Visit Poland, tourism Poland

Poland

Overrun countless times by marauding aggressors, subjugated to overbearing foreign rule for centuries, and now told their beloved vodka can be made from anything, the Polish nation has endured more than most. Yet Poland, a country crushed flat so many times it has become indestructible, is shaking off the last vestiges of forced slumber and rushing with great abandon into a modern 21st century.

Despite the country’s rush to embrace the future, its past cannot be ignored, particularly when it confronts you at every turn. Warsaw may be embracing New World cuisine, café culture and clubs that never close, but you’ll still encounter peasant women selling bunches of flowers in its beautifully reconstructed Old Town. Drive across the country’s northern expanse and you’ll stumble upon a string of 14th-century Gothic castles, like the magnificent example at Malbork, the last remnants of the once powerful Teutonic Knights. Catch a no-frills flight to Kraków or Wrocław and you’ll arrive in magnificent medieval centres. Or choose almost any major city, from Lublin to Poznań – and too many small towns – and you’ll bear witness to extermination camps established by Nazi Germany, derelict Jewish cemeteries, and dark political prisons, terrible reminders from the last 70 years.

This massive land in the heart of Europe has become the epitome of a changing continent. Now a member of the EU, it is enjoying the rewards – and experiencing the challenges – of this exclusive club. Money has begun to flow into the country, repairing roads, building shopping malls and beautifying streets, but the progress is laboriously slow for some. Poland still has an unemployment rate twice as high as some of its EU compatriots, and its young, educated citizens are leaving in droves for wealthier pastures.

Mapa de Polonia

Plaza del mercado Cracovia, Polonia

Malbork

It’s not hard to figure out what the tourists streaming out of Malbork’s train station every day are heading towards – this quiet hamlet’s spectacular castle. The top dog among Polish fortifications, the magnificent Unesco-listed structure is a classic example of the medieval fortress, and Europe’s largest Gothic castle as well. In summer it’s at its busiest, playing host to crowds of both local and international visitors. Malbork is an easy day trip from Gdańsk, but you could also stay overnight to appreciate the town and its famous stronghold in a less hectic atmosphere.

Krakow

Kraków, which celebrated its 750th birthday in 2007, is by far Poland’s biggest drawcard, and it’s immediately apparent why. As the royal capital for 500 years, the city was able to absorb much history and talent over the centuries and is today a treasure trove of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Miraculously, this jewellery box emerged largely intact after WWII. As a result, no other city in Poland can boast so many historic buildings and monuments or such a vast collection of artworks, with some 2.3 million registered.

Wawel Castle is Kraków’s centrepiece and a must-see, but most visitors will find themselves drawn to the Old Town, with its soaring Gothic churches and gargantuan Rynek Główny (Main Market Sq), the largest in the nation. Just outside the Old Town lies the former Jewish quarter Kazimierz, its silent synagogues reflecting the tragedy of the recent past.

Kraków is well endowed with attractions and diversions of a more modern variety, with hundreds of restaurants, bars and music clubs tucked away down its cellars and narrow alleyways. Though hotel prices are above the national average, and visitor numbers are very high in summer, this vibrant, cosmopolitan city is an essential part of any visit to Poland.

Give yourself at least several days or even a full week to do Kraków justice. This is not a place to rush through; the longer you stay, the more captivating you’ll find it. And without even trying, you’ll discover something pretty, old, curious or tasty around every corner.

Tatras - Carpatos, Polonia

Wroclaw

Everyone loves Wrocław (vrots-wahf) and it’s easy to see why. A more manageable Kraków, with all the cultural attributes and entertainment, the capital of Lower Silesia has a character all its own.

Having absorbed Bohemian, Austrian and Prussian influences, the city has a unique architectural and cultural make-up, best seen in its magnificent market square. Wrocław’s location on the Odra River, with its 12 islands, 130 bridges and riverside parks, is idyllic, and the beautifully preserved ecclesiastical district is a treat for lovers of Gothic architecture. Fans of Wrocław are in good company. Pablo Picasso said he found the postwar reconstruction of the city a powerful inspiration on a visit in 1948, and the British historians Norman Davies and Roger Moorhouse used Wrocław as the model for their highly readable Microcosm: A Portrait of a Central European City (2003).

But Wrocław is not just a pretty face. It is Poland’s fourth-largest city and the major industrial, commercial and educational centre for the region; virtually everything in southwestern Poland starts, finishes or is taking place in Wrocław. At the same time it is a lively cultural centre, with several theatres, some major festivals, rampant nightlife and a large student community.

Lublin

Lublin’s centre has emerged into the new century with revived confidence, and the locals are out in droves to enjoy it. The Rynek is ringed with bars, cafés and restaurants, which have new-world attitude while still respecting their old-world location. Step through Krakowska Gate to pick up the pace on ul Krakowskie Przedmieście, with its parade of pepped-up Poles and perky holidaymakers.

After many years spent lagging behind other towns of equivalent size, Lublin has relaunched itself as the bustling leader of its region. After its painful history, Lublin’s ability to laugh again is a testament to its character as a true survivor.

Lagos Masurianos, Norte de Polonia

Poznan

If you arrive in Poznań any evening and stroll into its central market square, you’ll receive an instant introduction to the characteristic energy of Wielkopolska’s capital. The city’s Old Town district is buzzing at any time of the day, and positively jumping by night, full of people heading to its many restaurants, pubs and clubs. Though it’s also famous for its numerous trade fairs, which periodically make Poznań near-inaccessible to the casual traveller, the combination of international business travellers and the city’s huge student population has created a distinctive vibe that is quite independent of tourism.

In addition to its energetic personality, Poznań offers many historical attractions in its centre, particularly museums, and its plentiful transport links make it a great base from which to explore the quieter surrounding countryside.


Great Masurian Lakes

The Great Masurian Lake district (Kraina Wielkich Jezior Mazurskich), east of Olsztyn, is a verdant land of rolling hills dotted with countless lakes, healthy little farms, scattered tracts of forest and small towns. The district is centred on Lake Śniardwy (114 sq km), Poland’s largest lake, and Lake Mamry and its adjacent waters (an additional 104 sq km). Over 15% of the area is covered by water and another 30% by forest.

The lakes are well connected by rivers and canals, to form an extensive system of waterways. The whole area has become a prime destination for yachtspeople and canoeists, and is also popular among anglers, hikers, bikers and nature-lovers. Any boating enthusiast worth their (freshwater) salt should make Masuria their first port of call.

The main lakeside centres are Giżycko and Mikołajki, with two minor ones, Węgorzewo and Ruciane-Nida, at the northern and southern ends of the lakeland, respectively. Visitors arrive in great numbers in July and August, though after mid-August the crowds begin to thin out.