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Panama

Unfettered by tourist crowds, Panama’s natural gifts shine. Although most backpackers to Central America set their sights on tourist-soaked Costa Rica and Guatemala, it’s hard to shake the feeling in Panama that you’re in on a secret the rest of the traveling world has yet to discover. Although the ‘gringo trail’ has already swung south to the Caribbean archipelago of Bocas del Toro, the careless overdevelopment plaguing most Costa Rican beach towns is still refreshingly absent here. In fact, Panama’s highlights are still very much off-the-beaten-path destinations, though it’s likely that this will change in the years to come.

Until its anticipated tourism boom explodes, however, Panama remains accessible to backpackers on a budget, and there’s no shortage of beaches, mountains and rain forests to explore. The Archipiélago de las Perlas in itself could occupy your entire trip, with its endless islands and islets, sublime beaches and pristine waters. Parque Nacional Volcán Barú is home to Panama's only volcano and some incredibly scenic trekking opportunities, while the Interior is a veritable bonanza of colonial towns, exquisite handicrafts and the country's friendliest people. Panama is also home to one of Central America’s most independent indigenous groups, the Kuna, who live autonomously in the Comarca de Kuna Yala; as well as one of the last true frontiers in the Americas, the infamous Darién Province.

Mapa de Panamá

Parque Nacional Darien, Panamá

Boquete

The mountain town of Boquete is known throughout Panama for its cool, fresh climate and pristine natural setting. Flowers, coffee, vegetables and citrus fruits flourish in Boquete’s rich soil, and the friendliness of the locals seems to rub off on everyone who passes through.

Boquete was very much intent on remaining a small town, but was faced with changes beyond anyone’s control – Baby Boomers started getting old. When Modern Maturity magazine of the American Association for Retired Persons chose Boquete in 2001 as one of the four top places in the world to retire, a flock of foreign retirees started snatching up mountain plots. Today, gated communities dot the hillsides, and the face of Boquete is slowly being transformed.

For travelers, Boquete is one of the country’s top destinations for outdoor lovers. From Boquete, you can hike, climb, raft, visit coffee plantations, soak in hot springs, study Spanish or go on a canopy tour. And of course, there’s nothing quite like starting your day with a glass of freshly squeezed OJ, or perking up with a cup of locally grown coffee.

Changuinola

Headquarters of the Chiriquí Land Company, the very same people that bring you Chiquita bananas, Changuinola is a hot and rather dusty town surrounded by a sea of banana plantations. Although there is little reason to spend any more time in Changuinola than you have to, overland travelers heading to the archipelago will have to pass through here. Changuinola also serves as the access point for the Humedal de San-San Pond Sak, the Parque Internacional La Amistad and Las Delicias.

Chiriqui Province
Chiricanos claim to have it all and there’s an element of truth to what they claim: Panama’s tallest mountains, longest rivers and most fertile valleys are in Chiriquí. The province is also home to spectacular highland rainforests and the country’s most productive agricultural and cattle-ranching regions.

Bordering Costa Rica to the west, Chiriquí is often the first province in Panama encountered by overland travelers and serves as a subtle introduction to the not-so-subtle beauty Panama has to offer. Although the mist-covered mountains near Boquete are slowly being colonized by waves of North American and European retirees, the town is a good base for exploring the flanks of Panama’s highest point, Volcán Barú (3478m). The town is also the center of Panama’s coffee industry, which means that a potent cup of shade-grown Arabica is never more than a café away.

Chiriquí is home to the Parque Internacional La Amistad, which offers excellent hiking through lush rainforests that are largely unfettered by tourist crowds. If you’re a serious white-water rafter, the region boasts over 20 different runs, yet sees a fraction of the river-runners that descend annually on Costa Rica.

As if this wasn’t enough of a tourist draw-card, the province is also home to the pristine Golfo de Chiriquí, which boasts powder-white sand beaches and a rich diversity of marine life. With so much to offer, it’s no surprise that some Chiricanos dream of creating an independent República de Chiriquí (Chiriquí Republic).

Colon Province

The mere mention of Colón sends shivers down the spines of travelers and Panamanians, but there is more to the province than its notorious capital. Stretching along the Caribbean coast from Veraguas Province in the west to the Comarca de Kuna Yala in the east, Colón Province is mostly undeveloped and virtually inaccessible, but steeped in a rich, accessible history.

During the colonial era, gold and silver bound for Spain were stored at the Caribbean coastal towns of Nombre de Dios and Portobelo. These were once the world’s wealthiest cities, attracting scores of pirates. In 1572 the English privateer Francis Drake sailed into Nombre de Dios and plundered its riches before reducing the city to ashes. In 1739 Portobelo was sacked by Admiral Edward Vernon, forcing Spain to finally abandon the Panama crossing in favor of sailing around Cape Horn. Today, the ruined city of Portobelo and the nearby fortress of Fuerte San Lorenzo stand as testaments to the faded glory of the Spanish empire.

The provincial town of Colón has also long passed its zenith. Although the city itself is an urban jungle racked by violent crime, the surrounding area is home to everything from pristine beaches and lowland rainforests to colonial splendors and modern engineering marvels. Within the span of a few days, you can snorkel in Caribbean waters, spot tropical birds on private reserves, stumble across ruins and admire the massive locks on the lesser-known side of the canal. And of course, it’s worth mentioning that the luxury train connecting Panama City to Colón is arguably one of the greatest rail journeys in the Americas.

Bocas del Toro, Panamá

Darien Province

Mention that you’re going to the Darién to anyone and you’ll no doubt be greeted with everything from fear and panic to horror and disbelief. Bad press and grave misconceptions about safety in the region would have you believe that the Darién is a no-go zone of Colombian guerrillas and narcotraffickers, but while the dangers of the province shouldn’t be underestimated, they should at least be contextualized. There are certainly regions that shouldn’t be visited unless you’re looking to get kidnapped. However, these are few and far between and easily avoided by anyone with the slightest regard for personal welfare.

Home to a 576, 000-hectare national park, southern Darién is where the primeval meets the present and the scenery appears much as it did a million years ago. Even today, the local Emberá and Wounaan people maintain many of their traditional practices and retain generations-old knowledge of the rainforest. Parque Nacional Darién is also one of world’s richest biomes and is home to the legendary bird-watching destination of Cana. But while the south is home to Panama’s most spectacular rainforests, the north is home to its worst scenes of habitat destruction. Although most news items focus on the spilling over of Colombia’s civil war into Panama’s borders, the real battle lines surround the province’s rapidly disappearing forests.

With the right planning, the Darién offers spectacular opportunities for rugged exploration and is best approached by travelers with youthful hearts, intrepid spirits and a yearning for something truly wild.

Isla Bastimentos

Although it’s a mere 10-minute boat ride from the town of Bocas del Toro, Isla Bastimentos is a different world. The northern coast of the island is home to palm-fringed wilderness beaches that serve as nesting grounds for sea turtles, while most of the southern coast consists of mangrove islands and coral reefs that fall within the boundaries of the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos.

The main settlement on Bastimentos is the historic West Indian town of Old Bank, which has its origins in the banana industry. Here, you’ll hear Gali-Gali, the distinct Creole language of Bocas del Toro Province that combines Afro-Antillean English, Spanish and Ngöbe-Buglé. The island is also home to the Ngöbe-Buglé village of Quebrada Sal, which is separated from Old Bank by a huge swath of jungle.

While there were concerns recently over the Red Frog Beach resort development project and the impact it would have on the island's pristine environment, new owners assure us that the project has been relaunched with a greener focus, concentrating on natural amenities rather than traditional resort amenities. This project will also involve extending the Parque Marino.

Isla Grande

Palm trees and white-sand beaches form the backdrop to this lovely little island, just 15km offshore from Portobelo. A popular getaway for Panama City folk fleeing the urban grind, Isla Grande is an ideal setting for snorkeling, scuba diving or simply soaking up the island’s relaxed vibe. A few hundred people of African descent live on Grande, most of whom eke out a living from fishing and coconuts – you’ll get a taste of both when you sample the fine island cuisine.

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Owing to its location on Panama’s northern Caribbean coast, Isla Grande gets an awful lot of rain year-round. Terms like ‘rainy’ and ‘dry’ seasons don’t apply here, though torrential showers are usually intense and shortlived, much like a traveling fling.

Isla Taboga

A tropical island with only one road and no traffic, Isla Taboga is a pleasant place to escape from the hustle and bustle of Panama City. Although it is only 20km offshore, the ‘Island of Flowers’ is covered with sweet-smelling blossoms at certain times of the year. First settled by the Spanish in 1515, the quaint village of Taboga is also home to the second-oldest church in the western hemisphere. However, the main appeal of the island is its string of sandy beaches lapped by warm waters, which can quickly rejuvenate even the most hardened urbanite.

Isla Taboga is currently in the midst of an image makeover. Ferries for the island now depart from the most exclusive of berths, namely the Causeway. Also, rumors abound that the now-defunct Hotel Taboga will be knocked down to make way for a sophisticated resort. In the meantime however, Taboga still serves as a laid-back day trip from Panama City for anyone looking for a little fun in the sun.

Skyline de Ciudad de Panamá

la Palma

La Palma is located at the mouth of the Río Tuira, where the wide river meets the Golfo de San Miguel. It is the provincial capital of Darién Province and the most populous town in the region. However, despite its lofty position as capital of the largest province in Panama, La Palma is literally a one-street town.

Most travelers pass through La Palma for one of two reasons: they’re here to catch a plane to somewhere else, or they’re here to take a boat ride to somewhere else. The two most popular boating destinations are the Ancon nature reserve and lodge at Reserva Natural Punta Patiño and the Emberá villages that line the banks of the Río Sambú.

Every facility of possible interest to the traveler is located on the main street, which is within 300m of the airstrip. La Palma is home to the only bank in the Darién Province, the Banco Nacional de Panamá. There’s also a hospital, a port and a police station (if you intend to go anywhere near the Colombian border and you speak Spanish, you should talk to the police here first), as well as three hotels, three bars and several food stands.

If you have to spend the night in La Palma, the Hotel Biaquira Bagara (/fax 299 6224; r with shared/private bathroom US$15/20) is run by the friendly Ramady family, who live in a home beneath the rooms they rent. All of the rooms have private cold-water bathrooms with a tub, which is a godsend after a week or two in the jungle. There’s also a lovely sitting area facing the river, which is a nice place to stew on the fact that you’re actually in the Darién.

If you’re planning a boating excursion, it’s probably best to stock up on groceries here as the selection in the minimally stocked local supermarket is about as good as you’ll get in these parts.

There’s no shortage of cheap and somewhat cheerful eateries in town, though the Restaurante El Regocijo (plates US$2-4) is one of the more popular, given that it’s also a cantina. As a word of caution, steer clear of puerco de monte (mountain pig) – this dish is actually wild peccary, which is illegal to hunt and even more illegal to serve up in a restaurant. Unfortunately, no one in La Palma really seems to be paying attention, though a foreigner washing down a plate of poached meat is bound to attract some unwanted attention.

Panama City

Undoubtedly the most cosmopolitan capital in Central America, Panama City is both a gateway to the country’s natural riches and a vibrant destination in its own right. As a thriving center for international banking and trade, Panama City sports a sultry skyline of shimmering glass and steel towers that is reminiscent of Miami. Not surprisingly, the city residents often joke that Panama City is the ‘Miami of the south,’ except that more English is spoken.

Although there’s no shortage of fine dining and chic dance clubs, visitors are often drawn to Casco Viejo, a dilapidated neighborhood of historic buildings and cobbled streets reminiscent of old Havana. Abandoned in favor of more stylish neighborhoods, Casco Viejo lay crumbling on the edge of the sea for decades. However, following an ambitious reclamation of this colonial district in recent years, it is priming itself to charm and enchant visitors once more.

The city’s architectural diversity is rivaled only by its cultural diversity. Urbanites here hail from all over Latin America, the Caribbean, Asia and, increasingly, North America and Europe. Given the ethnic diversity, it’s no surprise that the capital boasts a wide array of restaurants, with everything from Panamanian-style ceviche and bluefin tuna sushi to tikka masala and chicken kebabs. Not far from the city, you’ll also find some impressive adventure opportunities, from hiking through tropical rainforests to skirting along the jungle on a train ride to Colón.

Whether you measure the pulse of the city by the beat of the salsa clubs on Calle Uruguay or by the staccato of the street vendors’ voices in Casco Viejo, chances are you’ll slip into the rhythm of this Latin playground

Portobelo

Although today it is little more than a sleepy fishing village on the shores of the Caribbean, Portobelo was once the greatest Spanish port in Central America. Gold from Peru and treasures from the Orient entered Panama City and were carried overland by mule to the fortresses at Portobelo. During the annual trade fair, galleons laden with goods from Spain arrived to trade for gold and other products from the New World. However, much like Nombre de Dio, Panamá and Fuerte San Lorenzo, Portobelo was the target of constant attacks at the hands of English privateers. Considering that the city was destroyed several times throughout its history, it’s remarkable that so much of the colonial fortresses still stand.