Geography
Peru is a large, mountainous country on the Pacific coast of South America. It has borders with Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Brazil and Bolivia to the east, and Chile to the south. The Pacific Ocean lies to the west. There are three natural zones, running roughly north to south: Costa (Coast), Sierra (the Highlands) and Selva (Amazonian rain forest). The Costa region, which contains Lima (the capital), is a narrow coastal plain consisting of large tracts of desert broken by fertile valleys.

The cotton, sugar and rice plantations and most of the so-far exploited oil fields lie in this area. The Sierra contains the Andes, with peaks over 6000m (20,000ft), most of the country’s mineral resources (silver, zinc, lead, copper and gold) and the greater part of its livestock. The Selva, an area of fertile, subtropical uplands, lies between the Andes and the border with Brazil. Sections of a proposed international highway are at present being built through it, with some sections already in use. The Amazonian jungle has vast natural resources. The absence of land communications, however, left the area largely uncharted until full-scale oil exploration began in 1973. The population is largely Indian and Mestizo with a noticeable influence from African, Chinese and European (mainly Spanish) settlers.Perhaps no other country has more to offer the visitor than Peru; panoramic mountain ranges, vast deserts, beautiful beaches and tropical jungle. All this combined with a rich historical and archaeological past and enduring indigenous cultures. To reflect the importance of tourism to the national economy, PromPerú has set up 15 offices around Peru of Tourist Information and Assistance to help visitors solve any problems they may encounter. There is a 24-hour hotline based in Lima (tel: (1) 574 8000). The South American Explorers Club  is another good source of information on the area and has an office in Lima, offering a variety of services to its members such as equipment hire and a safe luggage store. For further information on any of the topics mentioned in this section, please contact the Tourist Information and Assistance 24-hour service (tel: (1) 574 8000).

Lima
Situated halfway along Peru’s desert coastline, Lima is literally stuck between the desert and the deep blue sea. The valley was once dominated by hundreds of pre-Inca temples and palaces. Pizarro chose the palace of local chief Taurí Chusko as the site of the city’s inauguration on January 6 1535 and thus began Lima’s colonial history, reflected in the opulent mansions with Moorish latticed wooden balconies that grace Lima’s plazas. The main square, Plaza de Armas, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, complete with paths, gardens and an elegant bronze fountain. Surrounding the main plaza are the Cathedral, Archbishop’s Palace, the Town Hall and the impressive Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace). Located at the northern end of the plaza, the latter is a lavish example of colonial opulence. The sumptuous state rooms are adorned with Carrera marble, cedar and mahogany woodcarvings, French glass and Czech crystal. Highlights are the Grand Salon, modeled on the Versaille Palace’s Hall of Mirrors, the dining room adorned with friezes depicting Inca history and the private theater. Free guided tours operate daily from the visitor’s entrance in Jirón de la Unión. Outside, visitors can admire the elaborate military uniforms in the Changing of the Guard. The Baroque Cathedral has been reconstructed after several earthquakes and its present building is dated around 1758. Visitors should not miss its Museum of Religious Art and Treasures, plus the collection of bones believed to be those of Pizarro himself.
One of the few buildings to withstand the 1746 earthquake is the Church of San Francisco. Recently renovated with the help of UNESCO, this exquisite church has several highlights, including the extraordinary early 17th-century domed cedarwood roof above the broad staircase leading to the cloisters. The library, in its thin, rectangular two-story salon with twin delicate wooden spiral staircases, houses a collection of some 20,000 volumes, plus masterpieces by Jordeans, Rubens and Van Dyck. Underneath the church are the catacombs, complete with ghoulish circular displays of the skulls and bones of some 70,000 souls.
The downtown area of Lima also houses historic colonial mansions, some of which still have connections with the original Spanish families who constructed them. Now occupied by the Foreign Ministry, the Palacio Torre Tagle (1735) with its Moorish-influenced balconies has particularly interesting azulejos (tiles), thought to be the first examples of an artistic fusion between both Native American and European styles. Close by is the striking salmon pink and white stuccoed Post Office built in the 1920s. With wrought iron gates and an arcade roof, the Correo also houses a stamp museum where enthusiasts can buy, trade and sell Peruvian stamps.
Peru’s rich cultural heritage is reflected by the variety of museums in the capital. Unmissable for history buffs are the Museo de Oro del Peru (Gold Museum), the Museo de Cultura Peruana (Museum of Peruvian Culture), Museo Larco (which showcases 3000 years of Peruvian history) and the Museo de la Inquisición y del Congreso (Museum of the Inquisition), with its sinister dungeons. Art-lovers should see Goya’s etchings at the Museo Taurino and the collection of masters at the National Art Museum.
On August 30 visitors can marvel at the religious processions held to honor the city’s patron saint, Santa Rosa de Lima. Later, on October 18, a purple haze descends upon the city as the faithful don purple robes to march in processions, praising El Señor de los Milagros. Cultural attractions aside, areas such as Barranco, Miraflores and San Isidro have much to offer the visitor in the way of shopping, restaurants and nightlife. Malls and department stores are expanding within the city, and the downtown area, particularly the streets around the Plaza de Armas, were remodeled a few years ago. Visitors should not miss the colorful daily market in Lima’s Chinatown district. A good place to get a close look at some of Peru’s diverse wildlife (such as jaguars and condors) is the Zoo, Parque Zoologico Huachipa and Parque de las Leyendas, landscaped to reflect Peru’s three main geographical zones: costa (coast); sierra (mountains); and selva (rainforest).

Costa
North of Lima
Piura and Tumbes are the most northerly Peruvian coastal regions and are Peru’s most important beach, surfing, sporting and deep-sea fishing centers. There are small resort-type hotels and small fishing villages and beaches.

Chiclayo
Chiclayo is a northern city with a hot and sunny climate, distinctive cuisine and musical tradition as well as an unparalleled archaeological heritage. Unfortunately, the 26 pyramid complex of Tucume (35km/22 miles north of Chiclayo) and Huaca Rajada (or the ‘Tomb of the Lord of Sipan’), considered to rank among the finest examples of pre-Columbian art, are not yet well restored, thus visitors should hire a local guide. Many of the fascinating ceramics, metal objects and textiles from the region are on view at the Bruning Museum in the town of Lambayeque, located 11km (6.8 miles) north of Chiclayo. There is a new museum called Royal Tombs of Sipan, a modern three-floor pyramid inspired by the Mochica sanctuaries.

Trujillo
Known as ‘the City of the Eternal Spring’, Trujillo’s brightly colored colonial mansions – such as the Casa Bracamonte or Casa del Almirante del Risco – are well worth visiting. The area’s archaeological treasures include Chan Chan, the largest pre-Inca mud city (20 sq km/7.7 sq miles) declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986 and the huacas (religious centers) of the Sun and the Moon (the latter has painted mud walls depicting one of the main deities of the Moche culture). The beautifully restored Huaca Arco Iris, located close to the city limits is covered with pre-Inca hieroglyphics. Visitors may be interested in the impressive Palacio Iturregui and the Church of El Carmen with its Pinacoteca (Art Museum). Unmissable is Casinelli’s Musuem with an impressive collection of pre-Inca pottery and artifacts, collected from local huaqueros (native priests). Trujillo’s excellent seafood restaurants, coffee shops and bars make this city one of the best places to dine in Peru.

South of Lima
Situated 250km (156 miles) south of Lima via the Pan-American highway, the Paracas National Reserve is home to a large concentration of sea fauna and marine birds.

Ica
A pleasant colonial town, famous for its wineries and Pisco distilleries (open to the public all year), Ica is a good point of call on a trip to the Nazca Lines. The town’s interesting Museo Regional Adolfo Bermúdez Jenkins has a striking collection of Paracas, Nazca and Inca artifacts, including a macabre installation of mummies showing the Pre-Inca method of beautifying skulls.
The Nazca Lines – located 420km (265 miles) south of Lima – are a set of large geoglyphs thought to be made by three different cultures between 200 BC and AD 600. These spectacular drawings of animals (birds, felines and reptiles), geometric shapes and lines can be seen from an observation tower but are best viewed from the air. Flights are around US$55 and can be booked from Lima or in the town of Nasca. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1994.

Sierra
Cajamarca
Located in the northern highlands, Cajamarca was the site of the execution of Inca emperor Atahualpa by the Spanish Conquistadors. Visitors can see Atahualpa’s Ransom Room, allegedly filled with gold to try to buy his release from his Spanish captors. Declared a Historical and Cultural Heritage of the Americas by the Organization of American States (OAS) in 1986, Cajamarca contains many well-preserved examples of 17th- and 18th-century colonial Spanish buildings and churches and visitors should not miss the Belén complex that includes the Anthropology Museum. As a highland commercial hub, Cajamarca’s central market is a bustling mix of many different native products and people. Cajamarca is also famous for its Carnival celebrations (held four days after Ash Wednesday), undoubtedly the biggest Carnival celebrations in Peru.

Huaraz
Nicknamed the ‘Peruvian Switzerland’ for its glacial lakes and snow-capped peaks, Huaraz is the departure point for treks and expeditions to the Callejón de Huaylas. Huaraz hosts the annual Semana del Andinismo, including international ski events on the Pastoruri Glacier. The Huascarán National Park, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985, protects the area’s biggest indigenous plants, the Puya Raymondi (giant bromeliads that grow up to 15m high and live for over 40 years) and is the home of the native viscacha, puma, vicuña and the rare spectacled bear. The nearby Chancos thermal baths, known traditionally as the ‘Fountain of Youth’, are located 28km north of Huaraz. There are also many archaeological sites nearby, especially remarkable is the pre-Inca stone complex of Chavín de Huántar, situated 110km (69 miles) from Huaraz, dating from approximately 1200 BC. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985.

Ayacucho
From some city views Ayacucho appears to have more churches than houses and therefore it comes as no surprise that the Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations are the most important event on the calendar for locals. Semana Santa sees a massive influx of visitors and therefore it is a good idea to pre-book accommodation. Ayacucho is famous as a source of exquisite handicrafts, including pottery, leatherwork, textiles and jewelry.

Cusco
The capital of the Inca Empire (founded AD 1100), Cusco today is a fascinating mix of Inca and colonial Spanish architecture and was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1983. Almost every central street has remains of Inca walls, arches and doorways that serve as the foundation for the colonial and modern buildings. More archaeological sites are abundant in the nearby area and towns. Narrow alleys of whitewashed houses with sky-blue and bottle-green shutters open out onto elegant squares with stone-hewn fountains and elegant restaurants and posadas (inns). Colorful murals depicting historical scenes can be seen on countless walls and indigenous women with braids and embroidered shawls set up makeshift stalls selling woven blankets and handmade crafts and jewelry. Shops around the main square are open all week from dawn to midnight, but close for about two hours during lunch. There is a wide array of hotels, hostels, pensions and family houses, as well as restaurants and other services related to tourism. Cusco also has a good choice of nightlife.
The Church of Santo Domingo was built on the foundations of the Inca Temple of the Sun, Qoricancha, (Quechua for golden courtyard: its walls were covered in solid gold sheets, much to the delight of the gold-hungry Spanish invaders). Heavy doors leading into the cloisters are now adorned with Moorish star- and diamond-shape patterns. The cloisters are lined with oil paintings in heavy gilt frames that depict scenes from the life of St Dominic. Remains of the original Inca temple walls are found inside the main courtyard. The Incas built these walls tapering upwards so that they would withstand earthquake tremors. Huge blocks of green and grey diorite stone were placed together in a perfect fit without mortar, perfectly demonstrating the sophisticated Inca engineering and architectural skills. A further example of Inca skill with polygonal masonry is seen in the Stone of Twelve Angles.
The elegant Plaza de Armas, or main square, is lined with arcades and houses with ornately carved wooden balconies and terracotta tiled roofs. Dominating the square is the Cathedral, which is flanked on the left by the Church of Jesús María. Its altar is elaborately carved from cedarwood that is covered in gold and silver plate (plateresco) and mirrors. In the cathedral there are several notable features, from the 400kg (882lb) main altar fashioned from silver mined in Potosí, Bolivia, to the 1958 silver-plated truck, that carries some 14 statues in the annual Corpus Christi procession. The early 17th-century cedarwood choir stalls bear testimony to the skill of the principal carver, Tomas Tuero Tupac, and are some of the finest in Peru. Marcos Zapata’s painting, La Ultima Cena (The Last Supper) has the apostles with ghostly white pallor, while Judas is given the darker skin coloring of an Indian and, stretched out in the center of the table, is a local Inca delicacy – cuy, or roast guinea pig. To the right of the cathedral is the Church of El Triunfo. Inside, a painting commissioned by Alonso Cortés de Monroy depicts the great earthquake of 1650 with the inhabitants praying to El Señor de los Temblores (Lord of the Earthquakes). Underneath the chapel are commemorative plaques to Garcilaso Inca de la Vega, Inca chronicler, whose remains were returned from Spain to Cusco several years ago. Other sites of interest include the Museo de Arte Religioso, Museo Palacio Municipal, Museo de Historia Nacional. Visitors should purchase a Cusco Visitors Card available from the Tourist Information Office on the main square, that allows the bearer entrance to all of the Inca sites surrounding Cusco, including the town’s museums.

Cusco - Peru

Sacsayhuamán
Outside Cusco are four nearby Inca ruins, of which Sacsayhuamán is the most impressive (the others are Puca Pucara, Qenko and Tambo Machay). This magnificent ceremonial center, with its three vast ramparts that run parallel for more than 350m (1148ft), was the site of the famous battle between Manco Inca and Juan Pizarro, Francisco’s younger brother, in 1536. The boulders used to construct the walls are immense, weighing up to 360 tons and measuring up to 10m (33ft) in height and 4m (13ft) in depth. On June 24 each year, thousands of locals arrive to celebrate the Inti Raymi festival with a colorful pageant held at Sacsayhuaman. Visitors can explore the sites on horseback.

Urubamba
The Urubamba was once the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Key sites to visit include the Inca ruins and popular Sunday market at Pisac, as well as the extensive complex of ruins at Ollantaytambo. Urubamba, the main town in the valley, is a base from which to explore the surrounding region. Worth a detour is the pottery belonging to Pablo Seminario, whose distinctive work shows pre-conquest influences.

Salineras de Maras
About 10km (6 miles) from here are the salt pans of Maras. These pre-Inca salt pools were constructed during the Chanapata culture between AD 200-300 and AD 900, from a natural salt spring. Terraces were carved from the hillside and through a system of natural irrigation and gravity (still in perfect use today) the water courses along channels to form pools of water, which evaporate in the sun to leave salt deposits. There are over 3000 pools still in use, co-owned by 400 indigenous families. All the salt is scraped by hand from the sides of the pools into sacks and then pulled up the hillside by mules, consensus dictates on which days the water will be diverted along channels to collect in a certain group of pools.

Machu Picchu
For most visitors, the Inca city of Machu Picchu is the highlight of their visit. Revealed to the Western world by the American Hiram Bingham on July 24 1911, and declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1983, it is probably the most important archaeological site in South America and requires at least one day to explore fully. Buried beneath jungle vegetation for centuries, excavations revealed a myriad of staircases, terraces, temples, palaces, towers and fountains. Highlights of the site include the ceremonial baths, the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Three Windows and the Intihuatana, or carved rock pillar used by Inca astronomers to predict the solstices. A 30-minute walk south from the main complex takes the visitor to the Inca Bridge, carved into the vertiginous cliff face. Climb the peak of Huayna Picchu that towers over the city and from the summit, it is a breathtaking experience to watch the mist roll back to reveal the architectural marvels of the Inca citadel. Visitors should invest in a guide as there is little information for tourists and there is much that is known about the lost city of the Inca. Those interested in trekking the Inca Trail through the Urubamba Valley should organize their treks at home, due to the environmental damage done by unscrupulous local tour operators to the trail. In an effort to minimize the damage caused by visitors there are currently restrictions on some sections of the Inca Trail.

Machu Picchu - Peru

Puno
Puno (3827m/12,464ft above sea level) is the center of Peruvian folklore and hosts some of the best festivals in Peru, Virgen de la Candelaria (February 2) and Puno Day (November 5) to name but two. Spaniards were lured to the region by the vast mineral wealth and the area is dotted with both colonial churches and pre-Columbian ruins, such as the Chullpas de Sillustani, a complex of tombs in the form of towers built on the banks of Lake Titicaca by the Tiahuanaco people. Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, is the home of the Uros people who have for centuries built their homes and boats out on the lake using Totora reeds. Extending over a total surface area of 8379 sq km (3235 sq miles), Lake Titicaca is 180km (112 miles) long and 69km (43 miles) across, at its widest point. Around the lake can be found pre-AD 1000 remains from the Pucara and Tiahuanaco cultures. An unforgettable site is the Yavari Project, the oldest steamship on Lake Titicaca. The lake forms a natural border between Peru and Bolivia and in this part of Peru the native people are predominantly Aymara and not Quechua speakers.

Arequipa
The second-largest city in Peru, Arequipa is also known as the ‘white city’, since the most important colonial buildings were built of white volcanic rock (ashlar) from a nearby quarry. In 2000 the city was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Both Spanish colonial and Andalusian influences are visible everywhere. Especially remarkable is the Santa Catalina Convent – a beautiful ‘city within a city’. Other highlights include the Casa del Moral (House of the Mulberry Tree), with its elegant wrought-iron windows and sculptured portico and the Casa de la Moneda (the former mint). Arequipa is a great place for hiking and mountaineering expeditions with daily excursions to the Cotahuasi and Colca Canyons, one of the deepest in the world. El Misti is a relatively easy climb and river rafting is becoming popular in the area.

Selva
Iquitos
Iquitos is Peru’s largest jungle city. Once a booming rubber town in the late 19th century, tourism and oil are now Iquitos’ main industries. It is a major base for excursions to the Amazon basin and has numerous hotels of varying standards as well as nearby jungle lodges and camps. The river provides excellent opportunities for traveling down the Amazon to Brazil or crossing the river to and from Colombia.

Manu National Park
Located in the rainforests of the Cusco and Madre de Dios regions, Manu National Park is Peru’s greatest natural treasure in biodiversity. Extending to some 20,000 sq km (7722 sq miles) of tropical rainforest, the area was first earmarked for protection in 1973, declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1977 and a World Natural Heritage Site in 1987. The park is inhabited by indigenous people including the Arahuaca, Matiguenka, Piro, Yine and Yora tribes and is divided into three distinct areas. The first section, Parque Nacional Manu, can only be entered by scientists and researchers on special permits, while the Zona Reservada is accessible to group tours operated by a licensed company and the Zona Cultural consists of a few villages that are outside restricted areas. Tourist infrastructure in the Zona Reservada is rustic and made from sustainable materials such as local timber and woven palm fronds for roofing material. Few of the lodges have hot water or electricity and, as such, are packaged as eco-friendly and follow strict environmental practices.
Scientists believe that the park is home to more than 2000 species of plants, 1200 species of butterflies, around 800 types of birds and 200 different mammals. The dense carpet of tropical rainforest is irrigated and dissected by several great rivers, including the Madre de Dios, Manu Panagua and Ucayali. Over time, swamps and cochas (oxbow lakes) have formed, sustaining unique types of flora and fauna. In the Manu region, a whole host of birds can be seen including the Amazon kingfisher, harpy eagle, hoatzin, orinoco goose and tiger herons. It is possible to spot various primate groups in the dense tree cover, such as the emperor tamarin, spider and howler monkeys, but less common are the lowland tapir, sloth, jaguar or capybaras. For this reason, a stay of seven to eight days is recommended in order to observe a representative sample of the flora and fauna, birds and animals available.

Blanquillo Ecological Reserve
Outside the Reserve Zone is the Blanquillo Ecological Reserve, a private reserve that extends to almost 14,000 hectares (34,595 acres). The Tambo Blanquillo Lodge owns a floating catamaran hide, which is ideally situated to view the spectacular early morning sight of hundreds of brightly colored macaws and parrots descending to feed off the 6m- (20ft-) high clay lick, or cliff known as a collpa. A 10-minute motorized canoe ride from the lodge connects with a trail that leads to the Cocha Camunga, home to a family of giant river otters. Even more opportunities to see wildlife can be enjoyed from a magnificent 40m- (130ft-) high viewing platform, carefully constructed in the boughs of a magnificent Kapok tree.

Tambopata-Candamo Reserved Zone
The Tambopata-Candamo Reserved Zone is 45km (28 miles) from Puerto Maldonado by river. Specialists say that it contains the largest and richest bio-diversity of the world. The flora and fauna within includes more than 2000 flower varieties, 1000 birds and 900 butterflies and dragonflies.

Activities

Mountain trekking
Practically all of the highlands and some parts of the jungle include trekking circuits, although only a few are being used commercially. Hikes are possible all year round, but the easiest period is the dry season (June to September). Hiking equipment can be bought or hired in Cusco and Huaraz which are the starting points to the most important treks in Peru, listed below.
Inca Trail to Machu Picchu: Probably the most famous trekking route in South America, the trail offers views of snow-capped mountains, high cloud forests and the opportunity to walk past 2 magnificent ancient Inca ceremonial centers, such as those at Phuyupatamarca and Wiñay Wayna. Completion of the 48km (30 mile) trek takes three to five days, and must be undertaken in a group with an official local leader. The trail fee is approximately US$50 per person, which includes a one-day entrance ticket to Machu Picchu. Due to the popularity of the trail and current restrictions in place to protect it, it is advisable to book your hike at least 30 days in advance wherever possible.
Cordillera Blanca: The highest tropical mountain range is a 180km- (112.5 mile-) long paradise of snow-capped mountains, glaciers, emerald-green lakes and archaeological sites. It also contains a wide variety of flora and fauna. Practically the entire range is a protected area within the Huascarán National Park. Routes vary from two to 12 days.
Olleros-Chavín Llama Trek: This is a four-day trek between the attractive town of Olleros and the spectacular archaeological site of Chavín de Huántar. Llama 2000, as it is known, is an initiative launched by a group of campesino farmers to promote ecotourism while protecting their traditional way of life.
Other trekking areas: These include the Cordillera Huayhuash (Huaraz), Colca Valley (164km/102 miles north of Arequipa), where major attractions include snow-capped volcanoes; Mount Ausangate (south of Cusco), a physically demanding eight- to 12-day walk, which requires climbing through high mountain passes and being exposed to changing weather conditions.

Mountaineering
The Cordillera Blanca (23 summits above 6000m/19,686ft above sea level) and Huayhuash (six summits above 6000m/19,686ft above sea level) are the best-known ranges for mountaineering activities – a unique concentration of mountains and relatively few mountain climbers. There is mild weather almost all year long and relatively easy access to sites that are nevertheless cut off from hectic city life.

Surfing
This is a particular favorite as the beaches of Lima (constant waves from April to September) and the north (heavy seas between October and March) rank alongside the best in Hawaii or California. Top spots include Cabo Blanco, Chicama (or Malabrigo) or Pico Alto.

Fishing
The most renowned spot for sea fishing is Punta Sal in Tumbes (North coast). Tuna fish, drums, flounder, pacific croaker, grunts, groupers and large black marlins can be found on the coast of Peru. Lake and river fishing is good in both the highlands and the jungle.

Whitewater rafting
Rafting in Peru combines amazing landscapes with some tough rapids. Some rivers can be run in one-day trips (mostly on the coast and the highlands), and expeditions lasting from three to 12 days can be arranged to run others (mostly in the highlands and the jungle). The Colca River is rated as Peru’s premier rafting river.

Mountain biking
Any part of the country, except the coastal desert and the jungle plains, is suitable for mountain biking. Some of the best circuits include those in the Pachacámac Valley and the Paracas Reserve.

Other
The main sports and activities practiced in Peru are paragliding, hang-gliding, rock climbing, windsurfing, horseriding, marathon running (annual competitions at challenging heights), snowboarding, hot air ballooning, underwater fishing and scuba diving. Tennis facilities are available in Lima. Golf facilities are usually available to members only.