournai
The second-oldest city in Belgium dates back to the days
of the Romans. World War II damaged much of the old town,
but the Cathedral of Our Lady (12th century), boasts an
impressive Belfry, which is the oldest in Belgium. The
Museum of Fine Arts is one of the finest in Belgium,
with works by Rubens and Bruegel, while the Natural
History Museum is also worth visiting.
The Ardennes
This mountainous area is famous for its cuisine, forests,
lakes, streams and grottoes. The River Meuse makes its
way through many important tourist centers. The town of
Dinant, in the Meuse valley, boasts a medieval castle,
while its most famous landmark is the Gothic church of
Notre-Dame. Annevoie has a castle and some beautiful
water gardens, while Yvoir Godinne and Profondeville are
well known for watersports. The old university town of
Namur, with cobbled streets in its center, has a
cathedral, castle and many museums. Houyet offers
kayaking and other assorted outdoor activities. The
River Semois passes through Arlon and Florenville;
nearby are the ruins of Orval Abbey, Bouillon and its
castle, Botassart, Rochehaut and Bohan. The Amblève
Valley is one of the wildest in the Ardennes and the
grottoes in the Fond de Quarreux are one of the great
attractions of the region. Among these is the
Merveilleuse grotto at Dinant and the cavern at
Remouchamps. There are prehistoric caverns at Spy,
Rochefort, Hotton and Han-sur-Lesse.
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The Ardennes - Belgium |
Activities
Cycling
A new network of cycling paths has been developed in the
Ardennes region. Known as RAVeL (Réseau
Autonome des Voies Lentes or ‘independent network of
slow paths’), the system is made up of disused railway
lines and old canal towpaths, now reserved and adapted
for the exclusive use of pedestrians, cyclists and
wheelchair users. It will eventually consist of 2000km
(1240 miles) of paths, which will be linked to similar
paths in neighboring countries. Flanders, the
more northerly
and flatter part of the country, is just as well-equipped
for cyclists. There are many kilometers of signposted
cycling routes. Bicycles can be hired at larger railway
stations and can be reserved in advance. They can very
often be carried on trains at no extra expense. Many
hotels will make arrangements for luggage to be taken to
the next destination during cycling tours. Contact the
tourist boards for further information (see General
Info section).
Outdoor activities
Although a highly developed country, Belgium has some
beautiful countryside. The hilly country in the Ardennes
region features forests, lakes and caves. Flanders
offers opportunities for coastal and forest walks. For
further information about marked trails, contact the
tourist boards (see General Info section).
Numerous other activities can be practiced, including
canoeing, kayaking, horseriding, caving, climbing and
fishing. A range of watersports is also available on the
coast.
Brewery tours
Belgium is renowned for its hundreds of varieties of
high-quality beer. There are beers of all colors and
types, brewed using different methods and ingredients –
wheat beers, fruit beers, red beers, amber ales and
‘spontaneously fermented beers’, to mention but a few.
Each beer has its own distinctive glass and label. Six
kinds of trappist beer, brewed by monks to ancient
recipes, are made in Belgium. Some breweries are open to
the public. Trappist breweries open to the public
include the Bières de Chimay brewery at Bailleux
and the Rochefortoise brewery at Eprave. Visits
to the Rochefortoise brewery must be booked by fax and
confirmed two days in advance. These beers can all be
sampled in Belgium’s many cafes, pubs and restaurants.
Gastronomy
Belgium’s large number of excellent restaurants
testifies to the high esteem in which the Belgians place
good food. The country has the highest number of
Michelin stars per head of the population, and is the
only country in the world where US fast food chains have
been consistently losing money. The visitor has an array
of fine restaurants, sophisticated cafes, and pubs to
choose from. Specialist tour operators offer gastronomy
trips where visitors can learn how to cook Flemish
dishes using local produce and beers.
Chocolate
Belgian chocolate has an excellent reputation. Some
chocolate factories are open to the public, though it is
often necessary to book in advance. The Chocolate and
Cocoa Museum on the Grand-Place in Brussels is open
from Tuesday to Sunday (every day in July and August).
The Chocolaterie Jacques' museum in Eupen near
Liège is open to the public from Monday to Friday.
Groups of more than 10 people need to book in advance.
World Wars I and II
Flanders contains Passendale and Ypres. These
battlefields can be visited, and there are many museums
commemorating the war dead and informing the visitor
about these terrible events. The In Flanders Fields
Museum (tel: (5) 723 9220) is an authority on the
region and the impact the war made upon it. In Ypres at
2000 each day, the Last Post is sounded under the Menin
Gate. A number of commemorative events are organized by
the regional tourist boards.
Netherlands
The
Netherlands today has dispelled all images of it being
an archaic land of clogs and windmills, with its string
of exciting cities, including the cosmopolitan capital,
Amsterdam – one of Europe’s great cities. Elsewhere,
Arnhem, Eindhoven, The Hague, Utrecht and the especially
buzzing Rotterdam all boast their own charms. Away from
the cities, the idyllic land of windmills and tulips
does still exist in the bucolic splendor of the
countryside, as do a number of coastal towns and resorts,
many with fine beaches and similarly interesting
heritages to The Netherlands’ bigger historical
cities.
Amsterdam
Amsterdam, the capital of The Netherlands (though not
the seat of Government) is one of Europe’s great
destinations, as popular with tourists as it is with
businesspeople. Amsterdam’s lifeblood is water, which
courses through the city in a concentric network of
canals and waterways spanned by more than 1000 bridges.
As Amsterdam is inextricably linked with water, one of
the most attractive ways of viewing the city is on a
canal tour. Many of the houses date back to The
Netherlands’ golden age in the 17th century. These
narrow-fronted merchants’ houses are characterized by
the traditionally Dutch ornamented gables. The oldest
part of the city is Nieuwmarkt, located near the first
canals – Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht –
built to protect the city against invasion. In the 17th
century, Amsterdam gained a reputation for religious
tolerance, which attracted thousands of Flemish, Walloon
and French Protestants, as well as Jewish merchants from
Spain, Portugal and Central Europe. The city has also
long been a center for diamond cutting and it is still
possible to see diamond cutters at work. Boasting 53
museums, 61 art galleries, 12 concert halls and 20
theaters, Amsterdam has a booming cultural life. A
special canal boat (the ‘museum boat’) links 20 of the
major museums. A special Museum Pass entitling holders
to free entry to over 400 museums is available from
participating museums and local tourist offices.
One of the city’s cultural Meccas is the Rijksmuseum, a
voluminous art gallery that is home to the works of many
of the country’s artistic luminaries, as well as
numerous European masters. The highlight for many
visitors is Dutch master Rembrandt’s epic Night Watch,
though the list of the gallery’s treasures is almost
endless. Fellow Dutch artist Van Gogh is celebrated
throughout the city, with the Rembrandt House Museum,
housed in the historical building where the great artist
used to live and work. The Stedelijk Museum of Modern
Art, a collection of Dutch and international art from
1850 onwards, includes works by Cézanne, Chagall, Monet
and Picasso, as well as photography, video, film and
industrial design. Amsterdam’s most poignant museum is
Anne Frank’s House, where the young Jewish girl hid away
from the occupying German forces, who were intent on
ridding the city of all Jews and sending them to their
cruel fates in the death camps. The museum illuminates
the young girl’s life and is of interest to everyone,
whether they have read her famous diary or not. A more
light-hearted attraction is the Heineken Brewery.
Heineken, the Dutch national brewer, is the world’s
second-largest brewing empire and this brewery, which
operated from 1932-1988, is now a museum. There are
daily guided tours, which culminate with ice-cold
samples of the famous beer.
Amsterdam is justifiably famous for its nightlife with
few other European cities managing to quite satisfy
every conceivable taste in the same way as The
Netherlands’ capital. Within a few blocks, well-heeled
couples idle away an evening in a canal-side gourmet
restaurant, and a group of backpackers stumble across
the cobbles after a night in a cheery pub, as just
around the corner the local trendies pose their way
through an evening in a new-style bar. Then there is the
Opera House, the string of concert venues, the football
stadium, some of Europe’s best nightclubs and the jazz
cafes, to name a few other nocturnal pastimes in
Amsterdam. And, of course, there are the seedier ways to
spend an evening, either exploring the infamous coffee
shops of a city where soft drugs are not only allowed,
but are sold over the counter, and the Red Light
District, a nefarious playground where all sorts of low
life mingle with the curious and the downright seedy.
Wherever tourists spend their evening, there is the same
relaxed, live-and-let-live ambience of a city where
almost anything goes.
Amsterdam Pass: This offers free admission to many
museums, tourist attractions and public transport as
well as up to 25 per cent discount on certain other
attractions, restaurants and transportation within the
city. The pass is available for one-day (&Euro;31), two-days
(&Euro;41) and three-days (&Euro;51). Further details
about the pass can be obtained from the Amsterdam
Tourist Office (tel: (20) 201 8800).
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Amsterdam view |
Around Amsterdam
There are numerous possible excursions and day trips
available from Amsterdam with an efficient national rail
network that links the surrounding towns and cities to
the metropolis. Alkmaar, where there is a famous cheese
market at Waagplein, open every Friday from mid-April to
mid-September, is a popular day trip. There is also a
good bus service from Amsterdam to Marken and Volendam,
both old fishing villages largely built of wood. The
former is predominantly Catholic, the latter Protestant
and both easily occupy a whole day.
Haarlem
Located 20km (12 miles) west of Amsterdam, Haarlem is a
center of Dutch tulip growing and the surrounding
countryside affords a fine view of the bulb fields from
the end of March to mid-May. The town itself has a
beautiful 16th- and 17th-century town center and two
fine museums. The Teyler Museum was first established in
1784 from its world-famous Oval Room by merchant banker,
Pieter Teyler van der Hulst. The museum has a very
diverse collection, which includes drawings by Rembrandt,
scientific instruments, fossils and coins. The
ultramodern new wing offers a striking contrast with the
oak-panelled rooms of the original building. The Frans
Hals Museum houses paintings by the artist. Also worth
visiting is St Bavo Church, containing a 5000-pipe organ,
which Mozart is reported to have played.
Utrecht
The city of Utrecht is a favorite destination with the
Dutch, as it offers many of Amsterdam’s charms on a
smaller scale without the tourist hordes that fill the
capital for much of the year. The fourth-largest city in
The Netherlands is also one of the oldest cities in the
country, the site first having been settled by the
Romans. During the Middle Ages, Utrecht was often an
imperial residence, and the city’s bishops regularly
played an important role in the secular affairs of
Europe. The city’s prosperity allowed the construction
of several beautiful churches, particularly the
Cathedral of St Michael (13th century), St Pieterskerk
and St Janskerk (both 11th century) and St Jacobkerk
(12th century). Other buildings of note include the
House of the Teutonic Order, the 14th-century Huys
Oudaen, the Hospice of St Bartholomew and the Neudeflat,
a more modern construction (built in the 1960s), but one
which affords a superb view across the city from its
15th-floor restaurant. The city also has several museums,
including the Central Museum (which has an excellent
Department of Modern Art), the Archiepiscopal Museum,
the Railway Museum, the Archaeological Collection and
the Municipal Museum. The best way to explore Utrecht is
by canal boat, which takes visitors on a loop of the
city that opens up its different districts. Utrecht’s
bars and restaurants are also renowned for their quality
and good value, and the lively nightlife is propelled by
the large local student community. Newly opened in 2006
is the Dick Bruna Huis, home to the bunny character
Miffy. The exhibition is an overview of Bruna's work.
Utrecht Province
The province of Utrecht, in the very heart of The
Netherlands, contains numerous country houses, estates
and castles set in landscaped parks and beautiful woods.
The countryside around Utrecht is very fertile and seems
like one large garden.
25km (16 miles) to the northeast of Utrecht is the town
of Amersfoort, set in a region of heathland and forest.
The old town is well preserved, one of the most
attractive buildings being the Church of St George. Just
8km (5 miles) away is the town of Soestdijk, containing
the Royal Palace and the beautiful parklands of the
Queen Mother. Between Soestdijk and Hilversum is Baarn,
a favorite summer resort among the Dutch.
Elsewhere
Nearby, the casino at Zandvoort (west of Haarlem) is
also the site of the annual Dutch Grand Prix. There is a
famous Flower Auction in Aalsmeer; open weekday mornings.
Near Lisse, south of Haarlem, are the Keukenhof Gardens,
which have a lily show in late May. The Frans Roozen
Nurseries & Tulip Show and the bulb fields can also be
visited. Broek op Langedijk has Europe’s oldest
vegetable auction hall with a large and interesting
exhibition of the land reclamation of the surrounding
area. Enkhuizen and Hoorn are well-known watersports
centers. The latter town features the National Zuyder
Zee Museum, an outdoor museum with ships and
reconstructed houses.
The North
Friesland
The province of Friesland in the northwest of the
country has its own language and its own distinct
culture. A large part of the marshlands along the North
Sea coast have been reclaimed from the sea. Friesian
cattle are among the most famous inhabitants of the area.
The Friesian lake district in the southern part of the
state centers on the town of Sneek, and is a good place
for watersports, particularly yachting. Near Sneek is
the small town of Bolsward, which has a magnificent
Renaissance Town Hall. Leeuwarden, the capital of
Friesland, has several old buildings and the Friesian
Museum, probably the most important provincial museum in
the country. Some 6km (4 miles) to the west is the
village of Marssum, which has a 16th-century manor house.
There are daily ferry connections with four of the
Friesian Islands and a chain of museums on the Aldfaer’s
Erf Route. The Hollandse and Friesian Islands (Ameland,
Schiermonnikoog, Terschelling, Texel and Vlieland), on
which there are bird sanctuaries and areas of
outstanding natural beauty, lie north of the mainland.
Groningen
The agricultural province of Groningen is known for its
fortified country houses dating back to the 14th century.
The provincial capital, Groningen, is commercially the
most important town in the north of The Netherlands, as
well as being a major cultural center. The city suffered
considerable damage during World War II, but many of the
16th- and 18th-century buildings have now been restored.
Drenthe
This is a province of extensive cycle paths, prehistoric
monuments (particularly in the area of the village of
Havelte) and Saxon villages. The region is almost
entirely agricultural, much of the land being drained by
the system of venns and weiks. The main
town, Assen, set in an area of woodlands, was an
insignificant village until the middle of the last
century, and has no historical monuments. The Provincial
Museum is, however, worth a visit. There are also
several Megalithic tombs to be found south and southwest
of the town.
The Hague & Zuid-Holland
The Hague (Den Haag, officially known as ’s-Gravenhage),
the seat of the Dutch government, is home to over 60
foreign embassies, the International Court of Justice
and the capital of the province of Zuid-Holland. This
has earned the city an unwarranted reputation for being
dull and sterile, but in fact The Hague is well worth
visiting and boasts a number of attractions. The central
part of the Old Town is the Binnenhof, an irregular
group of buildings surrounding an open space. The
seaside resort of Scheveningen (which has the country’s
only pier) is a nearby suburb. Walking around the old
parts of town is a joy in itself – the local tourist
office publishes a map that opens up the city and also
includes most of the many antique shops in The Hague.
The Parliament Buildings and Knight’s Hall are 13th-century
buildings where there are regular tours and slide shows
that illuminate their history, while the Royal Cabinet
of Paintings, housed in the Mauritshuis, is a collection
that includes the Anatomical Lesson of Dr Tulp by
Rembrandt, and other 17th-century Dutch works. Other
attractions include the Gemeentemusem, a recently
renovated municipal museum that houses an interesting
collection of modern art as well as interactive displays
illustrating a wide range of subjects; the Puppet Museum,
with its old and new puppets; the antique market at the
Lange Voorhout; the Duinoord district built in the style
of old Dutch architecture; the Haagse Bos wooded park;
the 17th-century Nieuwe Kerk; and the Royal Library. On
the outskirts of the city is one of Europe’s most
unusual attractions: Madurodam Miniature Town is a
playground for the young and not so young alike, a scale
model (1:5) of a typical Dutch landscape, complete with
houses, motorways and even fire-fighting boats
extinguishing real fires. Adjacent to Madurodam is Sand
World, a recently opened collection of sand sculptures.
Another bizarre local attraction is the Panorama Mesdag,
the largest panoramic circular painting in the world,
create by the artist Mesdag amongst others, and famous
for its perfect optical illusion.
Zuid-Holland
About 22km (14 miles) southeast of Rotterdam and about
45km (28 miles) southeast of The Hague is Kinderdijk,
near Alblasserdam, a good place to see windmills. They
can be visited during the week. Delft, center of the
Dutch pottery industry and world famous for its blue
hand-painted ceramics, is roughly midway between
Rotterdam and The Hague. Gouda, 20km (12 miles)
southeast of Rotterdam, is famous for its cheese market
and the Candlelight Festival in December. The
town center is dominated by the massive late-Gothic Town
Hall. Nearby is the pretty old town of Oudewater, noted
for its beautiful 17th-century gabled houses. Northwest
of Gouda by 12km (7 miles) is the town of Boskoop,
renowned for its fruit trees; a visit during the blossom
season is a delightful experience. Dordrecht, 15km (9
miles) southeast of Rotterdam and about 37km (23 miles)
southeast of The Hague, was an important port until a
flood in 1421 reduced the economic importance of the
town. The museum in the city has a good collection of
paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, while
the most striking building is probably the Grote Kerk,
begun in about 1305. Leiden, 20km (12 miles) northeast
of The Hague, 40km (25 miles) north of Rotterdam), the
birthplace of Rembrandt, was a famous weaving town
during the Middle Ages, and played a large part in the
wars of independence against Spain in the 16th century.
The university was founded by William the Silent in 1575
in return for the city’s loyalty. The Pilgrim Fathers
lived here for 10 years (1610-1620) and The American
Pilgrim Museum is found here. The town also boasts one
of the most charming windmills in the country, set in a
park overlooking water.
Rotterdam
Rotterdam is no longer content to play second fiddle to
Amsterdam and in recent years has rejuvenated its city
center, regenerated much of its dockside and also hosted
the European City of Culture. Rotterdam is Europe’s
largest and, indeed, the world’s second-largest, port
and is the hub of the Dutch economy, but it is now also
emerging as a tourist destination in its own right. Much
of the city was obliterated during World War II, and
only small parts of the old city remain. Historically,
the city has been an important manufacturing center
since the 14th century, but its pre-eminence as a port
dates only from the early 19th century.
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Rotterdam |
The best place
to get an idea of the city layout is from the viewing
level of the Euromast & Space Tower, which at 185m
(605ft) is the highest point in The Netherlands.
Rotterdam’s pride in its maritime heritage is on show at
the Maritiem Museum Prins Hendrik, where outdoor and
indoor exhibits include ships, barges, harbor cranes and
marine archaeological artifacts. Regular boat tours also
now take tourists around the city’s abundance of
channels and waterways. Boat tours (Spido)
through the harbor of Rotterdam are available throughout
the year. In the summer, there are excursions to
Europoort, the Delta Project as well as evening tours,
and there are also luxury motor cruisers for hire.
Rotterdam’s cultural scene is also rich with the Museum
Boymans van Beuningen, a unique collection of paintings,
sculptures and objets d’art dating from the 14th
century to the present day, and the Museum Voor
Volkenkunde, an ethnological museum, amongst the
highlights. For younger visitors, Dierenpark Blijdorp (Zoo)
is an open-plan zoo, beautifully laid out, with a
restaurant. The exotic wildlife includes bats, wolves,
elephants and rhinos, all amongst tropical forest
vegetation. A drive through the harbor of Rotterdam is
also possible; the 100 to 150km (60 to 90 mile) journey
takes in almost every aspect of this massive harbor. The
route passes wharves and warehouses, futuristic grain
silos and loading equipment, cranes and bridges, oil
refineries, powerstations and lighthouses, all of which
create a skyline of awesome beauty, particularly at
sunset. The docks, waterways, canals and ports-within-ports
are interspersed with some surprising and apparently
incongruous features; at one point the route passes a
garden city built for shipyard workers, while further on
there is a village and, at the harbor’s westernmost
point, a beach. A visit to Rotterdam harbor is
recommended. Other interesting places to visit include
the 17th-century houses in the Delfshaven quarter of the
city; the Pilgrimskerk; collections of maps and
seacharts at the Delfshaven Old Town Hall; many
traditional workshops for pottery, watchmaking and
woodturning. Rotterdam has also become something of a
Mecca for designers and architects, who have flocked to
the city to take part in its massive rebuilding program,
and their work is often showcased both in the buildings
they create and also in temporary exhibits. Rotterdam’s
nightlife scene has undergone something of a renaissance
over the last decade with myriad new bars, trendy cafes
and first-rate restaurants spicing up what was
previously an unappealing scene, geared mainly towards
itinerant sailors and students. Today, the waterfront is
increasingly being transformed into a leisure oasis. The
major concert venue is the De Doelen Concert Hall (classical
music, plays), which has 2000 seats. The local soccer
team, Feyernoord, play at the impressive De Kuip Stadium,
which was home to the final of Euro 2000.
The East
The wooded east consists of the provinces of Overijssel,
Gelderland and Flevoland.
Overijssel
The province of Overijssel is a region of great variety.
In the little town of Giethoorn, small canals take the
place of streets, and all transport is by boat. At
Wanneperveen there is a well-equipped watersports center.
The old Hanseatic towns of Kampen and Zwolle have
splendid quays and historic buildings. There are bird
sanctuaries along the Ijsselmeer.
Gelderland
This is The Netherland’s most extensive province,
stretching from the rivers of the south to the sand
dunes of the north. Gelderland is often referred to as
‘the back garden of the west’.
Arnhem
The province’s major city was heavily damaged in World
War II; indeed, its important position on the Rhine has
led to it being captured, stormed and occupied on many
occasions during its long history. The old part of the
town has, however, been artfully rebuilt. There is a
large open-air museum near Arnhem showing a collection
of old farms, mills, houses and workshops, all of which
have been brought together to form a splendid park. Not
far from the town center, there is a zoo and a safari
park.
Hoge Veluwe National Park
Near Arnhem is the Hoge Veluwe National Park, an
extensive sandy region and a popular tourist area, which
contains a game reserve (in the south), and the Kroller-Muller
Art Gallery and Museum, with many modern sculptures and
paintings (including a Van Gogh collection). One ticket
enables the visitor to see all of this, and there are
free bicycles available to cycle around the park.
Almost all of the old traditional villages have been
converted into holiday resorts. There are no towns of
any size in the Veluwe region.
Flevoland
Much of Flevoland was drained for the first time in the
1950-60s, and is in many ways a museum of geography; the
southern part of the province is not yet completely
ready for cultivation, and visitors can witness the
various stages of agricultural preparation. Lelystad is
the main town of the region, built to a controversial
design in the 1960s. Part of the province has also been
designated as an overspill area for Randstad Holland.
Flevoland’s 1100 sq km (425 sq miles) of land includes
many large bungalow parks.
The Far South
North Brabant
This province consists mainly of a plain, rarely more
than 30m (100ft) above sea level, and is mostly
agricultural. The region is known for its carnival days
in February and the Jazz in Duketown jazz festival. The
capital of the province is the city of ’s-Hertogenbosch
(non-Dutch speaking visitors will welcome the use of
‘Den Bosch’ as a widely accepted abbreviation) situated
at the center of a region of flat pasture land which
floods each winter. St Jan’s Cathedral is the largest in
the country; the provincial museum is also interesting.
Other major cities in this large and comparatively
densely populated province include Eindhoven, an
industrial center which has grown in the last 100 years;
Breda, an old city with many medieval buildings – it was
here that the declaration was signed in 1566 which
marked the start of the Dutch War of Independence; and
Tilburg, an industrial center which also has a large
amusement and recreation park (to the north of the city),
whose attractions include a haunted castle. In
Kaatsheuvel is the De Efteling Recreation and Adventure
Park, which includes a large fairytale wood and a big
dipper. Overloon is home to the Dutch National War &
Recreation Museum, which includes displays of heavy
armament in a park setting and other exhibits devoted to
the history of World War II.
In Hilvarenbeek is the De Beekse Bergen Safari Park.
Safari buses are available (continuous journey).
Limburg
The province of Limburg, the most southerly in the
country, is bordered by both Belgium and Germany. The
rolling hills covered with footpaths make this a good
place for walking holidays. It is also famous for its
cuisine. In the extreme south of the province is the
city of Maastricht, and its position at the crossroads
of three countries makes it ideal for excursions to such
nearby cities as Aachen over the border in Germany.
Maastricht itself is one of the oldest towns in the
country, and its Church of St Servatius is the oldest in
The Netherlands. The church treasury is particularly
interesting. Further north is the town of Roermond, an
important cultural and artistic center dominated by the
superb Munsterkerk.
The Coast
There are 280km (175 miles) of beaches and over 50
resorts in The Netherlands, almost all of which are
easily accessible from Rotterdam, Amsterdam and The
Hague. Large areas have been specially allocated for
naturists and the beaches themselves are broad, sandy
and gently sloping. There is surf along the coast, and
those who wish to swim must be strong enough to
withstand the hidden currents. Swimmers should obtain
and follow local advice. In the high season, lifeguards
are on duty along the more dangerous stretches of the
coast.
Zeeland
The province of Zeeland has several medieval harbor
towns where some of the best seafood in Europe can be
found. Most of the province lies below sea level and has
been reclaimed from the sea. The region also includes
several islands and peninsulas in the southwest
Netherlands (Walcheren, Goeree-Overflakkee,
Schouwen-Duiveland, Tholen, St Filipsland and North and
South Beveland). The province has become renowned for a
massive engineering project of flood barriers designed
to protect the mainland and the results of reclamation
from the devastating floods that periodically sweep the
coastline. The countryside is intensively farmed. The
capital of the province is Middelburg, a town that has
been important since medieval times. The Town Hall is
widely regarded as being one of the most attractive
non-religious Gothic buildings in Europe. The small town
of Veere, 8km (5 miles) to the north, retains many
buildings from its golden age in the early 16th century.
The North Sea port of Flushing (Vlissingen) is, for many
British travelers arriving by boat, their first sight of
The Netherlands. It is also the country’s first town in
another sense; in 1572 it became the first place to fly
the free Dutch flag during the War of Independence. |