Central Italy: The northern part of the Italian peninsula. Tuscany (Toscana) has a diverse landscape with snow-capped mountains (the Tuscan Appennines), lush countryside, hills and a long sandy coastline with offshore islands. Le Marche, lying between the Appennines and the Adriatic coast, is a region of mountains, rivers and small fertile plains. The even more mountainous regioni (administrative districts) of Abruzzo and Molise are bordered by Marche to the north and Puglia to the south, and are separated from the Tyrrhenian Sea and to the west by Lazio and Campania. Umbria is known as the ‘green heart of Italy’; hilly with broad plains, olive groves and pines. Further south lies Rome, Italy’s capital and largest city. Within its precincts is the Vatican City. Southern Italy: Campania consists of flat coastal plains and low mountains, stretching from Baia Domizia to the Bay of Naples and along a rocky coast to the Calabria border. Inland, the Appennines are lower, mellowing into the rolling countryside around Sorrento. The islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida in the Tyrrhenian Sea are also part of Campania. The south is wilder than the norh, with mile upon mile of olive trees, cool forests and rolling hills. Puglia, the ‘heel of the boot’, is a landscape of volcanic hills and isolated marshes. Calabria, the ‘toe’, is heavily forested and thinly populated. The Calabrian hills are home to bears and wolves. The Islands: Sicily (Sicilia), visible across a 3km- (2 mile-) strait from mainland Italy, is fertile but mountainous with volcanoes (including the famous landmark of Mount Etna) and lava fields, and several offshore islands. Sardinia (Sardegna) has a mountainous landscape, fine sandy beaches and rocky offshore islands.

Rome
Capital of Italy and the country’s largest city, Rome, littered with relics of over 2000 years of history, exerts an enduring fascination over its countless visitors. The monuments of ancient times and the splendors of the Baroque are the backdrop to the hectic buzz of swarming scooters, bellowing motorists and animated street cafes.
The streets contain reminders of all the eras in Rome’s rich history – the Colosseum and the Forum are the most famous from the classical period and ancient basilicas bear witness to the early Christian era. The influence of the 17th century can be seen through the work of architects such as Bernini, Borromini and Maderno. Magnificent squares and flamboyant façades mask a wealth of painting and sculpture by some of the greatest High Renaissance and Baroque artists – Caracci, Caravaggio, Michelangelo and Raphael, to name but a few.
Via del Corso, Rome’s main thoroughfare, cuts through the length of the city center from Piazza Venezia in the south, with the vast marble Vittorio Emanuele Monument (erected to commemorate the unification of Italy and honor her first king), to emerge in Piazza del Popolo in the north, beyond which lies the cool green refuge of the Villa Borghese. East of Via del Corso lie the elegant shopping streets including Via Borgognona and Via Condotti which lead up to Piazza di Spagna (the famous Spanish Steps). At the nearby Trevi Fountain, visitors guarantee their return to Rome by throwing a coin into the waters. West of Via del Corso, a maze of narrow streets winds its way down to the River Tiber. It is here, in the historic center of Rome, that the most complete ancient Roman structure is found: the Pantheon, on Piazza della Rotonda, built by Emperor Hadrian and completed in AD 125. Monumental in scale, the diameter of the dome and its height are precisely equal, while the interior is illuminated by sunlight entering through a 9m (30ft) hole in the dome’s roof. Just beyond the Pantheon lies Piazza Navona, a long thin square, on a classical site, rebuilt in the 17th century in High Baroque style.
Across the River Tiber is the Vatican City (see below). Close by stands the circular hulk of Castel Sant’Angelo, burial place of Emperor Hadrian and the papal city’s main fortified defense in later times. Moving south, the district of Trastevere is the city’s alternative focus and is home to numerous bars, restaurants and nightclubs.
There is a useful tourist information line providing general information on the city of Rome from multilingual personnel (tel: (06) 3600 4399).

Vatican City
On the west bank of the Tiber, the Vatican City is an independent sovereign state, best known for the magnificent St Peter’s Basilica. The Basilica is approached through the 17th-century St Peter’s Square, a superb creation by Bernini, enclosed by two semi-circular colonnades, with an Egyptian obelisk in the center. To the right of St Peter’s stands the Vatican Palace, the Pope’s residence. Among the principal features of the Palace are the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum. The Vatican Gardens can be visited only by those on guided tours. For further information, see the separate Vatican City country section.

Valle d’Aosta
A ruggedly scenic region, sitting at the foot of Europe’s highest mountains – Cervino (Matterhorn), Gran Paradiso, Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa – bordering France and Switzerland, Valle d’Aosta is politically autonomous and to some extent culturally distinct from the rest of Italy; French is spoken as a first language by most of the inhabitants. The picturesque ruins of countless castles (some of which are open to the public, eg Fenis and Issogne) testify to the region’s immense strategic significance before the era of air travel, it being the gateway to two of the most important routes through the Alps, the Little and Great St Bernard Passes. However, the Mont Blanc Tunnel has largely superseded the St Bernard Passes as a major overland freight route.
The Gran Paradiso National Park, home to wildlife including the chamois and ibex, is a popular destination for hillwalkers and climbers. There are several fine ski resorts in the area, most notably Breuil-Cervinia and Courmayeur. One of Italy’s few casinos is found at St Vincent.

Aosta
The principal city of Valle d’Aosta has many well-preserved Roman and Medieval buildings. The massive Roman city walls remain mostly intact and, within them, the old town retains the grid-iron street plan characteristic of all such military townships. An impressive gateway, the Porta Pretoria, formed the main entrance into the old Roman town. During the Middle Ages a noble family lived in the gatehouse tower, which now houses temporary exhibitions. Further ancient Roman sites include the Teatro Romano, where theatrical performances are still staged throughout summer, and the Arco di Augusto, erected in 25 BC to honor Emperor Augustus, after whom the city is named (Aosta being a corruption of Augustus).

Piedmont
The densely populated Upper Po Basin, a vast plain dotted with gargantuan factories and crisscrossed by motorways, is the site of Italy’s most important heavy industries. By contrast, the mountains to the west, on the border with France, are sparsely populated and have an economy based on agriculture and winter tourism (the main ski resorts being Bardonecchia, Sansicario and Sestriere).
The wine region of Le Langhe offers a landscape of terraced vineyards, old hilltop towns and, owing to the small number of visitors, is a quiet and peaceful region to stay. The region produces several noted wines, the best known being the sweet, sparkling white, Asti Spumante, from Asti, and the bold red, Barolo, from Alba.

Turin
Turin (Torino) is the largest city in the region and the fourth-largest in the country. Through the early years of the 20th century, it was the automobile capital of the world. It was here that the Futurists became so excited with the potential of mechanized transport that they declared Time dead – henceforth, they naïvely declared, everything would be measured in terms of speed alone. The city still remains the focus of Italy’s automobile industry. Fiat offer guided tours of their headquarters, where a full-scale test track may be found on the roof, while the Museo dell’Automobile (Automobile Museum), traces the history of the car on an international level. Turin does, of course, add up to far more than an infatuation with motor cars. The inhabitants boast that, with its broad, tree-lined avenues flanked by tall, handsome townhouses, it is La Parigi d’Italia (the Italian Paris). Uptown Turin is centered on the main shopping street, Via Roma, which links the city’s favorite square, the Piazza San Carlo, with its most dramatic building, the Baroque Palazzo Madama, which houses the Museum of Ancient Art, one of several nationally important museums in the city, and the Egyptian Museum, the second-largest in the world after Cairo. The famous Turin Shroud may be viewed in the 15th-century white marble Cathedral.

Lombardy
A prosperous region with fertile soil, a temperate climate and, for the tourist, the spectacular lakes of Como, Garda, Maggiore (shared with Piedmont) and Lugano. As in Piedmont, the Po Valley is the site of much heavy industry. High mountains in the north, marking Italy’s frontier with Switzerland, provide excellent skiing and climbing. Lombardy’s most famous culinary inventions are minestrone soup and osso buco – literally, ox knuckles.

Milan
Italy’s most sophisticated city, Milan (Milano) is a financial and commercial center of world importance and a rival to Paris in the spheres of modern art and fashion. Its international character is marked by a concentration of skyscrapers found nowhere else in Italy, contrasting and competing with the landmarks of historic Milan, but built in the same boastful spirit of civic pride that, 500 years ago, gave the city its splendid Gothic Duomo (Cathedral). Even today, this is one of the world’s largest churches, yet despite its size, it creates an impression of delicate and ethereal beauty due to its pale color and the fine intricate carving that covers its exterior. The whole fabric of the city – its many palaces, piazzas and churches – speaks of centuries of continuous prosperity. The Castello Sforzesco, in the west of the city, is a massive fortified castle, which now houses a number of museums. The Pinacoteca di Brera displays some of the city’s most valuable artistic treasures, while the Museo Poldi-Pezzoli houses a private collection of paintings, ancient jewelry and Persian carpets. Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece, The Last Supper, may be viewed at the convent of Santa Maria della Grazie. The Teatro della Scala (Scala Theater) remains the undisputed world capital of opera and is well worth viewing for its magnificent opulence.

Pavia
Just south of Milan, the town of Pavia is home to several interesting churches and the 14th-century Castello, housing an art gallery, archaeology museum and sculpture museum.
The Certosa di Pavia, 10km (6 miles) outside of town, is a monastery famous for its lavish design. Originating as the family mausoleum of the Visconti family, it later became the dwelling of a Carthusian order of monks sworn to deep contemplation and silence. However, a chosen few are allowed to give visitors a guided tour and tell the story behind their palatial surroundings.

Cremona
The birthplace of the Stradivarius violin is a charming haven of historic architecture. A walk around the Medieval Piazza del Comune offers various architectural treats: the Torazzo, one of Italy’s tallest Medieval towers; the Cathedral, with its magnificent astronomical clock; and the Loggia dei Militia, the former headquarters of the town’s Medieval army. There are also two interesting museums: the Museo Stradivariano, housing a wealth of Stradivarius musical instruments, and the Museo Civico, displaying mosaics and relics from the Romanesque period.

Mantua
Mantua (Mantova) is the birthplace of a number of renowned Italians, ranging from Virgil (a statue of whom overlooks the square facing the Broletto, the Medieval town hall) to Tazio Nuvolari, one of Italy’s most famous racing drivers (a small museum pays tribute to his accomplishments). Its churches, Sant’Andrea (designed by Alberti and the burial place of Mantua’s famous court painter, Mantegna) and the Baroque Cathedral in the Piazza Sordello are both important works of architecture. However, the most famous sites of Mantua are its two palaces: the Palazzo Ducale and the Palazzo del Te. The Palazzo Ducale, once the largest in Europe, was the home of the Gonzaga family, and has a number of impressive paintings by artists such as Mantegna and Rubens. The Palazzo del Te was built as a Renaissance pleasure palace for Frederico Gonzaga (known as a playboy) and his mistress, Isabella. The decorations by Giulio Romano are outstanding and well worth viewing.

Bergamo
Nestled at the foot of the Bergamese Alps, Bergamo is made up of two cities – the old and once Venetian-ruled Upper Bergamo (Bergamo Alta) and the modern Lower Bergamo (Bergamo Bassa). The old city is well appreciated for its ancient Venetian fortifications, palaces, towers and churches, including the 12th-century Palazzo della Ragione, the Torre del Comune, the Cathedral, the Colleoni Chapel and the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. The modern city’s main attraction is the Accademia Carrara, one of Italy’s largest art collections, with paintings by Bellini, Botticelli, Canaletto, Carpaccio, Lotto and Mantegna, amongst others. The two cities are connected by a funicular railway.

The Lakes
The great northern lakes lie in a series of long, deep valleys running down onto the plains from the Alps. Lake Como is perhaps the most attractive, Lake Maggiore the most elegant (and populous) and Lake Garda the wildest and most spectacular. On the south shore of Lake Garda lies the peninsula of Sirmione, renowned for its mild, Mediterranean climate, its beautiful countryside and the Caves of Catullo, an archaeological site of a former Roman villa situated on the tip of the peninsula. The Sirmione Spa, the largest privately owned thermal treatment center in Italy, whose sulphurous waters originate from the depths of Lake Garda, has long been one of Sirmione’s main attractions. There is plenty of accommodation available as well as frequent boat services to other lakeside towns and villages.

Liguria
This is a region of 320km (200 miles) of rocky, wooded coastline running from France to Tuscany, where the Italian ‘boot’ begins. This is the Riviera, Italy’s answer to the Côte d’Azur, and there are ample facilities for tourists even in the smallest of ports. The coastal hills are less developed.

Genoa
Genoa (Genova), capital of Liguria, has long been an important commercial and military port. Ferries depart daily from the port for Sardinia. The Medieval district of the city holds many treasures, such as the Church of Sant’Agostino (next to the Museo dell’Architettura e Scultura Ligure), the beautiful Church of San Donato, the 12th-century Church of Santa Maria di Castello, the Gothic Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the Porta Soprana (the old stone entrance gate to the city). Outside the Medieval district, Via Garibaldi, where many of the city’s richest inhabitants built their palaces, is a beautiful walk, with Palazzo Bianco (now an art gallery with paintings by Rubens and Van Dyck), Palazzo Podesta and the magnificently decorated Palazzo Rosso (adjacent to Palazzo Bianco and housing paintings by Caravaggio, Dürer and Titian). The Acquario (Aquarium) presents underwater ocean life, with 1000 species housed in 50 vast tanks, making it the largest center of its kind in Europe.

The Riviera
This narrow strip of coastline is divided into two sections: the Riviera di Ponente (to the west), from Ventimiglia to Genoa, and the Riviera di Levante (to the east), from Genoa to La Spezia. The former includes wide sandy beaches and the rather commercial seaside resorts of San Remo and Bordighera, while the latter boasts small bays backed by rocky cliffs and more exclusive retreats such as Portofino and Cinque Terre. Portofino is the best known, with its small picturesque harbor full of sleek yachts, its luxury clothes shops, its romantic villas owned by the rich and famous perched on the hillside and the Castello di San Giorgio, sitting high up on a promontory with magnificent views of the Portofino harbor and bay. The beach at Santa Margherita Ligure, just 5km (3 miles) south of Portofino, is an excellent place to swim, with a magical view of the surrounding cliffs and villas from the warm and crystal-clear aquamarine water. Nearby Rapallo, 8km (5 miles) south of Portofino, is less fashionable and subsequently less expensive. At the southern tip of the Riviera di Levante lie Cinque Terre, a series of five picturesque fishing villages linked by scenic mountainside paths and surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. Here one finds the region’s least exploited beaches.

Trentino & Alto Aldige
These wholly mountainous regions on the Swiss border straddle the valley of the River Isarco, which flows from the Brenner Pass, into the River Adige and thence into the Mediterranean. Germanic and Italian cultures blend here to the extent that, towards the north, German is increasingly found as the first language. The Dolomites to the east are a range of distinctively craggy mountains, isolated to such an extent from both Italy and Switzerland that, in the more remote valleys, the inhabitants speak Ladin, an ancient Romance language not much different from Latin. The area is traversed by clearly marked mountain paths and served by numerous hostels, making it ideal for hiking and climbing.

Trentino
The principal town of Trentino is Trento, worth visiting for its wealth of art works, gathered by the dynasty of princes who ruled the area between the 10th and 18th centuries. Many of these artistic acquisitions are viewable in the town’s museums, which include the Castello di Buonconsiglio, Museo Diocesano Trentino and the Museo Provinciale d’Arte.

Alto Adige
Bolzano is the principal town of Alto Aldige, further north. A somewhat austere commercial town, it appears as an unlikely portal to one of the most extraordinary panoramic drives in Italy – the mountain route through the Dolomites to Cortina d’Ampezzo called La Grande Strada delle Dolomiti. Upon entering the Val d’Ega, at the beginning of the route, the scenery is suddenly lush with foliage and rocks as the light seeps through the forest trees. About 20km (12 miles) from the beginning of the route is Lake Carezza, a beautiful limpid pool of bright green water reflecting the trees and mountains around it. This is just the beginning of an awe-inspiring passage through the Dolomites and its small alpine towns, ski resorts and endless panoramas of craggy peaks and tree-clad mountainsides. One of the most famous mountain resorts and the second-largest town in this region is Merano, 28km (17 miles) north of Bolzano. Popular for its spas, thermal waters and moderate climate (the temperature tends to remain above freezing all winter, despite its close proximity to a range of snow-laden ski slopes), it is also visually rewarding, with extensive landscaped gardens and a charming mixture of architectural styles from Gothic to Art Nouveau. The Merano Valley is dotted with historic castles, several of which have been transformed into charming castle hotels.

Veneto
Veneto comprises the Lower Po Valley, the eastern bank of Lake Garda and the eastern Dolomites, occupying what was once the Republic of Venice. On the Adriatic coast lie several rather commercial seaside resorts, such as Jesolo, while high in the Dolomites, the chic town of Cortina d’Ampezzo is probably Italy’s best-known (but not most challenging) ski resort. The Winter Olympics were held here in 1956. It makes a fine base for exploring the Dolomites in summer.

Venice

The Venetian islands of Burano (famous for lacemaking), Murano (famous for glassmaking) and Torcello (noted for the magnificent Byzantine Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta) can be visited by boat.
Note: The city is linked to Mestre, on the mainland, by a causeway which can be crossed by road or rail. Although there is a large car park in Venice, at the end of the causeway, it is easier and cheaper to park in Mestre and continue by train.

Padua
The city of Padua (Padova) is famous for the great, seven-domed 13th-century Basilica of St Anthony; St Anthony was buried here and it is an important pilgrimage site. Inside, the bronzes on the main altar are by Donatello, as is the equestrian statue in front of the entrance. Padua’s other main attraction is the tiny Scrovegni Chapel, decorated with a stunning cycle of 14th-century biblical frescoes by Giotto. Padua’s other delights include Prato della Valle, a vast square with a central green space, and the Orto Botanico, botanical gardens dating back to 1545, making it the oldest place of its kind in Europe.

Vicenza
Dating back to Roman times, Vicenza is best known for the 16th-century works of Andrea Palladio, whose published analyses of ancient architecture did much to spread the Renaissance throughout Europe. His buildings here include the monumental Basilica Palladiana, the Teatro Olimpico with its brilliantly painted stage-set, and the Palazzo Chiericati, home to the Museo Civico. A short distance out of town stands one of Palladio’s finest villas, La Rotonda, a model of Renaissance architecture, based on a square plan with four identical façades.

Verona
A graceful city built upon the banks of the River Adige, Verona was the setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. The Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s House), a small Medieval home with a balcony and courtyard, attracts thousands of visitors each year. The other big attraction is the well-preserved Roman Arena, built in AD 290 and able to accommodate over 20,000 spectators. An opera festival, with open-air night-time performances, is staged here throughout summer. The 14th-century red-brick Castelvecchio, next to the river, houses an extensive art museum, with important Renaissance paintings and sculpture from northern Italy. The city’s most noted church is the lovely Romanesque San Zeno.

Verona - Italy

Riviera del Brenta
During the 16th century, the banks of this waterway linking Venice and Padua became a popular place for aristocrats and wealthy merchants to build their ‘country’ villas. From March to October, daily boat trips run from Venice to Padua, with stops en route to admire several of the villas, such as Villa Foscari at Malcontenta, designed by Palladio, and the 18th-century Villa Pisani at Stra.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia
This region in the northeastern corner of Italy bordering Austria and Slovenia has changed hands many times over the centuries and Friulian society is a complex mix of cultures. Half of the population speak Friulian, a language closely allied to Latin.

Trieste
In the 18th century, Austro-Hungary commissioned the construction of a deep-water port at Trieste and so ended Venice’s long domination of the Adriatic Sea. Following the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I, Trieste was ceded to Italy. The city’s most prominent buildings date from the Hapsburg era, the most beautiful being Miramare Castle which is set amid beautifully landscaped gardens overloooking the sea, and is open to the public.

Elsewhere
The coast west of Trieste has several popular beach resorts, such as Grado. The area inland from Trieste is known for its Karst landscape and caves. The Grotta Gigante (Giant Grotto) is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the largest accessible cave in the world.
Inland are Pordenone and Udine, agricultural centers on the fertile Friuli plain. Further north are the foothills of the eastern Dolomites and the Julian Alps (part of Slovenia), where ski resorts are now being developed. The road from Udine to Villach in Austria is an important overland freight route; it winds up the dramatic valley of the Isonzo, a river rendered an astonishing shade of blue by minerals leached from the Julian Alps.

Emilia-Romagna
A region of gentle hills between the River Po and the Appennines. As elsewhere in the Po Basin, intensive agriculture is pursued alongside heavy industry. The region is famed for culinary delights such as bolognese sauce and mortadella (a specially prepared type of sausage) from Bologna, and Parmesan cheese and Parma ham from Parma.

Bologna
One of the oldest cities in Italy and the site of Europe’s oldest university. Often overlooked as a tourist destination, it nevertheless possesses a distinctive charm, due largely to the imaginative use of brickwork. A total 45km (28 miles) of arcades flank many of the streets, and a 3.6km- (2.3 mile-) stretch leads all the way out of town to the hilltop Basilica di San Luca. The main square, Piazza Maggiore, is dominated by the huge Gothic Church of San Petronio, while on Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, the Torre degli Asinelli and the leaning Torre Garisenda are the only survivors of numerous towers that were built across the city in Medieval times.

Ravenna
Sometimes referred to as the ‘Capital of Mosaics’, between the sixth and eighth centuries Ravenna was the principal center of Byzantine civilization in Italy. The city’s former importance is recorded by a profusion of early Byzantine and Christian monuments decorated with stunning mosaics, notably the splendid Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the octagonal Basilica di San Vitale, and the churches of San Apollonare Nuovo and Sant’Apollinare in Classe, all of which are UNESCO-listed World Heritage Sites.

Elsewhere
Parma boasts a fine Romanesque cathedral and baptistery, and an opera house with strong connections with Verdi, who lived at nearby Sant’Agata. Faenza (known to the French as ‘Faience’) is famed for its majolica pottery. Other cities in Emilia-Romagna include Modena and Ferrara, both with many fine palaces associated with the Este family; and Reggio, the old provincial capital. The seaside resort of Rimini is renowned for its lively party scene, with numerous nightclubs on the beach throughout summer.

Tuscany
This fertile region lies between the northern Appennines and the Mediterranean Sea. The landscape of Tuscany is, typically, one of vine-covered hills, cypress woods, fields of sunflowers and remote hilltop villages. Chianti, the best-known Italian wine, is made in the area north of Siena, and several wine cellars are open to the public. There are a number of volcanic spas, most notably Monsummano Terme and Montecatini Terme. Regarding the coast, the Versalia, to the north, offers a 30km- (18-mile) stretch of organized bathing establishments, while the beaches to the south are less exploited.

Florence
The principal Tuscan city, Florence (Firenze) is the world’s most celebrated storehouse of Renaissance art and architecture. Set on the banks of the Arno below the wooded foothills of the Appennines, this beautiful city has long been the focus of Italian arts and letters. Alberti, Boccaccio, Botticelli, Brunelleschi, Dante, Donatello, Fra Angelico, Giotto, Leonardo da Vinci, Masaccio, Michelangelo, Petrarch and Vasari are among the many associated with establishing the pre-eminence of the city. Brunelleschi’s revolutionary design for the dome of the Duomo (Cathedral) is generally accepted as the first expression of Renaissance ideas in architecture. This dome still dominates the city’s roofscape, just as the great Piazza del Duomo at its feet dominates life at street level. The square is ringed with cafés and is a popular meeting point. Between there and the river are many of the best-loved palazzi (palaces), whilst close by to the north are the churches of San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella. The shop-lined Ponte Vecchio bridge scans the river to arrive at Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens. Just along from the bridge, at via Maggio, is the St Marks English Church, built in 1881. Here, visitors can find a portion of wall stencilling by G.F. Bodley (1827-1907), the famous Victorian Neo-Gothic architect and designer, pupil of Sir Gilbert Scott.
The Uffizi Gallery houses one of the world’s most celebrated art collections including masterpieces such as Botticelli’s Birth Of Venus, Caravaggio’s Young Bacchus, Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation, Michelangelo’s Holy Family and Titian’s Urbino Venus. Some of the country’s most important sculptures are found within the Museo Nazionale del Bargello, notably works by Michelangelo and Donatello. Michelangelo’s famous statue of David may be viewed at the Accademia di Belle Arti near the University.

Siena
Siena’s most prosperous era pre-dated the Renaissance and consequently much of the fabric of the city is in the older Gothic and Romanesque styles. While most buildings are of reddish-brown brick (hence the color ‘burnt sienna’), the stunning Cathedral is constructed of alternating stripes of black and white marble, and is said to be one of the best examples of Italian Gothic architecture. The labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets that make up the historic center converge at Piazza del Campo. Overlooked by the giant campanile of the Palazzo Pubblico, this is possibly the most complete Medieval piazza in Italy. Twice a year, on July 2 and August 16, a notorious bareback horserace known as the Palio is held here. It has been a special event since the 13th century and attracts crowds from all over the world. The 700-year-old university holds a summer school in Italian.

Pisa
Located north of Siena, Pisa is famous for its Leaning Tower, a free-standing campanile or bell tower. Closed to the public since 1990, the tower has now reopened following a lengthy restoration project to reduce its tilt. Next to the tower, on Campo dei Miracoli, stand the elegant 11th-century Gothic Cathedral and the Baptistry. Nearby, the 13th-century Camposanto is a cemetery contained within a unique collonaded courtyard, said to have been built to enclose earth brought from Jerusalem by the Crusaders.

Arezzo
Arezzo is made up of an old upper town and a modern lower town, and is an important center for the production of gold jewelry. Within the old town lie the Duomo, decorated with 16th-century stained glass windows, and the Basilica di San Francesco, containing a highly esteemed cycle of frescoes by Piero della Francesca depicting the Legend of the True Cross. The Piazza Grande is a wonderful Medieval square, famous for its regular antiques market, overlooked by several impressive historic buildings, notably the church of Santa Maria della Pieve and the Loggiato del Vasari, the home Vasari built for himself in 1540.

Lucca
The peaceful walled town of Lucca is famed for its elaborate churches, which include the Cathedral of San Martino with its asymmetric façade and campanile, the striking San Frediano decorated with colorful mosaics, and San Michele in Foro, built on the site of the Roman forum. The main shopping street, Fillungo, is noted for a number of early-20th-century, Liberty-style façades.

San Gimignano
Known as the ‘city of beautiful towers’, San Gimignano is one of the best-preserved Medieval towns in Italy. During the Middle Ages, when the height of one’s tower was a symbol of prestige, families vied to build the tallest structure. Today, 14 of the original 76 towers remain, creating a truly unforgettable skyline.

The Tuscan Archipelago
The Tuscan Archipelago is a group of scattered islands lying between Tuscany and Corsica. The best known is Elba, which is linked to Piombino on the mainland by regular hydrofoil and ferry services. Famous as the place where Napoleon was briefly exiled before his final defeat at Waterloo, it has lovely beaches and campsites shaded by pines. Napoleon’s two homes, Palazzina Napoleonica dei Mulini (created out of two windmills) and Villa Napoleonica di San Martino are both open to the public.

Elsewhere
Other places of note in Tuscany are Volterra, a beautifully preserved Medieval hilltown; Livorno, the principal commercial port; and Carrara, where high-grade white marble has been quarried since Etruscan times.

Umbria
Sometimes referred to as ‘the green heart of Italy’, Umbria is a small, hilly and fairly untouched region between Tuscany and Marche, with little industry and few towns of any great size. The landscape is similar to that of Tuscany and combines austere Medieval architecture and stone farmhouses with gently rolling hills and rivers. Lake Trasimeno is contained within the Trasimeno Regional Park, and serves as a seasonal home to many species of migrating birds, while the River Nera Regional Park contains the Marmore Waterfalls, the highest falls in Italy. Umbria’s rich history is still very much in evidence: traces of Umbri, Etruscan and Roman cultures exist alongside Medieval and Renaissance architecture in towns such as Assisi, Orvieto, Perugia and Spoleto.

Perugia
Umbria’s capital has been continuously inhabited for more than 25 centuries and contains many Etruscan and Roman remains. Particularly notable are the ancient Etruscan city walls, the Piazza IV Novembre with the Cathedral, and the Fontana Maggiore (Great Fountain). On the top floor of the 14th-century Palazzo dei Priori, the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria contains one of the world’s finest collections of Renaissance paintings, with works by Piero della Francesca, Perugino, Beato Angelico and others. The state-funded Università per Stranieri (University for Foreigners) offers courses for foreigners wishing to study Italian language and civilization. Perugia is less than two hours by car from Florence and Rome, and one hour from Siena.

Assisi
A picturesque Medieval hilltown to the east of Perugia, Assisi is famous as the birthplace of St Francis, founder of the Franciscan order of monks. The life of St Francis is commemorated in frescoes by Giotto in the 13th-century Basilica di San Francesco, one of Italy’s best-loved and most-visited churches. Other interesting sites include the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli and the Roman Temple of Minerva.

Orvieto
Orvieto is a Medieval city perched on a volcanic outcrop. The well-preserved city center has a number of sites and buildings dating from the Etruscan period. Orvieto’s most memorable monument is the Duomo (Cathedral), which cleverly mixes Romanesque and Gothic styles.

Spoleto
The peaceful streets of the romantic hilltown of Spoleto come alive each year for the world-renowned Summer Festival, featuring music, theater and a range of other cultural events. The town has several interesting Roman monuments, including the classical Arch of Druso and the Roman Theater, plus the Medieval Ponte delle Torri bridge and a number of delightful Romanesque churches.

Gubbio & Todi
Other important Umbrian towns include Gubbio, a well-preserved Medieval town situated at the foot of Mount Ingino and home to the famous Gubbio Tablets – the oldest surviving record of the Umbrian people; and Todi, overlooking the Tiber valley, whose beautiful Medieval square is surrounded by a wealth of historic buildings, including the 13th-century Palazzo del Popolo, the Palazzo del Capitano and the Cathedral.

Marche, Abruzzo & Molise
Marche
A mountainous agricultural region on the central Adriatic coast, south of San Marino. The regional capital is Ancona, an important naval and commercial port, with daily ferry services to Albania, Croatia, Greece and Montenegro. The city is also home to several well-preserved Roman remains such as the Arco di Traiano and the Anfiteatro Romano. The majestic hilltop Basilica di San Ciriaco, built in the 11th century, combines Romanesque style with Byzantine elements. Out of town, along the coast, lie several highly organized beach resorts, with sunbeds and umbrellas laid out in neat lines. A more informal beach is found below the spectacular Costa Conero cliffs, a few miles south of Ancona.
Urbino was once Italy’s greatest seat of learning and is now a pleasant Renaissance hilltown, its skyline a soaring vista of domes and towers. Also the birthplace of Raphael, several of his works may be viewed in the art gallery at the Ducal Palace, along with works by Piero della Francesca and Titian. Raphael’s childhood home is also open for viewing. Loreto, said to be the site of the house of the Virgin Mary, attracts many pilgrims from around the world. According to legend, the house was carrried here from Nazareth by angels, and is now enclosed in the elaborate Gothic Santuario della Santa Casa. The Madonna of Loreto was elected patron saint of airmen in 1920.

Abruzzo
This region encompasses the highest parts of the great Apennine chain. The northern mountains are generally too desolate for agriculture and much of the land is sparsely populated. The southern uplands are covered with a great forest of beech, which has been designated the National Park of Abruzzo. Marsican brown bears (unique to Italy), wolves, chamois and eagles may be seen here. L’Aquila, the principal city, contains an imposing castle; other noteworthy monuments include the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, a fountain with 99 spouts (one for each of the villages that founded the city) and the pink and white marble Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio. Pescara is, as its name implies, primarily a fishing port.

Molise
One of the poorest parts of mainland Italy, this area is mountainous with poor soil and a scattered population. It does, however, possess its own rugged beauty. The Matese mountain range is still the haven of wolves and various birds of prey. It also offers some excellent skiing resorts and tends not to be too crowded. The region’s capital, Campobasso, is home to Castello Monforte and the Romanesque churches of San Bartolomeo and San Giorgino.

Lazio
On the western side of the Italian ‘boot’, this is a region of volcanic hills, lakes and fine beaches that are easily reached from Rome.

Hill Towns
Inland from Rome are the hill towns known as the Castelli Romani, which are popular for excursions. Tivoli, just 40km (25 miles) east of Rome, was once the haven of the rich, first in Roman times and later during the Renaissance. It is well known for its magnificent villas and gardens, such as Villa d’Este and Villa Adriana. The pleasant town of Frascati, only 20km (12.5 miles) south of Rome, is famous for its Frascati wine, a light, delicate, dry white which has an international reputation. Castelgandolfo overlooks the spectacular Lake Albano, and is dominated by the Palazzo Pontificio, the Pope’s summer retreat.

The Coast
Ostia Lido, close to Ostia Antica, the ancient port of Rome, is a well-organized but not particularly attractive beach resort. Terracina, further south, is noted for its soft, white-sand beaches. The old town, up on a hill above the sea, is home to a Cathedral and the Roman Temple of Jupiter Anxurus, believed to have been built in the first century BC. Further south, the most exclusive seaside resort is Sperlonga. The town itself is reminiscent of a Greek island village; seemingly endless steps wind up and around through white arches, offering unexpected but spectacular views of the sea and cliffs. Down below lies a beautiful small beach; 30km (20 miles) offshore is the unspoilt island of Ponza. Still further south, the resorts of San Felice, Circeo and Sabaudia are known for clean seawater and wide, sandy beaches.
Northwest of Rome, Civitavecchia is an important naval and merchant port, with regular ferries to Sardinia.

Campania
Called Campania Felix (‘blessed country’) by the Romans because of its fertile soil, mild climate and (by southern Italian standards) plentiful water. Citrus fruits, tobacco, wheat and vegetables are grown, and the region is known for excellent wines, notably the white Greco di Tufo.
The Amalfi Coast, running along a peninsula just south of Naples, is one of the most popular regions in Italy for holidaymakers, especially those in search of sun and sand. But the added bonus for many is the extraordinary beauty of the region: sheer craggy cliffs rise over the shimmering blue-green Mediterranean waters, and everywhere there are views of hills and sea. History and culture are also present in abundance and it is easy to understand the persistent attraction of the area for visitors.

Naples
The third-largest Italian city, Naples is famous as the place where pizza was invented. Set on the Bay of Naples and overshadowed by Mount Vesuvius, the city occupies one of the most beautiful natural settings of any city in Europe. Frequently criticized for urban decay and delinquency, it is a city where splendid churches and palaces stand aside squalid tenement blocks, and where street markets sell high-quality food produce, plus counterfeit designer goods. Notable monuments include the 17th-century Palazzo Reale, built by the Bourbons, the massive stone Castel Nuovo, overlooking the sea, and the San Carlo Opera House. The impressive Museo Archeologico Nazionale houses an excellent collection of Greco-Roman artifacts, including mosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum. The Museo di Capodimonte displays porcelain and majolica pieces, plus paintings by Dutch, Italian and Spanish masters.

Mount Vesuvius
Above Naples is the bare cone of Mount Vesuvius, an active volcano, and beside it the broad sweep of the Bay of Naples and the Tyrrhennian Sea. A toll-road leads most of the way up to the summit of Vesuvius (it is the local Lover’s Lane; people also gather mushrooms here when the conditions are right); the final few hundred yards involve an easy hike up a well-maintained bare pumice track. The viewing platform is right on the rim of the caldera and provides a good view of both the steam-filled abyss and the whole of the Bay of Naples and Pompeii below. Nearby, the remains of Pompeii and Herculaneum, engulfed in the great eruption of AD 79, are a unique record of how ordinary first-century Romans lived their daily lives. Moulds of people and animals found well-preserved, buried under the burning ash, can be seen at Pompeii, and the decoration in some of the excavated villas is amazingly intact, including numerous wall paintings of gods and humans in scenes ranging from the heroic to the erotic.

Sorrento
Sorrento, now a rather commercial resort, has attracted artists for centuries. Gorky, Nietzsche and Wagner spent time here and Ibsen wrote The Ghosts while in Sorrento. The Museo Correale is an attractive 18th-century villa with a collection of decorative arts and paintings belonging to the Correale family. Outside, a walk through the gardens and vineyards brings one to a promontory overlooking the bay, offering a spectacular view of the harbor and the surrounding towns and cliffs.

Capri
Capri, one of Italy’s most lovely and most visited islands, can be reached by ferry or hydrofoil from Amalfi, Naples, Positano and Sorrento. Upon arrival at the Marina Grande, it is possible to take a boat trip to the island’s main tourist attraction, the Blue Grotto. A strenuous 45-minute uphill trek brings one to the ruins of Villa Tiberio, built as the Roman Emperor Tiberius’s luxurious retirement home. The Garden of Augustus, south of the town of Capri, is pretty but often very crowded. From here, a winding road brings one down to the sea, where it is possible to swim off the rocks.

The Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast, running from Sorrento to Salerno, is one of Europe’s most beautiful coastlines. Departing from Sorrento, the first port of call is Positano, a small exclusive resort of great beauty. Heaped high above the coast, its brightly painted houses and bougainvillaea have inspired a thousand picture postcards and draw crowds of visitors every summer. There is an excellent beach and clean seawater for bathing. Amalfi is perhaps the most well known of the region’s resort towns. However, the town still has an authentic air about it, despite its popularity with tourists. The Romanesque Cathedral with its 13th-century bell tower, located in the main square, looks entirely untouched by the contemporary hustle and bustle around it. The Cloister of Paradise, just to the right of the cathedral, also makes good viewing. There are some excellent restaurants and the local wine, Sammarco, bottled in Amalfi, is superb and inexpensive. Perched high above Amalfi, ‘closer to the sky than the seashore’, as André Gide wrote, is the former independent republic of Ravello. From here, the most spectacular views of the Amalfi Coast can be had, above all from the Villa Cimbrone where marble statues line a belvedere that is perched on the very edge of the cliff, 335m (1100ft) up.

Elsewhere
The city of Caserta to the north of Naples was the country seat of the Kings of Naples. The Baroque Royal Palace owes much to Versailles, and the surrounding gardens are magificent. South along the coast, past Salerno, the imposing Greek temples at Paestum are among the country’s best-preserved ancient relics.
Ischia, an island on the west side of the Bay of Naples, is easily accessible from Sorrento or from Naples. Although larger than Capri, it is not quite so popular with tourists, but well visited by the locals who appreciate it more for its calm and scenic beauty.

Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria
Puglia
The southeastern region of Puglia (Apulia) encompasses the forested crags of the Gargano Peninsular (home to Gargano National Park), the mostly flat Salentine peninsula (the ‘heel’ of Italy) and, between them, the Murgia, a limestone plateau riddled with caves.
With the exception of Bari and Taranto, both large industrial ports, the Apulian economy is wholly agricultural. The main products are almonds, grapes, olives, tobacco and vegetables. There are fine beaches on the Adriatic coast between Barletta and Bari. Puglia was important in Roman times as the gateway to the eastern Mediterranean. The port of Brindisi, now eclipsed by Bari in commercial terms, was the terminus of the Via Appia, along which Eastern produce was conveyed to Rome and beyond. The Museo Archeologico Provinciale houses many relics from this prosperous era. Virgil died in Brindisi in 19 BC.
On the Murgia plateau, in Alberobello, one can visit a number of extraordinary stone dwellings known as trulli. Circular with conical roofs (also of stone), they are similar to the nuraghi of Sardinia. Also in this area stands a unique octagonal castle, the Castel del Monte, built as a hunting lodge in the 13th century by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II (the self-styled Stupor Mundi, ‘Wonder of the World’). Both are now UNESCO-listed World Heritage Sites.

Basilicata
A remote and mainly mountainous region between Puglia and Calabria, Basilicata is heavily forested in the north around Monte Vulture, a large extinct volcano; elsewhere, the hills are flinty and barren. Many rivers flow down from the southern Appennines into the Gulf of Taranto, irrigating the fertile coastal plain behind Metaponto (birthplace of Pythagoras). The population is small. The principal town, Potenza, was almost entirely rebuilt after a severe earthquake in 1857, only to suffer a similar scale of destruction in World War II. In Matera, one can visit the extraordinary Sassi, a vast troglodyte settlement of houses and churches carved into tufa rock. Home to 15,000 residents until the 1950s, this is now a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site.

Calabria
The toe of the ‘boot’, a spectacularly beautiful region of high mountains, dense forests and relatively empty beaches. Beech, chestnut, oak and pine cover almost half of Calabria and are a rich hunting ground for mushroom enthusiasts. Porcini (boletus edulis), fresh, dried and pickled, naturally adorn the shelves of all the specialty shops of the region. Higher up in the mountains the land only sustains light grazing, but the meadows bloom with a multitude of wild flowers each spring. It is only on isolated patches of reclaimed land on the marshy coast that agriculture is possible and consequently the inhabitants are among the poorest in Italy. They are further tormented by frequent earthquakes. Some wolves still survive in the mountains, particularly in the central Sila Massifs. Catanzaro, Cosenza and Reggio Calabria, on the straits of Messina, are the major towns.
Calabria’s best beaches are on the west coast, where one finds long stretches of sand, punctuated by rocky outcrops and secluded coves. The beaches on the east coast are rockier, more rugged and less explored.

Sicily
Strategically situated between Italy and North Africa and with fertile soil and rich coastal fishing grounds, Sicily has suffered an almost continuous round of invasion for as long as history has been recorded. The Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Angevins, Aragonese, Bourbons and, most recently, the Germans (and the Allies) during World War II – all have left their mark on this unique island, the most populous in the Mediterranean. The economy is based on the production of citrus fruit, almonds, olives, vegetables, wine (including Marsala), wheat and beans, together with mining, fishing (anchovies, tuna, cuttlefish and swordfish) and the raising of sheep and goats.

Palermo
The capital, Palermo, is a splendid city in a grand style, opulent, vital and full of remarkable architecture, particularly Norman and Baroque. Notable buildings include the Cathedral, the Martorana, the Palazzo dei Normanni, San Cataldo, San Giuseppe dei Teatini and Santa Maria di Gesù churches. The catacombs at the Capuchin Monastery contain thousands of mummified bodies.

The East Coast
Catania is a spacious city dating mostly from the 18th century, having been rebuilt following a succession of earthquakes. Europe’s largest and most active volcano, Mount Etna, stands nearby and with its fine beaches the city attracts many tourists. Taormina, further up the coast, is a picturesque and immensely popular resort town. Perched on a cliff within sight of Mount Etna, it has fine beaches, a well-preserved Greek Theater, a Castle and a Cathedral, as well as a plethora of chic bars and restaurants.

Historic Sites
Sicily is littered with the remains of successive invading cultures and a full listing of important sites is beyond the scope of this entry. The most important ancient Greek sites are: the temples of the Valle dei Templi at Agrigénto, said to be better preserved than any in Greece itself; the Greek Theater at Syracuse (where there is also a Roman Amphitheater); and the vast Temple of Apollo at Selinunte. Other notable monuments include the Norman Cathedral at Monreale, containing 1.5 acres of dazzling mosaics, and the Byzantine cliff dwellings at Cava d’Ispica near Modica.

Aeolian Islands
This group of attractive small islands is popular for its crystal clear waters ideal for diving and underwater fishing, and stunning beaches of hot black sand and rocky outcrops. Lipari is the largest and most ‘touristy’ island. Panarea is smart but unspoilt. Vulcano, the closest island, and Stromboli, the most distant, are both active volcanoes. Accommodation is generally simple, although there are some excellent hotels.

Sardinia
This is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean. Much of Sardinia away from the coasts is an almost lunar landscape of crags and chasms and is largely uninhabited. The coastline is jagged and rocky, interspersed with marvelous beaches of very fine sand. In recent years there has been much investment in tourist infrastructure, particularly in the northern area known as the Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast), which has become a favorite retreat of Italian celebrities, and on the west coast near Alghero. This is the only region in Italy without motorways. The Sardinian language is closer to Latin than modern Italian is.

Cagliari
The capital stands in a marshy valley at the south of the island. It was founded by the Phoenicians and subsequently expanded by the Romans, who knew it as Carales. It is today a busy commercial port and site of most of the island’s heavy industry

Elsewhere
The only other towns of any size are Sassari, in the northwest near the resort area of Alghero; Nuoro, an agricultural town on the edge of the central massif, a good base from which to explore the interior; and Olbia, a fishing port and car-ferry terminus on the edge of the Costa Smeralda.
There are numerous Bronze Age remains throughout the islands, the best known being the nuraghi – circular (sometimes conical) stone dwellings. The largest collection of these may be found at Su Nuraxi, about 80km (50 miles) north of Cagliari.

Activities

Watersports
Italy has some 8500km (5345 miles) of coastline and remains one of Europe’s favorite destinations for beach holidays. Facilities such as sun loungers and deckchairs (which are common on Italian beaches) usually attract a small charge. All types of watersports are available at major resorts. The enduring appeal of the Italian Riviera in Liguria (a 350km-/219 mile-stretch from France to Tuscany), or of the Adriatic and Amalfi coasts, the latter known for its steeply terraced villages clinging to a rocky coastline, is witnessed by the ever-growing number of visitors. Less busy are the beaches on the islands, in Sicily, which has large sandy stretches on the southern coast, and in Sardinia, much of which is still relatively untouched. Many of Italy’s best dive sites are located in Sardinia, and Italy’s first surfing school is based in Mauro. Diving courses and equipment hire are also available on the Tremiti Islands (Puglia) in the Adriatic and along the coasts of Tuscany and Liguria. Fishing is excellent throughout Sardinian and Sicilian waters (also renowned for their healthy lobster population), while the rivers in northern Italy, Umbria and Tuscany can offer particularly scenic fishing holidays. For sea fishing, private or chartered boats can be rented. Genoa has frequent yachting regattas, as does Santa Margherita Ligura, where a canoe and small boat regatta is held in July. Sailing is popular on Italy’s five major lakes near the Alps in the north – Como, Garda, Iseo, Lugano and Maggiore.

Wintersports
The skiing infrastructure has been greatly improved in recent years, and the facilities at resorts in the Italian Alps now rival those in neighboring Austria, France and Switzerland. Ski resorts can be broadly split into four geographical areas. To the west of Turin, in the Piedmont region, major resorts include Bardonechia, Sauze d’Oulx and Sestriere. Further north, the Aosta Valley and its main resorts, such as Cervinia, Courmayeur and La Thuile, are easily reached from France (via the Mont Blanc tunnel from Chamonix) or from Switzerland (via the St Bernard tunnel). To the east, the region across the Swiss border is fairly isolated and accessible via long, winding roads which can be treacherous in bad weather. Driving can be equally difficult in the Dolomites, still further east, but the beautiful scenery more than makes up for it, helping to make this one of Italy’s prime skiing destinations; major resorts include Cortina D’Ampezzo (Italy’s most upmarket resort), Madonna di Campiglio and Selva/Sella Ronda. Skiing is also possible in Central Italy, in resorts such as Abetone (Tuscany), Campo Imperatore (Abruzzo), and in several other places in Abruzzo, down to Mount Etna in Sicily.

Horseriding
The biennial Palio bareback horse race in Siena, held on July 2 and August 16, draws thousands of spectators and has been a special event since the 14th century. One of Rome’s most prestigious events is its international horse show held in May. There is also flat racing in February at the Capanelle track. Each of the three seasons lasts two months, the second starting in May and the third in September. Trotting races take place at the Villa Gloria track in February, June to November.

Cultural holidays
Italian language and art courses are available throughout Italy. Language courses are often complemented by subjects such as cooking or architecture. Well known institutions offering a range of art courses include the Palazzo Spinelli and Università Internazionale dell’Arte in Florence; the Accademia Italia in Rome; the Centro Internazionale degli Studi per l’Insegnamento del Mosaico in Ravenna for mosaic making; and, for music courses, the Accademia Chigiana in Siena. Further information can be obtained from the Italian Cultural Institute in London (tel: (020) 7235 1461; fax: (020) 7235 4618)or the Italian State Tourist Board (see General Info section).

Other
There are first-class golf courses all over Italy, from Lombardy and Trentino in the north, through Tuscany and Lazio, down to Calabria and Sardinia where the golf season is very long, owing to the mild climate.
Italy’s most popular spectator sport is football (the national team won the World Cup in 1934, 1938 and 1982, and hosted the 1990 event, in which they finished third). The Giro d’Italia is an internationally renowned cycling race through Italy, attracting the world’s top cyclists. Motor-racing is held at the Monza autodrome near Milan (Lombardy). Bocce bowling is as traditional in Italy as it is in France, especially in small villages where it is played on Sunday after High Mass.