Buenos Aires
Argentina’s capital city is located within the Capital Federal District and forms one of the world’s largest metropolitan areas. Buenos Aires is an elegant shoppers’ paradise and cosmopolitan center that takes pride in its cultural establishments. There are now few reminders of the city’s glorious past, although the immense Catedral Metropolitana (Metropolitan Cathedral), which contains the remains of San Martín, Argentina’s liberator, is a notable exception. So is the famous Teatro Colón, the world’s largest opera house (with a capacity of 2500 seats), which occupies an entire block on the massive Avenida 9 de Julio, the city’s major thoroughfare with its Obelisco (obelisk) at the intersection with Avenida Corrientes (the traditional theater, cinema and nightlife district). Also worth a visit are the Isaac Fernández Blanco Museum of Spanish-American Art, which houses an important silverware collection and is located in a beautiful neo-colonial mansion; the Ambrosetti Museum and the Museum of Colonial History. The old artists’ quarter of La Boca, home of the tango, is located along a narrow waterway lined by meat-packing plants and warehouses. Visitors can see a tango show at one of several tango bars for approximately US$40-60. The San Telmo borough, one of the oldest parts of the city and particularly known for the Manzana de las Luces (Block of Enlightenment), has also preserved its artistic spirit. The city’s oldest church, the Jesuit Iglesia San Ignacio, is located here. San Telmo has many cafes, antique shops, tango night spots and a Sunday flea market on Plaza Dorrego. Buenos Aires’ open spaces are particularly notable in the northern part, where a succession of parks stretch for miles along the River Plate.

The Palermo neighborhood contains the Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays (Botanical Gardens), the Jardín Zoológico (zoo), the Campo de Polo (polo grounds), the Hipódromo (racetrack) and the Planetarium.
The city’s main shopping districts are located around the microcentro (north of Avenida de Mayo), which icludes popular tourist areas like the Florida and Lavalle pedestrian malls, the Plaza San Martín, and the commercial and entertainment areas of Corrientes, Córdoba and the fashionable Santa Fe. North of the microcentro is the chic and upper-class Recoleta borough, famous for its Cementerio de la Recoleta (where many members of Argentina’s élite are buried) and the renowned Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts), which has works by Renoir, Rodin, Monet, Van Gogh and numerous Argentine artists. Near the presidential palace, the neighborhood known as Puerto Madero is now in serious competition with Recoleta to become the city’s most chic quarter. Many of the port’s 19th-century warehouses and docks have been transformed into Manhattan-style lofts, expensive restaurants, trendy nightclubs, new office blocks and a university campus.
Further southeast is the Costanera Sur National Park, a nature reserve close to the banking district.

Tango dancers - Buenos Aires

Excursions
Argentina’s most important devotional site (attracting millions of pilgrims every year), is the neo-gothic Basílica Nuestra Señora de Luján (whose day is May 8), which is located 70km (43 miles) west of Buenos Aires. Around 113km (71 miles) west of the capital lies the village of San Antonio de Areco, the center of Argentina’s gaucho tradition and host to the Día de la Tradición, the country’s biggest gaucho celebration held annually in November. The village is also known for its artisans, who specialize in mate (paraphernalia), rastras (silver-studded belts) and facones (knives). The country town of Capilla del Señor can be visited on a day trip with an old historic steam train (tickets should be purchased a week in advance).

The Atlantic Coast
Mar del Plata
Located approximately 400km (250 miles) from Buenos Aires, this is the main tourist resort on the Atlantic coast. Often referred to as ’Mardel’, Mar del Plata’s sandy beaches attract thousands of visitors during the December to March season. The many grandiose mansions testify to the city’s upper-class origins. Interesting sites include the Villa Normandy (which has a distinctive French style), the Iglesia Stella Maris (a church with an impressive marble altar), the Torre Tanque (an 88m/289ft tower offering good views) and the Villa Victoria (once a literary salon). The Banquina de Pescadores is a picturesque wharf near the port with many restaurants and cafeterias. Mar del Plata is also the site of the largest gambling casino in Argentina.

Elsewhere
Other well-known resorts on the Atlantic coast include Villa Gezell, Pinamar, Miramar and Necochea, the latter being well known for the Parque Miguel Lillo, a large green space beside the beach, whose pine woods are popular for cycling and riding. New resorts are constantly springing up along this stretch of coastline. Most can offer deep-sea fishing and watersports.
Further south, some 650km (407 miles) from Buenos Aires, lies Bahía Blanca, the largest southern city, whose massive port makes it one of the country’s major commercial centers.

The Pampas
The area known as the Pampas consists mostly of flat agricultural land and contains the provinces of Buenos Aires and La Pampa as well as parts of Santa Fe and Córdoba. The area is well known for its horse-breeding tradition and cattle ranches.

La Plata
Located 56km (35 miles) southeast of Buenos Aires, La Plata is the capital of the Buenos Aires Province and an important administrative, commercial and cultural center. It has one of the country’s best universities.
South of La Plata lies the Sierra de la Ventana, whose scenic peaks attract many hikers and climbers. One of the most popular peaks for climbing excursions is the Cerro de la Ventana (1136m/3408ft), which is located within the Ernesto Tornquist Provincial Park.

Santa Fe
The capital of the Santa Fe Province is linked to Paraná, capital of the Entre Ríos Province, via a tunnel beneath the River Paraná (see below). Mainly important as an agricultural and industrial center, Santa Fe’s colonial past is still visible in its streets and squares, though there are also many modern buildings. The nearby city of Rosario, on the west bank of the River Paraná, was where the Argentinian flag was first raised and its biggest attraction is the impressive, boat-shaped Monumento Nacional a la Bandera (Monument to the Flag). La Semana de la Bandera (Flag Week) is celebrated annually in June. Nearby is the town of Rufino, an important center for cattle raising. Walking and trekking are popular in the Lihue Calel National Park, an area consisting mostly of desert, located some 226km (142 miles) southwest of the city of Santa Rosa, and known for its pink granite rock formations (reaching up to 600m/1968ft).

Misiones, El Chaco & Mesopotamia
The Misiones Province has a subtropical climate and is nearly surrounded by Paraguay and Brazil. It is most famous for its Jesuit missions and the spectacular Iguazú Falls. El Chaco is a sparsely populated area of nature reserves and parks. Mesopotamia usually refers to the area between the Paraná and Uruguay rivers and comprises the provinces of Entre Ríos and Corrientes.

Posadas
The capital of the Misiones Province is joined to Paraguay by a modern bridge. The province is well known for its old Jesuit missions, and the most impressive Jesuit ruins can be visited at San Ignacio Miní, some 50km (32 miles) east of Posada. Jesuit carvings and art are on display at Posada’s Museo Regional. The gigantic Yacyreta Dam lies 200km (125 miles) upstream from Posada.

Iguazú Falls
Puerto Iguazú is the gateway to the majestic Iguazú Falls (parts of which are located in neighboring Brazil). The falls are located within the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Iguazú National Park, whose subtropical rainforest provides a habitat for over 2000 identified plant species and 400 bird species (for details of hiking trails, see the Activities section). The Iguazú Falls are formed by the River Paraná which, before reaching the edge, divides into many channels. The most impressive of these is the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), which can be approached via a system of catwalks (some of which may occasionally be closed owing to flooding). At their highest point, the falls have a vertical drop more than one and a half times the full length of Niagara Falls. Visitors can catch a good view of the falls from a tower near the visitor center, which also organizes free trips to the Isla San Martín, another good lookout point from which to catch an extensive and crowd-free view.

Iguazu falls - Argentina-Brazil

El Chaco
The capital of the Chaco Province is Resistencia, which prides itself on being a ’city of sculptures’ (there are over 200 of them), and is a major crossroads for Paraguay and excursions through the Chaco to the northwest. The Chaco National Park is a large expanse of swamps, grasslands, palm savannahs and forest, which is rarely visited as camping is the only available accommodation. Interesting nature reserves within the area include Estricta Colonia Benitez (in eastern Chaco) and the Pampa del Indio Provincial Park. Campo del Cielo is an area famous for its meteorite fragments dating back some 6000 years.

Formosa
The capital of Formosa Province is a good starting point for excursions to the northern Chaco. Interesting buildings in the city include the Casa de Gobierno, which has been declared a national monument. Apart from Formosa’s annual week-long Fiesta del Río (a nocturnal religious procession), one of the main regional attractions is the massive Río Pilcomayo National Park, an area of swamps, marshland and savannah on the Paraguayan border, whose Laguna Blanca is an ideal spot for birdwatching.

Corrientes
Corrientes, the capital of its namesake province, is one of Argentina’s oldest cities. The General Belgrano Bridge over the Paraná River joins the city to Resistencia, the capital of the Chaco Province (see above). Among Corrientes’ oldest churches, the Santísima Cruz de los Milagros and the Convento de San Francisco are worth a visit. In the north of the province lies the Esteros del Iberá, an area of marshland, lagoons and lakes providing a refuge for hundreds of bird species, reptiles and mammals such as swamp deer and capibara (the world’s largest rodent). There are numerous remains of Jesuit settlements in the vicinity, notably at Yapeyú, the birthplace of José de San Martín. Cattle ranches (estancia) can be visited at San Gará, Atalaya and San Juan Poriahú. Well known for its fiestas and carnivals, the Corrientes is also the land of the chamamé, a characteristic type of rhythmic music derived from the polka, celebrated in the annual National Chamamé Festival.

Paraná
The capital of the Entre Ríos Province can be reached from Santa Fe via the Hernandarias Tunnel under the River Paraná. East of Paraná, near the border with Uruguay, Concepción del Uruguay has numerous spas and river beaches (on the River Uruguay), notably at Banco Pelay and Itapo. The nearby city of Gualeguaychu is famous for its carnival, which rivals those of Rio and Bahía in Brazil. Further north, some 360km (225 miles) from Buenos Aires, lies the El Palmar National Park, whose main attractions are the old yatay palms, some of which are nearly 800 years old.

Córdoba, Mendoza & the Andes
Córdoba
Located on the bank of the River Primero, Córdoba has preserved much of its colonial past and character. Some of the most interesting colonial buildings include El Cabildo (the Town Hall) and the Casa del Obispo Mercadillo. One of the best streets in which to see colonial buildings is the Calle Obispo Trejos. Also worth seeing are the churches of the Compañía de Jésus, San Francisco and San Roque. Argentina’s first university, the Universidad Nacional de Córdoba was founded here. The scenic mountain hinterland known as the Sierras de Córdoba is dotted with colonial hermitages and tourist towns: Cosquín hosts an annual folklore festival and la Falda is a popular resort for excursions to the Sierra Chica. Around Córdoba, numerous Jesuit churches can be visited: Alta Gracia, 35km (22 miles) southwest of the city, is one of the best known. Also of interest is the town of Jesús María, which hosts the Fiesta Nacional de Doma y Folklore, an annual celebration of gaucho horsemanship and customs.

Mendoza
The Mendoza Province is Argentina’s main wine-producing region and the annual grape harvest festival, the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia, is held in the provincial capital, Mendoza, at the end of February and the beginning of March. Founded in 1521, Mendoza is characterized by tree-lined streets and a large network (some 500km/32 miles) of irrigation channels. The Andes mountain ranges can be seen in the distance from many parts of the city, whose universities, museums, theaters and art galleries testify to a lively cultural life. Interesting museums include the Museo Sanmartiniano (for history) and the Museo Popular Callejero (architecture). Most wineries near Mendoza offer tours and tasting. Some of the province’s main wine cellars are located in San Rafael. Near the border with Chile lies the famous Mount Aconcagua (6995m/22,944ft), the highest mountain in the Western hemisphere, located within the Aconcagua National Park. A good starting point for exploring the area is Uspallata, located in a serene valley surrounded by mountains. Some of the best ski resorts can be found at las Leñas (one of Argentina’s most prestigious winter sports resorts, open from June to October), the Valles del Plata and los Penitentes. Also worth visiting is the striking Puente del Inca, a natural stone bridge over the River Mendoza; and Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer), a famous monument in the high Andes, nearly 4000m (13,120ft) above sea level, offering magnificent views.

San Juan
San Juan, capital of the San Juan Province was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1944. Today, the city is characterized by wide, tree-lined streets and fairly modern buildings. Around 60km (38 miles) southeast from here, the small town of Vallecita attracts large numbers of pilgrims who come to visit the famous Difunta Correa shrine (with the busiest times being around Easter and Christmas). The city of Agustín del Valle Fértil is a good base for excursions to the Ischigualasto National Park, a desert valley also referred to as ’the valley of the moon’, owing to its distinctive rock formations and fossils dating back some 180 million years.

The Andean Northwest
Jujuy
The capital of Jujuy Province, San Salvador de Jujuy, was once a stopover for colonial mule traders. It has an interesting Indian market, the Mercado del Sur and, at Termas de Reyes, thermal baths overlooking the scenic canyon of the River Reyes. North of the city lie the colorful dry landscapes of the Quebrada de Humahuaca and its isolated peasant villages. The indigenous village of Purmamarca is surrounded by the Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colors), whose layers show different geological periods. Further up stands the Paleta del Pintor (Painter’s Pallet), named after its view of the multi-colored surrounding mountains. The Calilegua National Park lies on the province’s eastern border. It has abundant birdlife, some dense subtropical cloud forest and offers good views of the Gran Chaco from Mount Hermoso (3600m/11,808ft).

Salta
The city of Salta, capital of Salta Province, is reputed to have the best preserved colonial architecture in Argentina. The most significant buildings are grouped around the central square, including the Cathedral, the Cabildo (Town Hall) – which houses the Museo Histórico del Norte, the Museo Colonial and the Museo de Bellas Artes – and the Iglesia San Francisco. The province is well known for its spectacular train journey, el Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds), which ascends the Quebrada del Toro and climbs up to the puna (plateau). The climax of the trip is the crossing of the la Polvorilla viaduct (4182m/13,716ft above sea level). Around 100km (63 miles) south of Salta, the Quebrada de Cafayete is a landscape of barren sandstone known for its distinctive formations, such as the Garganta de Diablo (Devil’s Throat). Surrounding Cafayete are many vineyards, which flourish in the warm, dry and sunny climate. Los Cardones National Park is known for its large cacti (cardó), reaching heights of up to 6m (20ft).

Tucumán
Another Andean province offering green valleys with subtropical vegetation surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Within the Tafí Valley lies the Parque de los Menhires, named after its interesting collection of stones decorated by Tafí Indians. Also worth a visit are the ruins at Quilmes, an ancient fortified citadel built by Quilme Indians.

Catamarca
This province is flanked by the Sierra del Colorado in the west and the Sierra Graciana in the east, with San Fernando del Valle del Catamarca being the provincial capital. The region is popular for hiking, trekking and horseback riding tours to the surrounding mountains.

Santiago del Estero
The provincial capital of Santiago del Estero Province, named after the province, is the country’s oldest city, with numerous churches and old colonial buildings. The province is renowned for its spas and warm thermal pools, the most popular being at Río Hondo and las Aguas del Sol.

La Rioja
This province has a large variety of mountains, canyons, gorges and red-earthed plains. The Talampaya Canyon is one of its most famous natural attractions, owing mostly to its peculiar rock formations. The town of Nonogasta has many vineyards and wine cellars open to visitors. La Puerta de Talampaya is well known for its petroglyphs.

Patagonia
Comprising the provinces of Río Negro, Neuquén, Chubut and Santa Cruz, Patagonia – the southernmost portion of South America (located in both Argentina and Chile) – is a vast region with numerous parks and nature reserves. The Patagonian coast is home to large herds of seals, sea lions, blue whales and thousands of penguins.

Río Negro
One of the best-known resorts in the southern Lake District is San Carlos de Bariloche, which is surrounded by lakes, glaciers and forested mountains and which has both modern tourist amenities such as shopping areas and casinos, as well as hiking, mountaineering and picnic sites. Skiing is possible in Gran Catedral, a well-known resort with modern facilities. The nearby Nahuel Huapi National Park contains the massive Nahuel Huapi Lake, stretching over 100km (63 miles) to the border with Chile. Within the lake area lies the Isla Victoria, a natural sanctuary, which can be reached by private or organized boat trips. Traveling south, a road through spectacular scenery, passing the shores of three lakes, leads to El Bolsón, 130km (82 miles) from Bariloche, known for its hops and fruit orchards. The Feria Artesanal, a market held in El Bolsón on Saturday (and on Thursday during summer), provides a good opportunity to sample local dishes. Possible excursions within the area include the trail to the Cabeza del Indio, a rock formation resembling the ’noble savage’, with good views of the Río Azul and Lago Puelo en route.

Nequén
The town of Junín de los Andes is well known for trout fishing and offers good access to the Lanín National Park (see below). Nearby San Martín de los Andes, located on Lake Lácar, is close to one of Argentina’s main winter sports destinations in Cerro Chapelco. San Martín is connected to Bariloche by a scenic road (also called ’the route of the seven lakes’), leading past spectacular lakes and through a landscape of snow-capped mountains, waterfalls and gigantic trees. The region’s principal attraction is the Lanín National Park, a fairly untouched area dominated by the extinct, snow-capped Volcán Lanín (3776m/12,386ft), and characterized by rare plant and animal species (including raulí, a type of beech, and pehuén, the monkey puzzle tree). On the northern shore of Nahuel Huapi National Park (see above) lies Villa la Angostura, a resort whose main interest is the nearby Los Arrayanes National Park.
Located on the Quetrihué peninsula (connected to Angostura by an isthmus), this park is best known for the El Bosque de Arrayanes, a forest of arrayán (cinnamon-barked) trees, many of which are over 100 years old. The Siete Lagos scenic road connects the park to San Martín de los Andes (see above).

Chubut
Puerto Madryn, founded by Welsh settlers, is a popular base for excursions to the nearby wildlife sanctuary at the Península Valdes nature reserve in Chubut Province, where large numbers of sea lions, elephant seals and penguins frequent the beaches. Further north, the Isla de los Pájaros bird sanctuary is home to cormorants, flamingos and egrets. A number of trails and spots in the area provide opportunities for observing colonies of sea lions and elephant seals, notably at Punta Delgada, in the sheltered bay of Caleta Valdés, below the cliffs of Punta Loma and the nature reserves of Punta Norte and Punta Pirámide – the latter also being the main base for whale-sighting trips to the Gulf of San José; the best time to see whales is from August to December. The Punta Tombo reserve is known for its vast colonies of Magellanic penguins (around half a million of which use the reserve as a breeding ground from September to April). Further south, near the sunny town of Esquel, is los Alerces National Park, which protects vast stretches of the tall and long-lived (400 years) alerce conifer trees.

Santa Cruz
One of the province’s main attractions is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed los Glaciares National Park, an area of great natural beauty, with rugged mountains and numerous glacial lakes, including Lake Argentino. Accessible from the busy tourist town of El Calafate, the park’s centerpiece is the Moreno Glacier, one of the earth’s few advancing glaciers. Huge icebergs calve and topple into Lake Argentino at the so-called Canal de los Témpanos (Iceberg Channel), and there are nearby catwalks and platforms from which to observe this event. It is also possible to visit the Upsala Glacier via a boat trip from Puerto Bandera along Lake Onelli and past floating icebergs.

Tierra del Fuego
Over half of this remote southern province belongs to Chile. Tierra del Fuego is the gateway to the Antarctic.

Ushuaia
The provincial capital is the world’s most southernmost city, located in a dramatic setting, with jagged glacial peaks rising from sea level to nearly 1500m (4920ft). The Museo del Fin del Mundo (Museum of the End of the World) has exhibits dedicated to the Indians, nature, local history and the many shipwrecks that happened in the area. The nearby Martial is within walking distance and yields spectacular views of the city and the Beagle Channel. The city of Río Grande is mostly a petroleum service center facing the South Atlantic and, though of no particular interest, the surrounding countryside offers good hiking opportunities (particularly around the Garibaldi Pass, where lenga tree forests show striking displays of red leaves during autumn). Some 18km (12 miles) west of Ushuaia, the Tierra del Fuego National Park, Argentina’s only coastal national park, comprises rivers, lakes, forests and glaciers.
Ushuaia is also a major port for cruises departing to the Antarctic. Day-trips to Antartica, costing US$630 including return flights, lunch, and a tour, are possible from Malvinas Argentina International Airport.

Tierra de fuego - Argentina

Activities

Trekking
Argentina’s vast landscapes, alpine parks, lakes and deserts offer spectacular opportunities for walking and trekking. The best trekking areas are the Andean Lake District, the Sierras de Córdoba, the Sierra de la Ventana (in Buenos Aires province) and Patagonia, a huge and sparsely populated region, dotted with glaciers and lakes, and home to several of Argentina’s most popular national parks (see the Where to Go section). One of the most popular tourist towns for starting excursions to the area is El Calafate.

Mountaineering
The Wild West frontier town of El Chaltén is a popular starting point for mountaineering trips to the Fitzroy Range. Good climbing is also possible at Aconcagua (near Mendoza) and the Sierra de la Ventana (for experienced climbers only).

Skiing
There is excellent skiing on the eastern slopes of the Andes, with an increasing number of ski resorts and runs. The season is generally from May to September. Bariloche is the oldest, most established and best-equipped ski resort. The runs at San Antonio, San Bernado, La Canaleta, Puente del Inca and Las Cuevas on the border of Argentina and Chile also offer exciting skiing. Other resorts include Caviahue, Cerro Bayo, Cerro Chapelco, Vallecitos, las Leñas and Esquel. Visitors are advised to book accommodation in advance.

Watersports
The rivers descending from the Andean ranges are attracting an increasing number of whitewater rafting enthusiasts. Some of the most popular include Río Mendoza and Río Diamante (Cuyo region); Río Limay and Río Manso (near Bariloche); and Río Hua Hum and Río Meliquina (near San Martín de los Andes). Swimming can be enjoyed in rivers, lakes and small resorts along the Atlantic coast; water-skiing along the San Antonio River in the Tigre Delta Region; scuba diving in Patagonia; yachting and boating along the River Plate; and fishing on the Atlantic coast off the piers. Freshwater fishing (for trout and salmon) is particularly good along the Paraná River and in Argentina’s many artificial lakes.

Other
By far the most popular spectator sport is football, which is followed obsessively throughout the country. Palermo Park in Buenos Aires has a golf course as well as public and professional polo grounds. The polo season is from October to December. Rugby is also practiced by the immigrant population.