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Geography
The Czech Republic is situated in central Europe, sharing frontiers
with Germany, Poland, the Slovak Republic and Austria. Only about
one-quarter of the size of the British Isles, the republic is hilly
and picturesque, with historic castles, romantic valleys and lakes,
as well as excellent facilities to ‘take the waters’ at one of the
famous spas or to ski and hike in the mountains. Among the most
beautiful areas are the river valleys of the Vltava (Moldau) and
Labe (Elbe), the hilly landscape and rocky mountains. Bohemia, to
the west, is one of two main regions. Besides Prague, the Czech
capital, tourists are drawn to the spa towns of Karlovy Vary and
Mariánské Lázne, and to the very beautiful region of south Bohemia.
The Elbe flows through eastern Bohemia from the Krkono˘se/Giant
mountains, one of the most popular skiing regions. The eastern part,
the rich agricultural area of Moravia offers a variety of wooded
highlands, vineyards, folk art and castles. There are many historic
towns such as Olomouc, Kromeríz and Telc. Brno is Moravia’s
administrative and cultural center.
Although for most visitors, Prague is
the Czech Republic, there is far more to see and do throughout the
country. Tourism is still in its infancy but the strides forward
since the Velvet Revolution in 1989 have been remarkable. There are
over 3000 castles, palaces and other historic monuments throughout
the country. Equally characteristic are the country’s many important
churches from the Gothic to the Baroque periods. Spas have been an
important cultural phenomenon since the 19th century and, indeed,
there are 176 spas in the country today. The Czech Republic has four
National Parks, 24
Protected Landscape Areas,
113 National Nature Reserves, 453 Nature Reserves, 99 National
Nature Monuments and 850 Nature Monuments, most of which have only
been founded since 1990. The country is divided into two provinces:
Bohemia in the west and Moravia in the east.
Prague
Picturesquely sited on the banks of the Vltava (Moldau) River,
Prague has always played an important part in the history of Europe.
It is noted for magnificent Gothic, Baroque, Romanesque, Belle
Epoque/Art Nouveau and Cubist architecture, as well as its cultural
scene of elegance. Since the fall of Communism, Prague has rapidly
regained its cafe culture and is again very much the ‘Paris of the
East’. The city’s historical center, never bombed in World War II,
is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. Key places to visit are
the Hradcany complex of Prazsky hrad (Prague Castle), including
Palace rooms like the Vladislavsky sál (Vladislav Hall) which was
once used by Bohemian knights for jousting, the Katedrála sv Víta (St
Vitus Cathedral) and the Basilica of sv Jirí (St George Basilica).
Views over the Vltava, spanned by many bridges, including the famous
medieval Karluv most (Charles Bridge), contribute to Prague’s
reputation as a ‘fairytale city’. The Lesser Town (Mala Strana)
beneath the castle is a quarter of winding, narrow streets with
palaces from the 17th and 18th centuries and small artisan houses.
The Old Town (Stare Mesto) across the Charles Bridge includes
important tourist sites like the Old Town Hall (Staromestska radnice)
with its astronomical clock, the Gothic Tyn Church behind the square
and the Jewish Town with its old cemetery and six synagogues. The
area around Vaclavske namesti (Wenceslas Square) is the principal
shopping area of the city. To the south is Vysehrad with its Slavin
Cemetery honoring the intellectuals and artists, and its Cubist
villas.
Excursions
Near to Prague is a grim reminder of the horrors of World War II –
the site of the ‘show’ concentration camp at Terezin, which is now a
museum. Also in the area are the castles of Karlstejn, Krivoklat and
Konopiste. Near Karlstejn is the Cesky kras (Bohemian Karst), a
region of limestone caves, of which Konepruské jeskyne is open to
the public. The historic silver mining town of Kutna Hora with the
dominating Gothic cathedral of sv Barbora (St Barbara) is another
UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site. North of Prague, at the confluence of
the Vltava and the Labe rivers, is Melník, with its Zamek (Castle),
built by the Lobkowitz family; this area is now returning to its
former role as an important wine-making region.
Bohemia
Heavy industrialization in Northern Bohemia has taken its toll and
many of the forests suffer greatly from the effects of acid rain. A
start to correcting this situation has been made but it will be many
years before significant results are shown. However, the north
remains a popular destination with Czech and German tourists. Much
of the area’s interest lies in the sandstone ‘rock-cities’ (spectacular
mini-canyons and steep bluffs of volcanic rocks in a densely
forested area) of the Cesky Svycarsko (Bohemian Switzerland)
especially around Tisa, the Cesky raj (Bohemian paradise) between
Turnov and Jicin and the area around Broumov. The Krkonoše (Giant)
Mountains National Park of northeast Bohemia offers superb scenery,
excellent hiking and many downhill and cross-country ski and
snowboarding facilities; Spindleruv Mlyn, on the banks of River Labe,
is the most visited mountain town in the park.
Southwest of Prague, Plzen, the second-largest city in Bohemia,
boasts eclectic architecture from the Gothic to Art Nouveau,
interesting museums and galleries like the Brewery Museum and the
Západoceské Galérie (one of the best art galleries outside Prague),
and the world-famous Pilsner beer to which the town has given
its name; beer had been brewed since the town’s foundation in 1295
but it was only in 1842 that the Pilsner style was established.
Guided tours of the Plzensky Prazdroj brewery are available.
The Trebonsko region of south Bohemia is made up of peat bogs and
marshes, with linked fish-farming ponds dating from the 15th century;
carp is the traditional Christmas Day dish in the Czech lands and
fish farming still dominates the region. Trebon is a perfect
medieval spa town right in the middle of the area of fish ponds. The
enormous Zamek (Castle) was built by Peter Vok, the last Rozmberk
heir, who was fond of alchemy, sex and drugs; its large ‘English
park’ now provides walks for the spa patients.
Southern Bohemia, with its lakes and woods, has for a long time been
a favorite holiday place for families, since it has many
recreational facilities and points of historic interest. The country
is also famed for its caves: the rock formation of the mountain
ranges form underground rivers and chambers decorated above and
below with stalactites and stalagmites. Ceske Budejovice (Budweis),
whose wealth was founded on silver mines, and the salt route from
Linz to Prague boasts one of Europe’s largest town squares. However,
it is the local beer, Budvar (Budweiser) which is the town’s
main claim to fame. The medieval town of Cesky Krumlov (a UNESCO
Cultural Heritage Site) has its enormous castle perched on a ridge
above the young River Vltava, and the region to the border is full
of castles, monasteries and churches. The Sumava/Bohemian Forest
towards the German border is the country’s largest National Park,
and with the Bavarian Forest across the border forms the largest
forest complex in Europe. The park includes glacial lakes, many
areas of virgin forest and important historic monuments. Good
wintersports centers include Zelezna Ruda, Spicak, Zadov, Churanov
and Kramolin. The northern shore of Lake Lipno has many small
popular summer resorts and is a good location for exploring the
Sumava.
In western Bohemia, the health resorts or spas remain one of the
country’s primary attractions, with their many springs, graceful
colonnades and parks, spectacular houses and hotels. By the 19th
century, the combination of their cures and their position at the
meeting point of the two German-speaking empires made them the focal
point of central Europe. Beethoven, Wagner, Edward VII and Goethe
all admired the resort of Marianske Lazne (Marienbad), whilst the
town of Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad), the king of the spas, has attracted
the crowned heads of Europe to bathe in its sulphurous waters.
Frantiskovy Lazne, however, is the most typical spa town, laid out
in perfect symmetry with delightful parks and 24 springs used to
cure heart disease and infertility. There is also a nature reserve
near the town.
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Bohemia - Czech Republic |
Moravia
Brno, the capital of Moravia, dates from the 13th century and has
the fine Moravian Museum; an important Augustinian Monastery where
the great geneticist, Mendel, was Abbot; the Capuchin Church with
its mummies; and the Gothic Špilberk Castle. A large number of
international trade fairs take place in the Brno Exhibition Center.
To the northeast is the Moravsky krás, the area of great limestone
caves around Blansko. To the northwest, the Gothic castle of
Pernstejn is probably closest to most people’s idea of what a
medieval castle should look like; the hour-long train journey to it
up the Svratka Valley is an attractive trip. Southwest of Brno,
three towns in particular stand out as tourist locations: Moravsky
Krumlov with its Mucha Gallery, including great pictures, such as
‘Slovanska epopej’ (The Slav Epic), Slavkov (Austerlitz), near the
Napoleonic battlefield, and Bucovice, whose castle features the
remarkable Zajeci sal (The Hall of Hares) with murals of hares
revenging themselves on men and dogs.
In the Vysocina (Bohemian-Moravian Uplands) to the east, the towns
of Telc (a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site) and Slavonice are two of
the most perfect examples of Renaissance towns in Europe. Telc,
including the Zamec (Castle), was completely rebuilt after the fire
of 1530; medieval arcades surround the town square with its gabled
and pedimented houses. Slavonice is another old town founded on
silver mining. In Zdar nad Sazavou, about 40km (25 miles) northeast
of Jihlava, the Cistercian monastery and pilgrimage church dedicated
to sv Jan Nepomucky (St John of Nepomuk) was designed by Prague-born
Giovanni Santini, one of the greatest artists of the Czech Counter-Reformation,
who married Gothic and Baroque forms, often with a humor lacking in
other architects. Nearby in Ostrov nad Oslavou, he designed a
hostinec (pub) shaped like the letter ‘W’ to honor a fellow
architect, and the village church at Obyctov, shaped like a turtle,
one of the Virgin Mary’s more obscure symbols.
The area between the small wine-making towns of Lednice and Valtice
was once a possession of the Grand Dukes of Liechtenstein. Several
impressive castles, landscaped parks and structural follies are
dotted over an area of 250 sq km (96 sq miles), broken up by
numerous ponds and forests. To the west, the area between Znojmo and
Vranov on the River Dyji (Thaya in German) is an area of untouched
river valley, now a joint National Park on both sides of the
Austrian border. Northeast of Brno, Kromeriz (also accessible as a
day trip from Prague) is a beautifully preserved Baroque town; its
great Bishop’s Palace includes an important art collection (including
paintings from the auction after the execution of the English
Charles I), and superb water gardens which run down to the banks of
the Morava river.
Despite many ecological disaster zones and the great – and
unpleasant – industrial center of Ostrava, northern Moravia has much
to offer the independent traveller. Olomouc, now happily recovered
from its era as a Soviet garrison, is once again an attractive
university town noted as much for its parks as for its Baroque
churches, sculptures and fountains. The surrounding Haná region is
strongly agricultural, with many villages having attractive harvest
festivals in late September. In the extreme north, the Jeseniky
Mountains are an eastern extension of the Bohemian Krkonose. Lazne
Jesenik is one of the many famous Czech Silesian spas founded in the
19th century; this area is excellent for hiking, with rocky outcrops,
cave systems and monuments. To the east of Ostrava, the hilly
Beskydy region (which extends through Poland into the Ukraine) is
the area of the Vlachs (Wallachs), whose culture still
survives in folklore and architecture. This area is excellent for
hiking and winter sports. The excellent open-air skansen (Folk
Museum) at Roznov pod Radhostem, begun in 1925, is the largest in
the country; another good skansen is at Velke Karlovice.
Valchs architecture can be found to the south in the villages in
the Vsetinska Becva valley, including Bzove, Jezerne and Ratkov.
Activities
Outdoor pursuits
The Czech Republic has a wealth of beautiful areas to explore. More
than 10 per cent of the country’s surface area is occupied by the
three national parks and the 1200 protected natural areas. Skiing is
a very popular activity, and there are many well-established resorts.
The most frequented areas for downhill skiing are in the Krkonoše
(Giant Mountains) in northern Bohemia, where Pec pod Snezkou,
Spindlorov Mlyn and Harachov are the main resorts.
Facilities are also to be found in the Jeseniky and
Besniky ranges, and in the
Orlické Hory (Eagle
Mountains). Cross-country skiing is also a widespread sport, and
facilities and tracks are to be found not only in the Krkonoše,
but also in the Šumava (Bohemian Forest) in southern Bohemia.
In summer, these areas become havens for hikers, and contain well-marked
trails. The Krkonoše are the Czech Republic’s highest
mountain range, with the country’s highest peak, Snezka
(1602m/5255ft). Several other peaks exceed 1500m (4920ft). Less
strenuous walks can be pursued in other natural areas, such as the
Beskidy range. Rock climbers should go to the sandstone rock
formations in the north (Cesky raj, Adršpach Rocks and
Ceskosaské švycarsko). Cavers should go to the Moravsky
Kras (Moravian karst) near Brno, where there are interesting
caves. Cycling is emerging as a popular pastime, and the network of
cycle tracks is growing. Southern Bohemia is a good region for this.
Horse riding is very popular, with many stables offering riding
holidays or treks. Contact the Czech Horse Riding Federation for
more information (tel: (2) 2051 1105; fax (2) 3335 4399).
Watersports
There are many lakes, both natural and artificial, and a variety of
watersports can be pursued there. South Bohemia and Lednice-Valtice
(south Moravia) contain extensive fishing lakes. For more
information on fishing, contact the Czech Angling Federation (tel:
(2) 7481 1751; fax: (2) 7481 1754). Canoeing is done on rivers such
as the Luznice, upper Vltava and Sazava.
Windsurfing and sailing equipment can be hired at various locations.
Golf
This sport is increasingly popular, with some beautiful courses.
Contact the Czech Golf Federation for more information (tel: (2)
5731 7865; fax: (2) 5731 8618).
Spas
The many thermal springs and mineral baths in Bohemia and Moravia
have been frequented by patients seeking cures for various ailments
for centuries. Nowadays, advanced medical techniques are combined
with traditional methods of treatment. The best known spas are at
Karlovy Vary, Marianské Lazne and Frantiˇskovy Lazné (see the
Where to Go section for details). There are world-famous
radioactive springs in Jáchymov, which specializes in the treatment
of disorders of the nervous system, while Janské Lazne in the
Krkonoše is also a very popular resort. In northern Moravia, the
most significant spas are at Jesenik and Luhacovice, where Vincenc
Priessnitz, a local doctor, developed methods of treatment which are
still followed today. All the spa resorts are located in beautiful
surroundings.
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